dvst8r

The washer fluid install, was done on a Japanese import diesel. I don't think he has ever been harassed about it, but then again, it isn't a work truck. Most people would just see a washer fluid tank, and not think twice about it, as it looked very factory.

For my Jetta, I am going to Tig up a little aluminum canister. I would like it to be ~5L's but we will see how much extra room I can come up with.

Doj Dewd

your welcome. haha we should have just filled our cups befoe leaving Taco Bell and then we would have had some mix!

i'm sure i will like it very much - as long as everything works as it is supposed to. looking forward to some clear window, warm cab, and warm engine!

Festus

This past weekend's windy temperatures out in Lloyd and just East into Sask were a true test for the Espar. It got a workout for sure. I love it!

Even with the super cold fuel, the Espar fired up like nothing. Fuel was darn thick too - I normally run ~18psi in pressure and it was down to ~10 psi. My fuel heater was bypassed with he AD install.

These should be standard on these trucks.

Dr. Evil

No doubt. I ran mine this morning for the first time in awhile -> it was -35 at my place, my wait to start light was on for less than 4 seconds and the temp gauge was moving when I was about 3 minutes from the house.


For those that may be curious about fuel consumption - my D4 ran for and hour and a half and it used very close to a litre of fuel

Now, who wants to tackle replacing my heater core??

Doj Dewd

how did you measure that Dr. ?? Or just going by the numbers in the book? Or do you have an auxiliary tank . . .


on a side note. went to fire up the cummins this morning and was excited to do so with the espar being new and all. TRUCK WAS DEAD!!! I must have run it too much prior to shutting down on SUnday night. I ran a bunch of errands on Sunday - but kept the espar running with truck off while i was in and out of places. I was only making short trips with the truck and i'm guessing it never ran enough to give me a full charge to the batt's. I also left the fan on #2 as it was **** cold last nite. I think the combination was just too much for the batteries to handle.

What do you guys think? is that my issue, or is all that stuff insignificant? I guess i'll find out over the next day or two . . . i have the trickle charger on tonight to ensure i start with fresh/fully charged batteries. the timer had 'F14" on the display - i'm guessing that means low voltage??

Doj Dewd

dr. -

i highly recommend flushing/cleaning your cooling system prior to replacing the heater core. i flushed my system with the cummins/fleetgaurd product and then followed that with a heater core replacement.

i noticed NO difference in heat output with the core change after the flush. the flush made a huge difference and i'm pretty sure (in hindsight) that it cleaned out the heater core quite well. plus - i ended up with a tiny leak to boot!!

Dr. Evil

Im running the diesel in a 2L auxilliary pop bottle mounted next to my battery...



Not sure what the F14 code is off the top of my head...but you have to leave your fan on the lowest setting. Also, how long did you run the heater this morning? I never run mine the full 2 hours - you dont need that. I ran about an hour and a quarter. Mainly because I want to make sure I have enough juice to crank it over. Ive leaner this the hard way - I lost two trips out of Hanna to the big city before I figured that out.

When its cold like this I have been setting up my timer and plug the truck in for 2-3 hours before the Espar kicks on - yes, overkill but this 12V is a cold blooded animal and I need to get to work.

You will likely need even less run time on the Espar since you probably have a D5 with better heat output.

Anyway, thats my 2 cents worth.

Anyone else have any tips?

Dr. Evil

Hmm, I wonder if I can straighten my garden hose out... This probably wont work very good in the second coldest place on the planet.



Would like to try this - just not sure where Id be able to....

Doj Dewd

thanx for the info doc.

i'll cut down the runtime for the many mornings to come. i have the trickle on tonite, but after toniite i'll have to cross my fingers and do some testing!!!

dvst8r

F14 is "possible overheating detected", it is normally when there is insufficient coolant flow. Being that this is a new install, there may still be air in the system, there is a bleed screw on the Espar unit, I would check that, and attempt to burp the system.

F11 is Under voltage.

Even with dual batteries I would NEVER put the fan on more then low. Even on low it will draw as many amps as the Espar unit does on start up.

Starting batteries, which are found in most vehicles, have a great ability to flow a high amount of current a few times (I.e Starting a car... ), then they need to be charged. They however have a very low capacity for continual small draw, and as such have a low amp/hr rating.

A deep cycle marine style battery (I.e you would use for an electric trolling motor), has a very high capacity for a small continuous draw, and as such a high amp/hr rating, but does not do a good job producing high load currents very many times.

Sorry if I am not describing this very well, I am not a battery expert by any mean's, but this is how the guys at battery direct explained it to me. Probably with better terms though...

Doj Dewd

you described it just fine. i understand it it (i think!)

i'm not looking at the espar right now - where is the bleeder screw?
do i just run the unit and then unscrew it to allow air to vent??

dvst8r

The bleeder screw is by the water pump, little black flat head screw. It always takes some time to work out all the air in the system on a new install. Some times it happens naturally sometimes, it needs a little help.

Because the Espar is below the water line of the truck just opening the screw with the engine off should be enough to let any air escape.

Doj Dewd

open the screw with engine AND espar off, or engine off and espar on?

Doj Dewd

where in the unit is the water pump?

dvst8r

Sorry that probably wasn't very descriptive as to where the bleeder screw is.

It is right at the top of the unit, at the very back of the water pump, right near what looks like "Top case halves" slightly offset to one side. So kinda right near the center near the top, but to one side. Clear as mud?