Onar12gs

Anxiously waiting for the big brown truck...I've emailed Franz several times and always gotten an immediate response. Mostly I've had stupid questions and he hasn't seemed to get aggravated yet. So far so good with support.

Since I have a recall notice (ball joint) coming any day now I'm going to wait until that is done before install.

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jacob_armour

well after having the race me in for over a month and trying economy and tow mode and cant say it was worth the money in all honesty gained no millage and when we had it in economy was lost almost 2mpg no joke had a h&s xrt pro a couple years ago and figured this would be quite comparable to it but I guess you get what you pay for

Onar12gs

Maybe you should try SW0? Mine has gained 24.6% - always hand calculated. Hoping for more.

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jacob_armour

SW0 what is that I only say 3 options tow economy and performance as well as timing adjustment which I left as it was

danramirez81

You must have the jr, on the sr it has levels 0-9

jacob_armour

oh I got ya it is the jr

Onar12gs

My RMjr has a total of 5 levels. Stock (unlocked), sw0-stock pwr, 1-econ, 2-tow, 3-perf. I run 0 for stock performance w/ dpf delete. Truck is otherwise stock including tires.

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johnh

what do you mean "genuine member"?

MarauderMedic

So I finally got tired of having to regen constantly (lots of city driving) and decided to do the dpf delete. I bought a 4" delete pipe from Flo Pro and a Smarty RaceME tuner. Took about 2 hours to complete the entire project (2 minutes of which were spent actually flaming the ECM with SW0) and I can honestly say I wish I had done this sooner. I noticed a remarkable difference in responsiveness and acceleration (boost actually put me back in my seat enough to get my adrenaline going for a sec). Not a single check engine light so far. I haven't actually messed with any of the other settings and considering Im so pleased with what Ive got already, I probably won't mess with any other settings for a while. I was surprised at how easy and hassle free the entire delete was. To anyone else looking to get the raceME tuner, it has my blessing.

Bdizzel55

.

I also have the race me tuner it very in eXpensive I have it set on the highest setting for an everyday driver I also just recently did the egr cooler delete there are 3 nuts that are kind of tricky to get to but it is worth it gives a little more throttle response after you you do that delete it doesn't use exhaust gases for intake air it's using Cleaner air after doing that delete plus a new thermostat I get about 20 mpg at 80 when I was getting 12-14 mpg

darrenb

if marco is also behind the raceme product, why can't the smarty ME match the race ME power output?

Chuck270

First post: I purchase the RaceME back in December along with Flo-Pro DPF delete pipe and finally got around to installing both last week. I have been running it at #1 "Economy" for about a week now and have seen my highway mileage clime for 16.8 GPM to 19.4 GPM on a normal run of 90 miles round trip on fairly level ground at 70MPH on stock tires.


I wish I would have done it back when I got it in December.


I deleted the CAT along with the DPF and the truck acts/feels like I took a couple of tons off of it. So far so good!

6.7L MegaCab

Gallons per mile must be really hard on the wallet.

I'm just giving you a hard time... Welcome to the club of better mileage and an engine not eating it's own waste. Look into extending your drain intervals now. I'm somewhere around 25K since my last oil change I do perform oil analysis every 7500 miles to verify all is good.

Welcome to DTR. :beer:

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K&ARam

I hate to beat a dead horse but I'm new to this whole diesel and working on my own truck scene and sometimes I just need things spelled out for me. I just did my EGR and throttle valve delete and should be receiving my Smarty Race ME and Flo Pro pipe tomorrow. So, after I install the new pipe, then I run the smarty programming? I currently have the CEL lit for the EGR.....is the tuner going to properly delete these codes? I read somewhere that I need to have codes wiped before I install the Smarty. Also, do I just zip tie the sensors out of the DPF to the chassis? And the silver pressure sensor tubes...just pull them out of where they die into the black rubber tubing and call it a day? Sorry in advance if this explained somewhere, everyone here seems to have a very solid grasp on what the hell they're talking about and I am definitely still "newbie" status. Thanks for the help I am pumped to get this project handled!

xcc_rider

Remove the tubing from the rubber hoses, you'll get less rattles that way.
As for the connectors, wrap them with electrical tape to protect the contacts and zip tie the out of the way.
Load the tuner on the ecm first, that way if you're having a problem you can work it out before everythings removed.
An yes you should be code free when tuning the truck but not absolutely necessary.