IA Farmer

I am about to tow a 10,000 camper 120 miles. What is the best settings for this to keep everything running cool? I don't care about mpg I just want to keep my egt and trans temp down. thanks I am running the 5.14 update.

Kickinbass7

Does anyone know if the torque settings stayed the same?

Blevins

Torque settings stayed the same.

Kickinbass7

Okay. Thanks.

checkster

Am i stupid or does it have to be so **** complicated to update this thing. guess thats why im still on 5.08

cstewart

It's not just you. The directions can be a "bit confusing"...overall, it's really simple once you understand all the "unzipping of the file" and whatnot.

I'll send you a quick PM with some simple directions (I ended up writing a "dumbed down" quick-step process for myself when doing these downloads for future updates. In short, you will be much happier with the latest tune over the 5.08 version!

AH64ID

Timing on a CR is dynamic, and ranges from about 13° BTDC to 9° ATDC on a stock tune. The timing map is based on load and rpm, and mainly emissions on a CR. I have a custom map that ranges from about -8° to 20°. It's a more efficient tune than stock.

With dynamic timing you can run low timing where you need it, low rpms, fueling, boost and ramp the timing up at higher loads/rpms. The goal is to get peak pressure about 15-18° ATDC, which is hard to measure, but it takes dynamic timing to do it for the entire rpm band.

The 12V's had static timing, so the timing was set to the rpm range the user wanted to use most. This is also why the CR's have a much flatter torque curve.

cstewart

What the heck...maybe this will help others as well:
Preparing for the Updates:
1) Create a simple "Smarty" file on your computer (you can obviously choose anywhere you want..ex: "Desktop", "C:drive", "My Documents"...whatever)
2) Make sure that you have downloaded the Adobe Reader (it's a free download available at the bottom of the screen once you have chosen your devise under the "downloads" tab on the MADS website)
3) Make sure you have down loaded the "7zip" file (same location as above...simply download these to your Smarty file that you created) Now your ready to download the newest "version" from Smarty.
Downloading the new file:
1) Go to the Smarty website and download the newest file provided and save it to your Smarty file you created
2) Once that is complete, go to your Smarty file and "right click" the latest file you just downloaded (...newest "tune"). Choose the "extract" or "unzip" option (not sure which one your computer will call it)
3) Once this is complete, plug in your Smarty device using the USB cable.
4) Once your computer recognizes your Smarty device, click the "icon" that looks like the Smarty device (it should show up in your Smarty file).
5) When prompted, choose the file that you just "unzipped" (this will be the same file you just downloaded and unzipped...)
6) Hit SEND
7) Don't panic when you see "Erasing memory, please wait" (a lot of people freak out and think that it is erasing the Smarty as a whole...it's just erasing the old tune) Shortly after, it will say "Sending data, please wait"
8) Once you get the "Transmission correctly performed" notification, you know everything worked out fine.
9) At this point, simply close everything out and unplug your Smarty from the computer.
DONE!

*I hope like hell I didn't miss anything...this is as simple as I know to make the "process" of getting the updated files from MADS/ Smarty.

If you have specific issues, feel free to PM me...
Hope this helps!

atown

Has anyone tried the 70hp compared to the 40hp? I really cant seem to notice any difference between the two. Seems like on previous tunes I could always tell.

Hintonc393

Yep, I am running it now with everything on default. My truck seems to like it more than SW1. On SW1 it rattles a lot, SW2 seems a lot quieter. It does not seem to make as much power as the last version on SW2. But it does not smoke as much either, on the last up date I could smoke out an intersection if it was on a hill but this one seems not to add as much fuel with high load and low RPM.

On a side note I called smarty to ask them a few questions about the new software and they told me that we now only have one injection event. Not sure if I am sold on that just yet. Talking to a tuner I know he said that a bunch of tunes that he had seen from smarty still had the late injection event when Marco said that they had been removed a long time ago. Seems like we would have noticed a big change in the sound if the pre and post injection events were removed.

atown

Interesting...From a dead stop I seem to smoke a little more on SW1 than on SW2, and it "feels" like it has more power on SW1. I have yet to notice any mileage increase as well. I do an even mix of freeway and stop and go. On older programs I would get about 470 miles on a tank (for me about 31 gal.). Its now about 440. Not a big deal, but would be better going the other way.

Hintonc393

Well, I have played around with my settings again and again and my truck runs much better on SW2. I have mine set on TM 2 Timing 3 POD 99. I like this much better than anything I have tried before. I just retimed my cp3 also and that made a huge difference in how it idled, I used to have a knock in the shifter at idle and now it's gone. Still seems to sound like a knock at idle but not near as bad as it was.