ABDTR #5 Alberta Chapter #5 Discussion

Espar, Proheat, Webasto..........

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Old 12-16-2009, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Doj Dewd
oh yeah tate - the rubber holder for the fuel pump. you put the pump in the rubber holder - was it quite tight in there? i just thought about it and it is mounted vertically - any chance of it sliding/vibrating out? or was it quite a snug fit?
Its a pretty good fit in there. If I remember right, it is bottomed out in there now, so it can't go any further than I stuffed it in there.

I'm also curious about the vertical mounting issue. But like Jason said, it wouldn't be hard to turn it to a 70 degree angle. It just fits and looks much nicer straight up.
Old 12-16-2009, 09:39 AM
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The reason being, is that it is a solenoid fuel pump, not a rotary, and the angle of the pump has an effect on how much it fuels. In fact we quite often use just the angle of the pump to fine tune for different altitude applications.
Old 12-16-2009, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Tate
Its a pretty good fit in there. If I remember right, it is bottomed out in there now, so it can't go any further than I stuffed it in there.

I'm also curious about the vertical mounting issue. But like Jason said, it wouldn't be hard to turn it to a 70 degree angle. It just fits and looks much nicer straight up.
alrite sounds good. maybe i'll check it tomorrow when it's nice and toasty warm out!!! i might rotate it while i'm at it . . . . and bleed the heater.

does it need to be bled if no more codes pop up?
Old 12-16-2009, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dvst8r
The reason being, is that it is a solenoid fuel pump, not a rotary, and the angle of the pump has an effect on how much it fuels. In fact we quite often use just the angle of the pump to fine tune for different altitude applications.
well, had no idea it was that finicky . . .

i'll rotate it to 45 degree angle if that's what recommended then.
Old 12-16-2009, 11:57 PM
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Who needs an Espar in these temps??
Old 12-17-2009, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Who needs an Espar in these temps??
yeah, no kidding - hey, does espar make an auxiliary A/C unit too ??
Old 12-17-2009, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Doj Dewd
dr. -

i highly recommend flushing/cleaning your cooling system prior to replacing the heater core. i flushed my system with the cummins/fleetgaurd product and then followed that with a heater core replacement.
Ok, so which way do you flush the core? backwards? forward? or does it matter?
Old 12-17-2009, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Ok, so which way do you flush the core? backwards? forward? or does it matter?
i flushed the entire system. i used a fleetguard product from cummins. it is called 'Restore Plus'.

if disconnecting and flushing just the core, i would flush both ways.

if your coolant system hasn't been flushed in a while then i would just do the whole system flush.

i drained the old coolant and then flushed with water/garden hose until relatively clear. i then drained the water and added 'Restore Plus' as per directions and then topped up with water to full level. i then ran the truck at operating temp for an hour or two/as per directions (ran errands and took a short hwy trip). i then drained the cleaner flush/water mixture and ran the truck with the driver side rad hose disconnected at the rad. i ran the garden hose into rad and slipped shop-vac hose over loose end pf upper rad hose. i let the truck run with the water flowing until most of the suds stopped coming out. drained it again. added appropriate amount of concentrated coolant and then topped off with water.

i did not backflush the system - i think the cleaner works fine on its own. if i was just flushing the core i would flush both ways. but why clean the core without cleaning the rest of the system - it will migrate to the heater core again . . .
Old 12-17-2009, 10:38 PM
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Thanks Jason. I have heat today since its warmed up 45 degrees C.

Will probably hold off on changing the core and try to flush it. But I will have to find a shop to do that.
Old 12-17-2009, 10:43 PM
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i was fortunate enough to have a shop. it would have been real crappy doing it in cold weather.

i would recommend going to rona or home depot and getting some fitting/hose to adapt from a garden hose to the upper rad inlet. this will save a lot of water spillage. i would also recommend finding a hose to adapt to the rad end of the upper rad hose . . .
Old 12-18-2009, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Thanks Jason. I have heat today since its warmed up 45 degrees C.

Will probably hold off on changing the core and try to flush it. But I will have to find a shop to do that.
My cousin-in-law owns a shop Doc. Let me know if you want the contact info and me to make a call.
Old 01-20-2010, 11:28 AM
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If any of you guys, and Daniella (I think she has an Espar) are interested I now have a PDF that shows how to clear most codes from the 7 day timer. Let me know if you want it and I will forward it to you.
Old 01-20-2010, 11:31 AM
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Has anyone serviced their espar heater yet?

Mine keeps 'flaming out'...i think. don't have the 7 day timer to read codes...
makes lots of white smoke when it flames out-but sometimes will re-ignite, sometime it wont...

Just want to know if it is really a difficult thing or not..
Old 01-20-2010, 01:58 PM
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I have not done anything to service mine but its throwing a code now and wont run, so it looks like I have no choice but to service it.

Im not sure what it costs but there is a code reader available. You really should have the timer though.

Brett can correct me if Im wrong but I would think you have an issue with the glow pin. (due to the white smoke). You could try running it on kerosene for 45 minutes and see if that cleans it up.


Or give James at Espar a call....1-800-387-4800 x2282
Old 01-20-2010, 02:17 PM
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I would guess with the white smoke it would either be the screen, or you have some crap in the intake or exhaust. Most glow pins either work or they don't, though the odd one is just weak and causes similar symptoms.

Code readers are pricey. Most people suffice with the 7 day timer.


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