06 A/C working intermittently
06 A/C working intermittently
2006 w/ 44k miles. Started a few months ago and has gotten worse. Turn the a/c on and nothing but ambient air blowing in. Drive for a few miles hitting the a/c button and turning the fan off then back on a couple times and it will eventually kick in. Don't think there is a problem with the freon level as it still gets cold as hell. Once it kicks in it stays on until you shut the truck off then the whole thing starts over again. Its not the HVAC door problem b/c that broke last year. Thoughts?
did you puul the glovvebox down and check the recirc door? just push the sides in to let it come loose
mine fell off, and the AC could not overcome the outside air because of the way it was flowing.
do a search for post HEATER TREATER.
mine fell off, and the AC could not overcome the outside air because of the way it was flowing.
do a search for post HEATER TREATER.
The recirc door is already out. Took it after it broke.
A/c
I had the exact same symptoms... mine is in the shop now for it. As it turns out, the orifice tube in the cooler line broke loose and lodged deep within the line. I ordered a new line with the tube built in for $65 at advance auto. They should be done with it in the morning... I am hoping that is all. A new compressor and dryer is not in my budget right now.
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if your AC works after messing with it, its not your orifice tube or freon or anything else in your charged AC system. It sounds like either a button, blend door or a sensor issue. When you turn your AC on does the compressor kick on? Does your accumulator get cold?
compressor tries when the button is mashed
The compressor tries about 3x then nothing. It will try everytime the button is pressed. Freon is ok, the mechanic joined two wires (red and blue/yellow) and it worked for a day and 1/2. Now same thing even with the wires bypassed. Nothing else is wrong on the truck. I have a #2 pencil holding the broken door.
I don't want to replace the ecm and reflash everything. Would a low pressure sensor cause this mess. I added two cans of 134 (the mechanic said I had too much) and it worked for a day? I'm on vacation now and had to borrow a FORD to pull the camper and boat(double). I really appreciate you help!
I don't want to replace the ecm and reflash everything. Would a low pressure sensor cause this mess. I added two cans of 134 (the mechanic said I had too much) and it worked for a day? I'm on vacation now and had to borrow a FORD to pull the camper and boat(double). I really appreciate you help!
Clutch coil is dieing or dead already.
Unplug the 2 wire connectin on top of comp, it goes To TIPM
voltmeter the connection, key on,snowflake on
if your getting at least 10.8 volts, it's not the computer.
Next, ohm the coil (wires on compresor side) for resistance.
I'm betting it's the coil.
Good Luck....Boudreaux
Unplug the 2 wire connectin on top of comp, it goes To TIPM
voltmeter the connection, key on,snowflake on
if your getting at least 10.8 volts, it's not the computer.
Next, ohm the coil (wires on compresor side) for resistance.
I'm betting it's the coil.
Good Luck....Boudreaux
Clutch coil is dieing or dead already.
Unplug the 2 wire connectin on top of comp, it goes To TIPM
voltmeter the connection, key on,snowflake on
if your getting at least 10.8 volts, it's not the computer.
Next, ohm the coil (wires on compresor side) for resistance.
I'm betting it's the coil.
Good Luck....Boudreaux
Unplug the 2 wire connectin on top of comp, it goes To TIPM
voltmeter the connection, key on,snowflake on
if your getting at least 10.8 volts, it's not the computer.
Next, ohm the coil (wires on compresor side) for resistance.
I'm betting it's the coil.
Good Luck....Boudreaux
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