4th Gen Engine and Drivetrain-2010 and Up 6.7 liter Engine and Drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

fuel filter failure

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Old 11-18-2011, 09:00 PM
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Along with proper filtration the other issue is where you get your fuel. I fill up pickup at the same fuel supplier we fill our hay trucks at and they move a very large volume of fuel. Never seen a hint of dirt in any filters running their fuel
Old 11-19-2011, 08:45 AM
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For the 6.7's the only filter I have found to meet OEM specs is the OEM filter.

For 00+ 5.9's the best filter on the market is the Baldwin PF7977.

I will never run a Wix fuel filter as I have yet to see one with the advertised specs meeting the filter they cross to.
Old 11-19-2011, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Blake Clark
Whomever designed the FF setup on the 3rd gen 6.7 Id love to take him to a nice steak dinner and then when he is least expecting it kick him as hard as possible in the....

Well anyway.

The 4th gen setup is a breezed. Less than 5 mins I can have my filter out and a new on in.

Nice, At least they were thinking.
Old 11-19-2011, 07:04 PM
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I never understood why they went backwords in technology when the same setup was employed from 00-07 and was VERY easy to change, and very effective. When the first 6.7 filter came out it wasn't even the F2 that we have now.
Old 11-19-2011, 07:09 PM
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I have not seen the new setup, but I will say that the filter that is on my 2008 is much larger than the one on the 06
Old 11-19-2011, 07:15 PM
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Are you sure it's not the upgraded one? I don't recall when the change happened, but I think it was in the MY08 timeframe.
Old 11-19-2011, 07:25 PM
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Not sure
Old 11-20-2011, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Spooler
Since you guys have read, here is my take on multistage filtering.

If you install an Airdog filter setup or the like that is actually your Primary filtration system. You will want to filter in this order. Bulk (Mud) filter. Water seperation filter, and then your polishing filter (2um). After the primary filter system you will go to the factory on motor filter (Last chance filter). This is your safety net. You should have polished fuel before you get to this filter. The size of your filters is determined in how much fuel you use each year. Oversizing is O.K. You want to be able to make it through at least one tank of bad fuel with no issues. That means nothing getting to your last chance filter.

Unfortunetly, using an Airdog filter setup like I do leaves alot to be desired because it goes straight from a Mud filter to a 2um polishing filter. Does it work OK, yes. Is it perfect, No. I wish I had a 10 micron media water seperator filter between my bulk filter and 2um filter. So it would be a 30um to 10um to 2um. Then from here to my Last chance filter with extremely polished fuel. The last chance filter also serves as a way to inspect how my primary filtering system is doing when replacing. Clean, no water, all is well. Do I see a need to run a 30um to a 20um to a 10um to a 5um to a 2um, No. Kind of a waste for our vehicles. All this is just my opinion on what I have learned. Can you go more extreme, sure. Is either way wrong, No.
Not sure what you mean by "polishing"-- I would associate that more with chrome than with diesel fuel.

We've all heard that old line about fast, good or cheap-- pick two. With filtration, you can choose efficiency, flow, and packaging (physical size). Newer filtration media improve this "tradeoff triangle"-- but the compromise still exists.

One thing you may be misapprehending: there's never a "need" for a coarse (25-30 micron) filter. You can go straight to a 15 micron if you want. Heck, you could go straight to 2 micron if you wanted-- you'd just plug the filter rather quickly.

An "ultimate" filtration setup would have a very large water separator first in the chain. The large size slows down the fuel as it goes through the water separator and makes the media much more effective at stripping out water. Even with identical media, a much larger water separator is more more effective at stripping water because of the slower velocity.

After this initial filtration, two very fine filters in a row can be used, of identical micron rating-- say 5 or 2 micron rating. There's no need to have an intermediate 10 micron or 15 micron rating. The only advantage to a coarser filter is less restriction, which you can get around with a larger filter.

Another trick which really helps improve filtration is recirculation-- giving the fuel multiple passes through the same filter. If a filter is 95% efficient in a single pass, then you remove 95% of that remaining 5% with the second pass, and another 95% with a third pass. You can see how 2 or 3 passes REALLY makes the fuel a lot cleaner.

Finally, keep in mind that micron ratings are established not for FILTERS but for MEDIA! Why does this matter?


It matters because how now the media performs in the lab and how it performs in the filter are very different things that only loosely correlate.

For example, a huge filter with a 5 micron rating will give you, overall, much cleaner fuel than a 2 micron rating in a much smaller filter. It removes more dirt (and water too-- as your secondary filter also removes water that slipped through the water separator).

In the lab, the media is tested with the same filter velocity. the same percentage of water and contaminants and all that. In the real world, that larger filter has much slower velocity through the media (and thus, much HIGHER real world efficiency).

Bottom line: use the biggest, finest filters you can physically fit.


H
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