Black Dog

Ok, Its a 89' automatic, 2 wheel drive, Bone stock. When I fire it up first thing in the morning and put it in drive...give it a little fuel...its kinda like the converter flairs a little bit. I don't feel any slipping, it kinda flashes like a stall converter. Once I've been through the gears once, it fine for the rest of the day. The guy I bought it from said the tranny pump was slow on building pressure and to be easy with it when I first fired it up in the mornings. What tranny do I have? And what could this be?

archer39

you have a torqueflite 727 transmission. The converter drains it fluid back into the pan when the truck sits over night. The best and easiest thing to do is just put it in neutral for a few seconds when you just start it then it will pump the converter full.

Black Dog

Is this all you think it is? What causes this? I mean, it didnt act like that when it was new. Is this 727 tranny considered to be pretty good?

Thanks for the help!

Crossy's son

Yea thats called converter drainback.

just let it idle in neutral for 30 seconds and it'll be good to go....the converter doens't fill in PARK but it does fill in NEUTRAL.

A transgo shift kit will let the converter fill in park......and much faster. (been there done it 2x)

Old-stuff

The converter is draining because there is a ckeckball in the valve body that seals a hole in the separater plate between the two valvebody parts. As the miles build up the hole in the separater plate wears . This allows the fluid to drain from the converter. There is probably no need to fix it imediately. Just do as described as above. The 727 is a very good tranny.Just keep good fluid in it, Keep the throttle cable adjusted corectly and they hold up very well.
Might be a good excuse to instal a shift inproover kit though. They should come with a new separater plate.
Ray

Crossy's son

Transgo 727 shift-kits DO not come with a new seperator plate.

NO_SPRK

when i bought my truck (had 727) it had been sitting almost a month. it started up fine but the trans did the same thing. its normal.

92'1stGen

Yep, it's normal, my 518 in the 92' does the same thing. I shift into neutral for about 30 seconds before I go off if it's the first start of the day. For every subsequent start after that, as long as it's just been run recently, I usually leave it in neutral for about 5 or 10 seconds. The 48re in the 06 is the same way, but it fills the converter a lot faster, so I don't have to wait as long. Just a product of Chrysler transmission.

Black Dog

Ok, so doesn't really sound like there's a problem there. Thanks guys!

What about when you pull the shifter down from park to any other grear, there's no notches, it's smooth all the way from Park down to 1st gear. I always start in 1st, then manually shift to 3rd. Then its where it needs to be while im driving it. Where's the notches that hold the shifter in place????

Black Dog

So, can you buy a new seperator plate, serperately? Or do you need to buy a new valve body all together to get that plate? And, is everybody sure its the seperator plate wearing out...or is it the check ball wearing out?

BC847

I've had the very same problem.

The way it works is this . . . . .

The component that holds in position, the gear selector spool-valve in the transmission valve-body, as well as the column-shifter and associated linkage is called the "Rooster-Comb".

It it located on the transmission valve-body as part of the gear selector mechanism.

Located on the valve-body itself, is an associated spring-loaded ball that pops in and out of the notches of the rooster-comb. That ball sitting in each of the individual notches provides the holding effect for the gear selected. As you move the shifter through the gears, the rooster-comb moves. The ball moves from one notch to the next.

Got that?







With time and wear, the comb becomes loose on it's shaft and allows it to move such that with enough slack, the ball can get by the comb and pop out of place. The ball and possibly the spring ends up stuck to the magnet located in the transmission's oil pan.

To fix it, one has to remove the valve-body so that the rooster-comb can be removed. Then, in my case, I simply peened where the factory staked the comb to the shaft. That tightened it up quite well, so no need to buy a new one.




If you're wanting to fix it, you just as well go ahead and install a TransGo kit seeing as you'll be right there.

Hope this helps.

BC847

PATC has them for $25. About a third way down this page: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

Black Dog

Man this is some good stuff!!! You guys know these trucks better than any single mechanic. Now, please explian how, and what you used to "Peen the existing divits". I uderstand why you did it, I just need to know how you did it

BC847

In a nutshell: I carefully secured the assembly in a vise, and using a hammer with a slightly blunt small chisel, I tapped the existing divots such that things tightened up. No weird science.

440trk

I would recommend you STOP doing that. When you manually place the trans in to first gear, it applies the internal clutches differently than when it's just in 1st normally. You will effectively put extra (and unnecessary) wear and tear on the trans by manually shifting 1st with a stock valvebody.

Manually applying 1st gear was never intended for regular use. Let the trans shift for itself. Your trans will thank you.