Tranny damage with a box?
How many miles did you have on your trans when it started slipping, Also would it slip any on level three when you put it on? I guess you burnt the clutches on level 4 enough it won't hold on level 3 anymore.
I made it 83000 miles, on mine, only 5000 if that was with injectors. I always run my power pup on performance. It would slip on performance mode pretty easy, and on extreme it would slip REALLY bad.
Originally Posted by dencordle
when I got my edge juice w/attitude It would slip on level 4 now it slips on 3. I am trying to save moneys to get a TC and VB
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I had the edge EZ on from 4000-16000 miles, no slipping. Put the bullydog on from 16,000-53,000 on performance with the trans slipping often. Now at 53,000 i put the juice on and i dont have any slip on level 3 or 4. 5 only slips at full throttle. The juice reads 2% slip is all i have reached on the records screen.
Everything I'm about to post is MY OPINION based on people I have talked to and my experience. I do not claim to be an expert, and have been proven wrong once or twice before in my life - I'm pretty sure it was only once
.
The stock converter will hold about 60 extra ponies. So the Juice w/ attitude set on level 3 and never turned up any higher will probably last a really long time. With that said, I am talking about an unloaded truck. When I first put mine on, I could not go above level 2 with 8000lbs in tow without slipping slightly. I ran my Juice - before I got the hot version and water/meth injection - for about 20,000 miles before I got my TC and VB. I had logged slippage as high as 11% on the attitude monitor. In all honesty, when they cut my converter apart it really didn't look all that bad, but the problem is that if you wait until the converter does get really bad, it is sending clutch material throughout the rest of the tranny. If I had it to do over again, I would get the TC and VB first, and then start adding power.
To Deke - A converter and valve body is all that is needed for the mods being discussed in this thread. Some will claim that billet shafts are needed, but unless you are doing high boost 4wheel launches, or sled pulling, you do not need anything but a TC and VB. I have not had my truck on the dyno yet, but am estimating around 475/950 at the wheels and my flexplate and shafts are just fine. I can tow 8000lbs with full power and not have issues.
MikeyT - To feel your converter slipping, get up to highway speed so the truck is in 4th and the converter is locked up. Give it moderate throttle, but not so much that it downshifts to third, because that will unlock the converter. If at this point the rpms seem to increase too fast in relation to the acceleration of the truck, it's probably slipping. If the truck seems to accelerate with the rpm increase you're probably ok.
.The stock converter will hold about 60 extra ponies. So the Juice w/ attitude set on level 3 and never turned up any higher will probably last a really long time. With that said, I am talking about an unloaded truck. When I first put mine on, I could not go above level 2 with 8000lbs in tow without slipping slightly. I ran my Juice - before I got the hot version and water/meth injection - for about 20,000 miles before I got my TC and VB. I had logged slippage as high as 11% on the attitude monitor. In all honesty, when they cut my converter apart it really didn't look all that bad, but the problem is that if you wait until the converter does get really bad, it is sending clutch material throughout the rest of the tranny. If I had it to do over again, I would get the TC and VB first, and then start adding power.
To Deke - A converter and valve body is all that is needed for the mods being discussed in this thread. Some will claim that billet shafts are needed, but unless you are doing high boost 4wheel launches, or sled pulling, you do not need anything but a TC and VB. I have not had my truck on the dyno yet, but am estimating around 475/950 at the wheels and my flexplate and shafts are just fine. I can tow 8000lbs with full power and not have issues.
MikeyT - To feel your converter slipping, get up to highway speed so the truck is in 4th and the converter is locked up. Give it moderate throttle, but not so much that it downshifts to third, because that will unlock the converter. If at this point the rpms seem to increase too fast in relation to the acceleration of the truck, it's probably slipping. If the truck seems to accelerate with the rpm increase you're probably ok.
well it is more torque than hp that gets it slipping but my .02 is just run a 60hp 150lb box. you can probabaly get away with a bit more on a smaller tire but for margin I would just stay about there.
in all honesty 60hp 150lb upgrade will will get you truck down the road decent. I am on 37's and at level 3 with the juice I don't have any trouble with power. granted more would be nice but I stay in level 3 until I do something about the tranny.
