3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (6.7L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 6.7L ONLY!

Deleting the 6.7: A guide to making it run right!

Old 05-18-2011, 01:14 AM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by Polaraco
That is correct Mega. . . But for the engines sake, leave the damned thing unplugged.

I was one of the people who started on the unplugginh 4 years ago. As said, the soft warning you get is a very small price to pay.

The EGR is taking soot laiden raw exhaust and pumping it back into the intake. Long term, intakes get clogged. With the EGR disconnected the regens are reduced because you are not recycling exhaust. The EGR is supposed to reduce NOX, but at a very high price.

Also, if you look deep in the specs, the life of a 6.7 is speced to 350,000 miles over the 5.9 550K.

I recently had my air horn off and my intake was clean as a whistle.\
True, but this message is for those whom are deleting and reprogramming. In that case, leaving it plugged in allows full power and the EGR is inoperable due to the reprogramming... If you are deleting or reprogramming, then you need to leave the EGR motor electrical plugged in to not derate. If you are not reprogramming and deleting then by all means just unplug it and get a soft code and be better off that way...
Old 05-22-2011, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mega-engr
True, but this message is for those whom are deleting and reprogramming. In that case, leaving it plugged in allows full power and the EGR is inoperable due to the reprogramming... If you are deleting or reprogramming, then you need to leave the EGR motor electrical plugged in to not derate. If you are not reprogramming and deleting then by all means just unplug it and get a soft code and be better off that way...
No doubt. But as said, it looses HP. But I have to argue with that and have been for 3 years. The Jeans Gauge says otherwise. I've had 3 years on my mods, trouble free.

I know when the plunger is removed from the EGR servo, the valve leaks exhaust.
Old 05-23-2011, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Polaraco
No doubt. But as said, it looses HP. But I have to argue with that and have been for 3 years. The Jeans Gauge says otherwise. I've had 3 years on my mods, trouble free.

I know when the plunger is removed from the EGR servo, the valve leaks exhaust.
When mine was unplugged before the reporgramming, my butt gauge could not tell either...

I installed a plug into the exhaust side EGR tube when I reprogrammed and removed the plunger, and put the crossover and everything back on like stock. This was insurance to make sure no exhaust gets through...
Old 05-23-2011, 06:30 PM
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Yeah, but like I said, the EGR would leak exhaust gas when there was low boost.

That's why I came up with the freeze plug idea. Put a bolt in a dorman 555-020 freeze plug and put it in the cooler end of the tube. THEN you have the valve completely off.

Right now, my Black Maxx is doing nothing for me with the new gadget. 6.7's are a PITA with these controlls. . . But this truck runs gooood. The problem with the 6.7 is they each react different to the same mods
Old 05-24-2011, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Polaraco
Yeah, but like I said, the EGR would leak exhaust gas when there was low boost.

That's why I came up with the freeze plug idea. Put a bolt in a dorman 555-020 freeze plug and put it in the cooler end of the tube. THEN you have the valve completely off.

Right now, my Black Maxx is doing nothing for me with the new gadget. 6.7's are a PITA with these controlls. . . But this truck runs gooood. The problem with the 6.7 is they each react different to the same mods
That is what I meant by the exhaust side of the EGR (not the EGR motor side). Long ago, I put that same freeze plug part number in the EGR cooler side where I drilled the center of the plug and installed a bolt and double nut so I can grab on and yank it out when I need to. I don't think the small amount of EGR leakage at low boost without the plug is a big deal for most though.

Sounds like you're one of the original pioneers here . I love my truck since fixing these emmisions related demons.
Old 05-24-2011, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mega-engr
That is what I meant by the exhaust side of the EGR (not the EGR motor side). Long ago, I put that same freeze plug part number in the EGR cooler side where I drilled the center of the plug and installed a bolt and double nut so I can grab on and yank it out when I need to. I don't think the small amount of EGR leakage at low boost without the plug is a big deal for most though.

Sounds like you're one of the original pioneers here . I love my truck since fixing these emmisions related demons.
Yeah. . .One of my small contributions to the 6.7 world. I came up with the bolt idea AFTER I put my plug in.

Did allot of work on the DPF too.

Got tired of sharing my work to an unappreciat crowd.
Old 06-07-2011, 10:17 AM
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I am new to the whole diesel performance thing but I've been around them for a while but never done any major work to one and I'm trying to get some ideas of what I can do to my 6.7 performance wise once my warranty runs out next year if I can wait that long. I know I have to open up the exhaust and intake but not sure on other things I can do that don't cost $2 or $3K at a time. It's my daily driver but I want it to get up and go when me and my buddies get together and play around.
Old 06-07-2011, 11:40 AM
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Actually this is called performance, but all it's really doing is putting the motor where it belongs. Then performance. They have these motors so restricted.

WELCOME!
Old 06-07-2011, 01:09 PM
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So far what I want to do is put a intake on it, delete egr, dpf, and throttle valve, put intake elbow, boost tube, and so far the edge juice with attitude module with a 8" single stack for exhaust and a dual disk clutch. I didn't know if there were other things like this I could do before I got into bigger turbo and dual CP3's and stuff like that.
Old 06-07-2011, 05:11 PM
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If you are doing those deletes, Do yourself a favor. Use either the H & S or the Smart. The H & S is my preference.

The edge does a lousey job at deletes. It's a good tuner. But for the deletes, it has too many issues
Old 06-07-2011, 07:02 PM
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Thanks. As you can tell I dont know much about the performance end but I'm trying to learn more cause I want to do everything right on my truck I've got over a year till my warranty runs out so I have plenty of time to learn and save up some money. Caint I stack another programmer on top of the smarty as long as the smarty is on a tune that doesn't mess with the timing.
Old 06-07-2011, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cgfd1903
Caint I stack another programmer on top of the smarty as long as the smarty is on a tune that doesn't mess with the timing.
You can, but if your running stock on the injectors, turbo, tranny etc there is no need too. The Smarty can put out more than your stock stuff can handle.
Old 06-07-2011, 08:20 PM
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Does any of the smarty's have an Outlook monitor where you can change the setting on the fly without having to plug the whole unit back in to change the setting.
Old 06-07-2011, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cgfd1903
Does any of the smarty's have an Outlook monitor where you can change the setting on the fly without having to plug the whole unit back in to change the setting.
No it doesn't. The Mini-Maxx or the Black Maxx are what you want for that. They are simpler to use too.

BTW Blake. The Black Maxx can do it's share of damage too.
Old 06-08-2011, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Polaraco
BTW Blake. The Black Maxx can do it's share of damage too.
No Doubt. Both have eaten their fair share of 68RFE's....

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