Espar, Proheat, Webasto..........
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
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From: Alberta
My truck is a 03, its got org battriess. Its always starts, I let the heater run for 2hrs before starting the engine. Instead of a pop bottle under the hood. You could always have a jerry can in the box. Thats what I did with my 93 ford diesel. The fuel pump will draw fuel that far, then there is no worry about an open diesel under the hood. Not sure why would get F14 siince you already had to running. Maybe the heater core is plugged or plugging causing a the heat code. I plumbed my heater into the head & the block. Not sure if anybody told you, make sure you run it @ least 15mins a month during the summer. As there is a burner mat kinda like sos pad that gets soaked with diesel fuel. If it doesnt stay moist the unti wont fire up when it dries out.
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From: Okotoks, AB
I've had plenty of F54's and F17's over the last year with kinked intake hose and gelling coolant. After correcting those, haven't had an issue. Never had to get my timer reset.
Jason, the bleed screw is to the outside of the unit on your install. Take the unit off the bracket and take a short screw driver. I did bleed it until there was no more air, but there would have been some air at the hose connections by the heater core.
Your batteries could be weak. I'm running group 31's with 210 min reserve, and it still draws it down to the point that the voltage gauge is below normal when the grids are on before I start. I usually have my fan on the second setting though. I've had it on the third several times, and on high occasionally, and its never failed to start. Drawing your batteries down that much will put a hurtin on your alternator though. I've been through one on my dually, and one on my 12v since I put the espar on.
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/ind...4&#entry173064
Post #4 has the codes listed.
Jason, the bleed screw is to the outside of the unit on your install. Take the unit off the bracket and take a short screw driver. I did bleed it until there was no more air, but there would have been some air at the hose connections by the heater core.
Your batteries could be weak. I'm running group 31's with 210 min reserve, and it still draws it down to the point that the voltage gauge is below normal when the grids are on before I start. I usually have my fan on the second setting though. I've had it on the third several times, and on high occasionally, and its never failed to start. Drawing your batteries down that much will put a hurtin on your alternator though. I've been through one on my dually, and one on my 12v since I put the espar on.
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/ind...4&#entry173064
Post #4 has the codes listed.
i'm pretty confident the batteries are still good. no problems at all today with codes or weak batteries. time will tell though . . .
thanx for the link to the codes. i'll have to save it somewhere.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,716
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From: Okotoks, AB
My truck is a 03, its got org battriess. Its always starts, I let the heater run for 2hrs before starting the engine. Instead of a pop bottle under the hood. You could always have a jerry can in the box. Thats what I did with my 93 ford diesel. The fuel pump will draw fuel that far, then there is no worry about an open diesel under the hood. Not sure why would get F14 siince you already had to running. Maybe the heater core is plugged or plugging causing a the heat code. I plumbed my heater into the head & the block. Not sure if anybody told you, make sure you run it @ least 15mins a month during the summer. As there is a burner mat kinda like sos pad that gets soaked with diesel fuel. If it doesnt stay moist the unti wont fire up when it dries out.
thanx for the heads up on the summertime running. i had also read that in the manual too.
dr -
if you're set on replacing the heater core, the dash is quite easy to remove/pull back. clayH did a thread on it earlier in the year. i followed his directions with no problems - although i think the vents may be slightly misaligned now because my driver side windshield clears MUCH quicker than the passenger side. when the snow melts on the winshield - the 4 melting spots go from large to small (driver to passenger)
anyone else who HASN'T removed the dash have this issue? (uneven windshield defrosting)
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From: Okotoks, AB
oh yeah tate - the rubber holder for the fuel pump. you put the pump in the rubber holder - was it quite tight in there? i just thought about it and it is mounted vertically - any chance of it sliding/vibrating out? or was it quite a snug fit?
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From: Okotoks, AB
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From: Airdrie, AB
LOL, your unit is definitely vertical, however to be technical the internal fuel pump is not exactly horizontal with the unit, so that when the unit is mounted horizontal the fuel pump is just over the 15 degree minimum, putting your pump at about 75 degrees when the unit is mounted vertical.
Not trying to be a smart as s, I was just born that way...
Not trying to be a smart as s, I was just born that way...
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LOL, your unit is definitely vertical, however to be technical the internal fuel pump is not exactly horizontal with the unit, so that when the unit is mounted horizontal the fuel pump is just over the 15 degree minimum, putting your pump at about 75 degrees when the unit is mounted vertical.
Not trying to be a smart as s, I was just born that way...
Not trying to be a smart as s, I was just born that way...
Ran this for a season now and no issues, but will change it if its messing up my $$$ heater.
