SpLaT

me too Festus... thanks

Festus

All PM's sent.

If anyone wants, I can talk to my contact and see what she can do if there were multiple orders. I'd probably lean to letting her know that some folks may be calling and mentioning my name. Deal direct with her. Likely, she'd want a few near guaranteed sales though.


The things I'm going to have to do for you guys.

Lil Dog

Festus is the hook up guy! Thanks for the lightforce contact again!

Lil Dog

Exactly. Not having to drive up on the lawn at the local motel helps alot, not to mention you have to try and plug in with 30 other trucks. Now I have heat everywhere I go. Not to mention for winter safety, you could be parked on the side of a closed highway for a month with a full tank of fuel!..

Festus

No problem. Where did we get those from again? I lost.....er....misplaced my receipt. Now, hook me up with a young lady where I don't feel like I'm taking one for the team!
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Although I haven't actually strung it out, I doubt (by calibrated eye measurement) that they provide enough fuel line for a MegaCab to make it to the top of the fuel tank to use their fandangled fitting to splice into the OEM fuel return line.

I may have to splice into the return line on the frame rail. So, now which one is the return line - top or bottom? Easiest way to cut the hard line? What kind of 'T' fitting do I need to do this and where can I locally get it - Home Depot?

On top of all of this, my AD150 is right next to where this thing is supposed to mount - enough room? Who knows? I have to test fit to make sure. In addition, I cannot see how one is supposed to route that heater hose around the back of the engine, over top of the transmission, and then down with a hard 90* along the frame to tie into the unit without it kinking somewhere - that hose is pretty soft walled.

Maybe it's just me, but in order to do the routing being mindful of the manifold, exhaust, and hose chaffing..........it's gonna get a kink in the hose somewhere without any 90* brass elbows to take those corners.

I already know I have to extend the (3) wires to the back of the 7-day timer. I test fit my harness and the wires don't even make it to the backside of the dash nevermind anywhere actually useful in putting the timer.

I swear these install kits are designed just to get you out the door and only work properly for 6-8 months before something fails and they can then sell shop time to fix it.

Always some customizing to do if you want it right.

Tate

Yours is the "plug and play" dodge kit? Mine is a universal kit. Had to terminate all the connections, and there was ample wiring for it all. I mounted the heater today in the 12v, I will actually need less hose than I did on the dually. Never had a problem with kinking, although the only tight bends were the preformed bends in the line for exiting the heater. There was quite a bit extra fuel line for mine as well, and my truck would be the same length as yours. I'm leaving the old fuel line and dip tube in the dually, hopefully Cummins will call me back about new ones for the 12v.

I wouldn't try and get fuel from the return line. I imagine the volume in that line is not very large, and you run the risk of sucking air from the tank. Theres probably an open fitting on the AD that is on the suction side of the pump, so it would be a direct line to the tank.

Festus

Right on the instructions "DODGE RAM Aftermarket Kit / Diesel Fuel Heater / 2003 MY - 2006 MY".

I've already test fitted hose "D" (motor outlet hose, 90'd to back of engine) is about 8" too long. My wires are terminated, but there is no way they're long enough to make it from the firewall to the back of the dash, nevermind enough to mount the timer in the indent in front of my shifter.

I have to give them a shout tomorrow - too many things are not right.

Tate, I'll also have to check my AD documentation / give them a call, but I don't recall having any ports on the suction side of it. I could probably cut the suction hose and throw a 'T' into it. The hoses are also going to end up really close to my down pipe - I think there may be less room in these 3rd gens with the cab forward design over the 2nd gens - this is why I'm looking at 90* fittings to keep the hoses away.

Festus

It is in!! Works like a hot darn - installation was modified slightly . Just gotta do something about the exhaust though.

1-5-3-6-2-4

got a new fuel tank and a diesel sender without pump. installed espar drawtube.

Dr. Evil

If you think you like it now - wait till its -30...


BTW, there is a muffler available,,,,

Tate

Muffler should have been included, mine was. Sounds like a mini jet engine without it.

Got mine in today as well. I got the fuel line kit from Cummins, $120! It gave me 2m of fuel line, the dip tube and a couple hose connectors. The worst part was, the fuel line was too short (and thats on a reg cab install!), and the fuel lines wouldn't come off the fuel tank anyhow, so I used the aux. pickup in the tank. We'll see how it goes. If worse comes to worse, I'll lift the box off again and install the dip tube when I have some patience for those stock fuel line connections. Those things are a PITA!

Darryl&Rita

Umm. Tate. Any word on your hook-up contact? Priced a remote start, and want to get another hydronic.

Festus

Muffler was not included. The noise doesn't bother me. It is just the fact that it is on the frame rail. I wouldn't mind finding someone to put a nipple on my truck exhaust for me and clamp it onto that - noise will be reduced once it hits 4" pipe even if I really don't care about it now. Good luck for that on a Sunday. Maybe some 1" pipe, hacksaw, drill & bit, and some JB weld.......

I picked up a 3/8" Street 'T' from Red L and tied my fuel line to the suction side of my AD - there wasn't enough fuel line in the kit to make it to the top of my tank anyway (running the line properly of course).

I did have to slide the Dog back about 2.5" to accommodate the Espar mounting bracket.

I extended the wires, along with running the diagnostic wire in the harness. I was able to get the timer in front of my stick in the indentation in the lower dash - taking the dash apart in these newer trucks is not fun to figure out the first time. While doing that, I relocated my brake controller there as well - so nice to drive without the toe of your boot hitting the back of the controller every time taking foot off accelerator.

I did one other thing. I insulated the coolant lines right from the heater to the engine compartment. Two reasons: 1) I figure it will retain heat better resulting in less fuel consumption as the heater won't have to be on high as much to maintain temperature. Thus saving battery power and protecting the lines from my exhaust elbow as well. 2) The insulation will provide protection from chaffing on rough roads.

I should do custom installs and charge huge dollars for it. For some reason, I rarely have issues when deviating from what they say in a booklet.

The aftermarket install kit is certainly the bare minimum.

Festus

Update: Muffler is not required in my opinion. I have no idea what they charge for a muffler, but it is probably not cheaper than tapping into your truck exhaust. Mine truck is straight piped and it's quieter now than the heater itself.

Additionally, there is no longer a kerosene smell when jumping into the cab.

Dr. Evil

I wouldnt mind checking that out Festus...