I was just going to do the standard quad box and gauges but for the price I could almost get the juice so I did.
as for the trans slipping just watch you tach and use a little comon sense you should be able to tell when it is slipping. It is just about paying attention to what is going on.
in all honesty 60hp 150lb upgrade will will get you truck down the road decent. I am on 37's and at level 3 with the juice I don't have any trouble with power. granted more would be nice but I stay in level 3 until I do something about the tranny.
I was just going to do the standard quad box and gauges but for the price I could almost get the juice so I did.
as for the trans slipping just watch you tach and use a little comon sense you should be able to tell when it is slipping. It is just about paying attention to what is going on.
When you were slipping were you in Tow/Haul,or was it in 4th. gear?Or was the T/C clutch that was slipping?I'm OK with the power I have stock,but more is better.I just don't want to start frying any clutches before I can upgrade the trans.
Originally Posted by bigwheels94
When you were slipping were you in Tow/Haul,or was it in 4th. gear?Or was the T/C clutch that was slipping?I'm OK with the power I have stock,but more is better.I just don't want to start frying any clutches before I can upgrade the trans.
Originally Posted by omaharam
Everything I'm about to post is MY OPINION based on people I have talked to and my experience. I do not claim to be an expert, and have been proven wrong once or twice before in my life - I'm pretty sure it was only once
.
The stock converter will hold about 60 extra ponies. So the Juice w/ attitude set on level 3 and never turned up any higher will probably last a really long time. With that said, I am talking about an unloaded truck. When I first put mine on, I could not go above level 2 with 8000lbs in tow without slipping slightly. I ran my Juice - before I got the hot version and water/meth injection - for about 20,000 miles before I got my TC and VB. I had logged slippage as high as 11% on the attitude monitor. In all honesty, when they cut my converter apart it really didn't look all that bad, but the problem is that if you wait until the converter does get really bad, it is sending clutch material throughout the rest of the tranny. If I had it to do over again, I would get the TC and VB first, and then start adding power.
To Deke - A converter and valve body is all that is needed for the mods being discussed in this thread. Some will claim that billet shafts are needed, but unless you are doing high boost 4wheel launches, or sled pulling, you do not need anything but a TC and VB. I have not had my truck on the dyno yet, but am estimating around 475/950 at the wheels and my flexplate and shafts are just fine. I can tow 8000lbs with full power and not have issues.
MikeyT - To feel your converter slipping, get up to highway speed so the truck is in 4th and the converter is locked up. Give it moderate throttle, but not so much that it downshifts to third, because that will unlock the converter. If at this point the rpms seem to increase too fast in relation to the acceleration of the truck, it's probably slipping. If the truck seems to accelerate with the rpm increase you're probably ok.
.The stock converter will hold about 60 extra ponies. So the Juice w/ attitude set on level 3 and never turned up any higher will probably last a really long time. With that said, I am talking about an unloaded truck. When I first put mine on, I could not go above level 2 with 8000lbs in tow without slipping slightly. I ran my Juice - before I got the hot version and water/meth injection - for about 20,000 miles before I got my TC and VB. I had logged slippage as high as 11% on the attitude monitor. In all honesty, when they cut my converter apart it really didn't look all that bad, but the problem is that if you wait until the converter does get really bad, it is sending clutch material throughout the rest of the tranny. If I had it to do over again, I would get the TC and VB first, and then start adding power.
To Deke - A converter and valve body is all that is needed for the mods being discussed in this thread. Some will claim that billet shafts are needed, but unless you are doing high boost 4wheel launches, or sled pulling, you do not need anything but a TC and VB. I have not had my truck on the dyno yet, but am estimating around 475/950 at the wheels and my flexplate and shafts are just fine. I can tow 8000lbs with full power and not have issues.
MikeyT - To feel your converter slipping, get up to highway speed so the truck is in 4th and the converter is locked up. Give it moderate throttle, but not so much that it downshifts to third, because that will unlock the converter. If at this point the rpms seem to increase too fast in relation to the acceleration of the truck, it's probably slipping. If the truck seems to accelerate with the rpm increase you're probably ok.
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