great job!!!!!
engine swaps like this can take forever but you pulled it off pretty dang fast!!!!
well done.
that intake looks great in there too.
BTW the CP3's are not timed...I thought I read somewhere that you could tweak something with the mounting bolts or drive gear but I cant remember where??? but if you look in the book it will tell you they can NOT be timed.
again great job

 

Very impressive!!
So when do we get to see some video?
Even better, when do we get to see your Excursion featured in a diesel magazine?

 

Well, first things first. I need to get the gauges in. Also need to get my battery tray built so I can get the second battery installed (it gets cold here and we are going to need it). Steering box leak needs fixed. Need to come up with a tach signal. My Smarty should be here friday so I can ensure I don't have any codes set. Also needs a head stud re-torque soon. At some point I'll get some nice finished pictures and even some video.

 

Awesome man you need to get that in a magazine!

 

I am totally impressed and yes I could tell all the way through the article that you had obviously researched this a lot and then some. I didn't see anything on engine and trans mounts. What did you do there?
Very nice, I wish I had your energey level to tackle something like this in that amount of time with your really cool (literally) garage.

 

I used the quad engine mounts from Autoworld. Very beefy, probably not necessary though. I believe if you use the standard mounts, you don't have to move the ECM off the block (and make it much easier to install).

I got all the gauges installed last night and work great. I'll get a picture taken, the four gauges are mounted up above the rearview mirror.

Next up is wiring the dataport, so I can get my Smarty hooked up when it gets here hopefully tomorrow.

Maybe friday I can get the power steering box leak fixed and also get the AC line modified and put in.

I have no experience really with a 3rd gen dodge and an aftermarket torque convertor. I assume since it is more efficienct (less slipping), that when you shift to drive or reverse it is normal to have to hold the break pretty good to keep from moving? Either that or it is idling higher than normal. No tach yet, so I don't know what the idling rpms are. I seem to remember someone else having this problem and it was due to no vehicle speed signal to the ECM, I'll have to look into that...

 

What are you going to do to get the tach working? I bought something from Dakota Digital but have not hooked it up yet. They told me it would work to get the signal from the Cummins and convert it to the V10 instrument cluster. I hope to try hooking it up soon, but the way you have been going you will get yours working before mine.

 

The cummins ECM has an output of the crankshaft position signal, not sure of the voltages, but it should be a pulsed output (60 teeth on tone wheel) so 60 pulses per revolution of the crank. Hopefully I can do something with this to get it to work. Do you have any idea what sort of signal the V10 cluster is expecting for the tach? What does the dakota digital device provide for an output?

 

i honestly gotta say this is an amazing build. i wish i had the time and the patience and also the money wouldn't hurt to do something like this.


good job!!!!!!

 

what an awesome project!

 

This is the unit that I bought. I called them told them what I was doing and this is what they said I needed. I do hope to be trying it soon.
You can also check out the installation manual to see what you need to make it work.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd127.htm

 

It looks great, and it didn't even take you much time to get it done, 5.9ex! It should be a great vehicle!

 

One cool swap you deff got some wrenching skill cant wait for some vids.

 

Got the dataport wired up yesterday. Plugged my Smarty in to read codes. Cleared them all. Went for a drive, only 4 codes now. Two related to fuel level sensor (not hooked up), one for no VIN number in the ECM, and one for a J1850 ckt short to ground.

Getting a VIN number put in here in a little while (thanks to ebay). I'm hoping the other code (J1850) will go away with it. I don't have any idea what it is about. P1652 is the code.

Looked at all the sensor readings with a DRB scanner earlier today. Everything looks like it is working fine. Idle fuel rail pressure was 5600 psi, rev'd it up and it got to 16,000 psi. Seems to be working ok. Fan speed was being displayed, coolant temp, rpms (idle was 750) I must have got the wiring done right I guess.

Currently wiring up some LEDs so I can watch when the intake heaters are on.

 

Got the VIN # put in the ECM to clear up that code. Now I just have code P1652 to worry about.

I also have no self control, so I loaded smarty SW#2 already. Nice increase in power.

We have snow on the ground and my ABS isn't working at the moment. Let's just say my torque convertor makes it tough to not push the front end around when trying to stop on the snow/ice