Upgraded steering
I have 43K on my 07. They probably won't cover it under warranty but I'm trying to decide if I should do it myself? I havn't had any problems, other than a clunk in the steering wheel when I'm on the brakes and turning and I can't figure out what it is. It started about 10k miles ago, and I've checked everything I can think of and it feels fine. What do yall think that is?
mcolectd:
I had a clunk in my steering as you describe, but it was on my 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve. It ended up being the intermediate steering shaft (shaft between the firewall and steering box).
I installed a "Borgeson Steering Shaft" and it took care of the clunking noise. They are alot better quality than the stock units.
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John_P
Thanks John P and Bronco Hound. I guess I'm %$@&^&! any way. I have the "ADDED CARE" warrenty.
My next question is putting on the upgraded pittman arm with the different angle going to effect my ability to retain my sssss. If so I might not order the different pittman arm.
My next question is putting on the upgraded pittman arm with the different angle going to effect my ability to retain my sssss. If so I might not order the different pittman arm.
Thanks John P and Bronco Hound. I guess I'm %$@&^&! any way. I have the "ADDED CARE" warrenty.
My next question is putting on the upgraded pittman arm with the different angle going to effect my ability to retain my sssss. If so I might not order the different pittman arm.
My next question is putting on the upgraded pittman arm with the different angle going to effect my ability to retain my sssss. If so I might not order the different pittman arm.
Thanks John P and Bronco Hound. I guess I'm %$@&^&! any way. I have the "ADDED CARE" warrenty.
My next question is putting on the upgraded pittman arm with the different angle going to effect my ability to retain my sssss. If so I might not order the different pittman arm.
My next question is putting on the upgraded pittman arm with the different angle going to effect my ability to retain my sssss. If so I might not order the different pittman arm.
From my side,....you are very welcome finndog!
I am sorry to be the "bearer of bad news" on that warranty information.
I will check with my dealer for you on that "Added Care" Plus Warranty as far as it covering the TSB/Repairs.
Passenger Side Tie Rod
Hi Guys, new member. Lots of good info on the forum.
Looking at the photos of the new steering linkage, it looks as if the passenger side tie rod is permanently mounted to the long rod linking the drivers side. Is this really the case? If so that means the entire rod will need to be changed in order to replace the tie rod.
I just purchased a 06 3500 Dually. It has the original linkage setup. I have put about 250 miles on it with no problems.
Jim
Looking at the photos of the new steering linkage, it looks as if the passenger side tie rod is permanently mounted to the long rod linking the drivers side. Is this really the case? If so that means the entire rod will need to be changed in order to replace the tie rod.
I just purchased a 06 3500 Dually. It has the original linkage setup. I have put about 250 miles on it with no problems.
Jim
I just got mine back from the dealer. I took the TSB in and told them about the constant bump steer and occasional wobble (never have had it but.....)
The dealer had to fight tooth and nail with the warranty co but in the end they put the upgraded steering componets and new ball Joints in.
All I can say is WOW, the truck is completely different. It drives like a half ton. Actually it drives better than the half ton I was using as a loaner.
I have spent countless hours and $$$ trying to get rid of the front end shimmy. The dual stabilizer helped but all it was doing was masking the problem.
The dealer had to install the single stablizer and said the dual would not work. It took me about a half hour to put the dual back on and it got rid of the last little bit of bump steer I had. I did have to drill new holes for the larger u-bolts.
With me running 35's I would have never imagined it could drive the well.
So in closing, thanks to whoever posted the TSB info and to all who commented. Last but not least, if you are considering this but have not done it, get off of your rear and get it done!!!
The dealer had to fight tooth and nail with the warranty co but in the end they put the upgraded steering componets and new ball Joints in.
All I can say is WOW, the truck is completely different. It drives like a half ton. Actually it drives better than the half ton I was using as a loaner.
I have spent countless hours and $$$ trying to get rid of the front end shimmy. The dual stabilizer helped but all it was doing was masking the problem.
The dealer had to install the single stablizer and said the dual would not work. It took me about a half hour to put the dual back on and it got rid of the last little bit of bump steer I had. I did have to drill new holes for the larger u-bolts.
With me running 35's I would have never imagined it could drive the well.
So in closing, thanks to whoever posted the TSB info and to all who commented. Last but not least, if you are considering this but have not done it, get off of your rear and get it done!!!
DWK, I see you have a 2" in leveling kit. Addressing the bump steer with more stabilizer is still masking a problem. The drag link needs to be pretty close to parallel to the track bar for a normally-operating setup. I used a drop pitman to fix the bump steer on mine. And it didn't just feel a lot better. It literally went away - bump steer one minute gone the next. Well to be honest, it took almost an hour to get the old pitman arm off! 
I have a new dual stabilizer waiting to install. But that will be for when it's time for new, slightly larger tires (going to 34s). The only thing I would expect from a steering stabilizer is steering control, not steering geometry correction.

I have a new dual stabilizer waiting to install. But that will be for when it's time for new, slightly larger tires (going to 34s). The only thing I would expect from a steering stabilizer is steering control, not steering geometry correction.
DWK, I see you have a 2" in leveling kit. Addressing the bump steer with more stabilizer is still masking a problem. The drag link needs to be pretty close to parallel to the track bar for a normally-operating setup. I used a drop pitman to fix the bump steer on mine. And it didn't just feel a lot better. It literally went away - bump steer one minute gone the next. Well to be honest, it took almost an hour to get the old pitman arm off! 
I have a new dual stabilizer waiting to install. But that will be for when it's time for new, slightly larger tires (going to 34s). The only thing I would expect from a steering stabilizer is steering control, not steering geometry correction.

I have a new dual stabilizer waiting to install. But that will be for when it's time for new, slightly larger tires (going to 34s). The only thing I would expect from a steering stabilizer is steering control, not steering geometry correction.
Shawn
DC400 - my4x4store.com - $69.79. That was the cheapest I found, but admittedly did not spend a great deal of time looking. It's listed for a 4" inch lift. Supposedly they don't make one for a 2" lift. But when you put the DC400 beside the old one you'll see it actually adds only about 2" to the drop. Works perfectly. Don't bother asking the droid clerks about anything else. They will say you don't need it for a 2" lift.
Assuming you don't mind bump steer.
Assuming you don't mind bump steer.
DC400 - my4x4store.com - $69.79. That was the cheapest I found, but admittedly did not spend a great deal of time looking. It's listed for a 4" inch lift. Supposedly they don't make one for a 2" lift. But when you put the DC400 beside the old one you'll see it actually adds only about 2" to the drop. Works perfectly. Don't bother asking the droid clerks about anything else. They will say you don't need it for a 2" lift.
Assuming you don't mind bump steer.
Assuming you don't mind bump steer.

Silly question here, but does that new drop pitman arm have the geometry of the original or new style pitman arm that dodge came out with? Does it matter? E.g. will the old style not hit if it's a drop pitman arm?


