Big P

I posted this on the TDR, but I figured I'd post it here to for more feedback.

I had my Fass installed yesterday, and I'm not happy with it all. From the crimped fuel connectors that fall apart in your hand, to the blown
30amp fuse in the Fass harness, to the constant check engine light with the 628 code from pulling the stock pump relay, the noise, which I didn't notice on my 02 probably because the engine was so loud , and finally Fass recommends getting power from the cigarette lighter fuse, which is fine until you turn the key to the accessory position to listen to the radio and the Fass pump fires up and all you hear is a loud hum.

After having said all that, I really do feel an increase in performance. It made a defininte improvement with throttle response and made the TST come alive, but I can't live with all the other faults and am strongly considering taking it out and starting over.

Is there anybody out there in a similar situation as me? Anybody that switched systems and still felt the same performance increase?

I came really close to getting the GDP fuel system from the start, now I really wishing I did! Anybody want to buy a Fass cheap?

carcrz

Why not re-do the connections w/ some solder & liquid tape? Then wire it up to a spare switched fuse.

RAMROD2006

If you are serious about selling it pm me, I am in the market for one and i may be interested

973604x4

mount it on rubber...that helps sound. switch it to another fuse....i had your same complaint about trying to listen to the radio. There is a way to run it so it doesn't throw 628....but its set up like it is so you can go back to stock quickly if you ever needed to so i'm told.

I wish i would have gone a different route as well. I would have gone the Airdog route though.

Diesel-Dan

The PL-1002 Connectors. We had a VERY VERY bad run of these that did what you say. We have addressed the issue, but by the time we started getting calls on them, it was too late. Some had made it into kits. We do not have an issue sending new PL-1002 connectors out to any dealer that has an issue with one. We ended up throwing out about 1500 connectors due to this. We now check all these connectors before they leave our shop.

Why was the fuse blown? Did it come that way? If it did, our deepest apologies.

Reinstall your fuel relay, and disconnect your ground wire going to your fuel pump back at the tank. This wire should be on the #1 Pin on the connector. Black with an orange tracer. This will keep you from popping codes. You are basically treating it like an 06 truck.

Feel Free to find another power source with a test light. Verify that the fuse is hot in the run and start position only. Should be the same amperage as the cig lighter fuse currently used.

As for the noise, you can isolate the FASS bracket with rubber if you wish. This seems to help from what people have told me. If you have excessive noise, you might want to talk with your selling dealer about it and see if there is something that can be done with your unit. You might want to try the 5 gallon test to make sure you are not sucking air anywhere. Any air entering the system would cause excessive noise....

Let me know if I can be of any more assistance.

abc4yew

Dan, I'm still waiting for you to get back to me on my issues, ks

Diesel-Dan

MAN....Give me a link (PM it to me)...i see soo many threads in a day and talk to hundreds of folks on the phone...it all starts to run together........i do remember talking to you.........

Big P

Thank you Dan.

Diesel-Dan

No sweat bud.....im here to help....let me know what we can do.....

CrashCade

Is there a way to get rid of the 0628 code showing up?

Big P

Look back to post #5.

Big P

Dan, I have another wiring question. I have been looking at my shop manual and the cigarette lighter circuit is a 20amp circuit designed to work in the run and acc position. I have found several 15amp fused ignition switch circuits that work in the run position only, and a few 10amp circuits that work in the run and start positions. I know in your earlier post you said to locate a circuit that is on in the run and start position, but the cigarette light only works in the run and acc position.
My question is, if you are pulling power for the Fass of the hot side of the fuse, does it matter what amperage fuse the fuse tap is connected to? After all the fuse on the Fass harness is a 30amp getting power from a 20 amp circuit. I am no electrical genius, but am I making any sense?

Thanks!

Diesel-Dan

You should be well under 15 AMP in normal operation with your pump. If you do exceed that, something is very wrong. The initial spike in staring up might get close but you should be ok.

I don’t see an issue using the 15 amp fused circuits. The whole point of using a 15-20 circuit is using one that is robust enough to handle the FASS plus what ever else that is running on that wire. You could even pull power off the ignition switch in the steering column as well if you wanted to. BUT you would have to pull the covers off and trace wires to find the right one. Not hard by any means…just a bit more work than most are willing to do.

ALSO, If one wanted to get creative, they could get a relay and trigger it off the power wire at the stock in-tank pump. This would isolate the circuit for the FASS and you could pull power right off the BATT.
.