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fuel pressure guage??what kind is best stock

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Old 08-22-2006, 12:08 PM
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fuel pressure guage??what kind is best stock

All this talk about lift pumps dying has me concerned and I would like to install a fuel pressure guage to watch the lift pump. Truck is not bombed and will not be considered until out of warranty which at this rate of mileage my be a long time from now. 1 1/2 years old and only 12K on it so far.

I would like to have a guage that is accurate and understand the 0-30 ones may not be best suited for the stock pressure for being accurate? The lower 0-15 guage I saw on Genos looked like it was from the 60s. Maybe I am looking at the wrong type? I would like one that matches the cluster.

Point to the right direction

Is it safe to assume everything needed for install will come with the guage
or will more be needed?
Old 08-22-2006, 12:48 PM
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Go on Summitracing or Jegs.com and go to the guage section. Autometer probably has something you'd like. Maybe the Lunar or C2 series. My preference is for electrical guages with senders, not mechanical w/ isolators. JMO...
Old 08-22-2006, 02:16 PM
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Ditto on Autometer and electrical. Here is a pic of mine. In daylight it matches perfectly as you can see but at night it just backlights green and doesn't match like daytime. The Phantom II's match well day and night.
Old 08-22-2006, 02:50 PM
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Looks pretty good,can you see your tach ok?
Old 08-22-2006, 08:50 PM
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Why are electrical fuel pressure guages better than the mechanical?
Old 08-22-2006, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by blackmoke
Why are electrical fuel pressure guages better than the mechanical?
They are?

I guess most guys will tell you this because it eliminates all possibility of fuel entering the cab.
Truth is thousands of people run straight mechanical gauges (yes, diesel right up to the back of the gauge) and have yet to have a problem with it.
Old 08-22-2006, 09:13 PM
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I got a mechanical in mine, with an isolator though, not problems to speack of yet. I got the 30 psi guage cause I plan on puttin in a fass or walbro but I can read it just fine in 1lb increments. Idles at 8-8.5 and at wot I can get it down to about 3.5-4
Old 08-23-2006, 07:10 AM
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Electrical cost more, but in my opinion, they are more acurate and no chance of fuel in the cab or leakage to isolator. Those who have diesel right up to the guage.... you guys got b@lls, or you're not too bright. I don't mean to offend, but that's just dangerous. PERIOD.
Old 08-23-2006, 09:30 AM
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For those that have one how difficult is it to hook them up?

Did you have to use a tee type fitting of some sort? I looked at the one Geno's has which is ISSPRO and matches my dash but it is non electric. What does one need to make the fuel connection after the LP?

I looked at Summit racing and they have an electric one but it does not match the dash like ISSPRO.

Thanks for the replys so far
Old 08-23-2006, 11:15 AM
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You just tee into the supply line from the LP to the CP3. The line is rubber so you just cut it and use pushlock fitings on a tee with an 1/8th inch NPT port for the sensor. Then you just plug and play the rest of it and you are golden. When you figure the cost of the electrical versus the mechanical with isolator, etc. they are about the same cost.

Here's how I did mine.
Old 08-23-2006, 11:38 AM
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Not sure how much you are looking to spend but for the money the Recon might be a good choice?

It comes with stuff to do more than just FP but, you can only hook up what you want.
The FP kit comes with a 0-100 psi sender so if you add a pump later you are still ok. You can also set it to warn you if the pressure gets too low. It also has a min/max recording.

http://www.quadzillapower.com/prod_recon.html

You can also look in the instructions to see how easily it fits on the steering column with no need for any mounts or anything.


Quad
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