Looks like the 2nd gen manifold might require a 2nd gen turbo in order for the intercooler piping to look descent. Might skip that for now.

Can you remove the turbo without pulling the exhaust manifold?

If you pull the manifold, will you be able to get it back on? I've heard the manifolds don't like to go back on sometimes.

Thanks guys

 

Stock turbos aren't that bad but the back two nuts can be a pain. The manifold goes back on fairly easily but there's no studs to hang it on when you get it back in there so you have to hold it with one hand and try to get bolts started while at the same time positioning the individual gaskets for each cylinder. This can be fun when you also have a turbo hanging on there.....

 

So the part#s listed for the ATS plug kit and O-ring kit are no good according to ATS.

They cannot find the part #s and are trying to find the parts?

Can't say I'm too impressed with them. Told them numerous times what its for and they still cant find it?

So, what the other option? Plug the ports with JBweld?

 

I'm going to try the install this weekend myself. ATS plug would cost me about $80cdn, yes the part numbers are valid. so I'm trying to fab my own plug. So far the bolt M22x1.5m is from 98 cummins oil pan, cutting 3/8" off. Internally found a rubber plug which will be compressed by the bolt to block passages. Will see if this works as I'll do a compression test before install. Will take pics if it works.

 

you should also be able to buy an o-rin M22x1.5 plug at a hydraulic shop.

 

Well, after my last post explaining that it's pretty easy to swap stock turbos, I had big issues today and could not get it done. I could not get those bolts to break loose no matter what I did. Even using a breaker bar would not work. All that was happening is that the wrench was starting to turn on the nuts and damage them. I decided to just spray some penetrating fluid on them for now and I went ahead and installed the 4" elbow and my custom 4" exhaust. I'm starting another topic about all the crap I did today... I'm tired....

 

Heat?? Man that sucks...Keep us updated. Any chance I can pic up another HE351???LOL Sorry man, couldn't pass it up...

 

Thats not what I wanted to hear!

So, you couldn't break any of the nuts loose on the turbo?

Get some PB Blaster. That stuff works great. I better coat mine everyday for a week if I plan to get mine off!

 

That's exactly what I used (PB Blaster) Rifleman, just stay tuned. You never know. I may decide not to do it..

I've had my turbos on and off many times on my last trucks but I never had a problem like this. You may be OK GlennRMK

 

I just put on a HE351, 4" elbow, full 4" exhaust and a ATS exhaust manifold. My boost is now lower and my egts are higher. It is harder to get to 26 psi now and when I get there my egts are now 1300. My boost elbow screw is almost all the way in. The truck seems to spool quicker now with the manifold and 4" exhaust but I thought my egts would be super low. I am running the Jr on Performance. What are my problems? Wastegate opening prematurely? Smarty defueling past 26 psi (stock boost levels)? Less drive pressure = less boost?
I have not towed yet but I wanted to lower my egts and free up a bit of power without adding much more fuel. I realize that no one probably has my exact setup. But I was expecting higher boost and lower egts.

 

My guess is that your WG is opening prematurely.. Is the little hole drilled in your boost elbow?

Try pinching the WG line off and seeing what happens.

 

I would agree

Wastegate must be opening

I'm not sure what people are running on their 04.5s but I would think you would want 35-40 psi.

 

Yes there is a little hole drill into the boost elbow. I talked to the previous owner and he could get 32psi out of the turbo on his '04.5. I will zip tie the line after I tow if I can't get any boost out of it. If that doesn't work I will remove the actuator and shorten it.

 

Well I was able to get mine done and yes a PIA to get bolts off. Was trying to get exhaust manifold bolts off found #5 and #6 have metal retaining straps tied to each other. Top one not to hard to get off, but the bottom I think is in possible, the tranny dipstick tube bracket is attach at that point and won't move unless disassembly of line running behind turbo. Bolts broke loose on turbo so did not have to finsh taking exhaust manifold off. rear studs on EM had to be changed to longer ones as the HE351 has a thicker mount 3/4" vs 1/2" on the HE341. Reassembly went alot easier.

As CRtoney said though I was expecting lower egts, didn't happen. What I did see is egts climb to 800* faster under moderate throttle, max egts not checked yet as road was busy, but a short hard run I did see 36psi 1st run and 2nd run saw 32psi. On the highway before 7psi 650-700* now 700-750*@7psi, but this could be due to different air temp, wind and right foot activity. jr is on perf also. The HE351 also whistles alot louder . It took my son and I about 4hrs start to finish.

 

I just finished mine yesterday, About the same affects as you GREYTD but i got mine pushed to about 45-46 max with the elbow cranked all the way in. I'm going to back it off to top out at about 40-42 i COULD NOT break those bolts loose on the turbo so i took the manifold all the way off. Not to bad BUT, I did have to cut the bracket that holds the water line to the exhaust manifold, it would not come off the stud without draining all the water in the lines and taking all the fittings off. I have a dyno this weekend so i will let you all know how it does.