clutch question
#16
#17
they are not south bend.
the ofe is GREAT. the only reason i didnt buy a DD, is the sprung hub version wasnt available when i needed my clutch.
now that it's available, i would have grabbed the DD.
but the ofe tows great, is good in traffic, holds more than rated for, and is priced really nice.
#18
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no no no. the post you are asking for clarification about says the luk 500hp clutch. luk is a manufacturer.
they are not south bend.
the ofe is GREAT. the only reason i didnt buy a DD, is the sprung hub version wasnt available when i needed my clutch.
now that it's available, i would have grabbed the DD.
but the ofe tows great, is good in traffic, holds more than rated for, and is priced really nice.
they are not south bend.
the ofe is GREAT. the only reason i didnt buy a DD, is the sprung hub version wasnt available when i needed my clutch.
now that it's available, i would have grabbed the DD.
but the ofe tows great, is good in traffic, holds more than rated for, and is priced really nice.
#19
Let me save you from a big head ache! My truck had a HOT juice thats it. I thought I was in good shape by getting the con fe single, because the stoker didn't like level's 5 and 6. So I bought one The doggon thing lasted me 3 months and 5100 miles. Were not talking about real abuse hear no trailer just some drag racing and 2 burnouts "NEVER SLIPPED" I broke it in properly(500 miles) I put a smarty on and done. well make a long story short i glazed the clutch dont know how i guess it got to hot. So I talk to peter and he somewhat took care of me but I still had to put another clutch in and buy the new clutch. So I got the 3850n 12cb dd and it is fortunatly the correct clutch for me. Peter won't like me saying this but the con fe is crap Dont waste your money If you ever want to race or do a couple burnouts. Please
#21
I would like to give a little tidbit when it comes to choosing a clutch. In the past few years, torque ratings have been altered. For example, our FE clutch is rated for 550 HP and 1100 ft lbs of torque. That # was 2300 RPM's. Now with the new programmers and new trucks, you are able to produce 1100 ft lbs of torque @ 1100 RPM. It is coming on so hard at such a low RPM that it is kicking the crap out of the clutches. This is the reason I worked so hard on the spring loaded dual disc. The other problem we see with clutch slippage is when it slips. A person is driving down the road in over drive and they slow down or lug it down, then nut it to get back up to speed. You got the power, hammer it. Well if you had an automatic and hammered it at this point, what would the transmission do? It would automatically down shift. Think about it. In the manual transmission you are putting 1000 lbs of torque @ 1100 RPMs in over drive straight through the clutch. If the auto didn't down shift it would slip same as a clutch. The dual disc will not but what will be next. The power is great but needs to be used properly or stuff is going to break. Remember, engines, clutches and transmissions do much better with RPM.
Hope this makes sense.
Peter
Hope this makes sense.
Peter
#23
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Mine seems to hold the power just fine but it has gotten real grabby when I take off from a start. I've put about 300 miles on it and I'm trying to just take it easy on it to break it in right. I try to shift as often as I can. Maybe it will smooth out a bit.
I have a question though. It seems like I only have to press the clutch in less than an inch in order to put it in gear. I like it because it's a good bit harder to press this clutch in than the stocker so that makes it easier on my left leg but I wonder if it may cause me any problems in the future having so little travel. What do you guys think? I have the OFE w/ the solid flywheel and the hydraulic kit...
I have a question though. It seems like I only have to press the clutch in less than an inch in order to put it in gear. I like it because it's a good bit harder to press this clutch in than the stocker so that makes it easier on my left leg but I wonder if it may cause me any problems in the future having so little travel. What do you guys think? I have the OFE w/ the solid flywheel and the hydraulic kit...
#24
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Mine seems to hold the power just fine but it has gotten real grabby when I take off from a start. I've put about 300 miles on it and I'm trying to just take it easy on it to break it in right. I try to shift as often as I can. Maybe it will smooth out a bit.
I have a question though. It seems like I only have to press the clutch in less than an inch in order to put it in gear. I like it because it's a good bit harder to press this clutch in than the stocker so that makes it easier on my left leg but I wonder if it may cause me any problems in the future having so little travel. What do you guys think? I have the OFE w/ the solid flywheel and the hydraulic kit...
I have a question though. It seems like I only have to press the clutch in less than an inch in order to put it in gear. I like it because it's a good bit harder to press this clutch in than the stocker so that makes it easier on my left leg but I wonder if it may cause me any problems in the future having so little travel. What do you guys think? I have the OFE w/ the solid flywheel and the hydraulic kit...
What is the best way to break in the clutch- drive softly and shift lots or....?
Curious to hear from others...
#25
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I was told to shift as much as possible during the first 200 miles and then it should get broken in properly. My first 180 miles was highway but I did sit in a bunch of traffic since I got it installed at Virginia Beach on a Sunday. By the time we got done everybody was heading home from the beach.
I saw another post where South Bend recommended going easy on it for another 200-300 miles if you noticed any slippage after the initial breakin.
I saw another post where South Bend recommended going easy on it for another 200-300 miles if you noticed any slippage after the initial breakin.
#26
Mine seems to hold the power just fine but it has gotten real grabby when I take off from a start. I've put about 300 miles on it and I'm trying to just take it easy on it to break it in right. I try to shift as often as I can. Maybe it will smooth out a bit.
I have a question though. It seems like I only have to press the clutch in less than an inch in order to put it in gear. I like it because it's a good bit harder to press this clutch in than the stocker so that makes it easier on my left leg but I wonder if it may cause me any problems in the future having so little travel. What do you guys think? I have the OFE w/ the solid flywheel and the hydraulic kit...
I have a question though. It seems like I only have to press the clutch in less than an inch in order to put it in gear. I like it because it's a good bit harder to press this clutch in than the stocker so that makes it easier on my left leg but I wonder if it may cause me any problems in the future having so little travel. What do you guys think? I have the OFE w/ the solid flywheel and the hydraulic kit...
Peter
#28
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Need clutch.
Ok I'm looking to get close to 500hp. I want a SB clutch. I either want the FE or a DD. Still debating on that part but, What I need to know is will I need a new flywheel? Or can I just get the MU1947conFE disc and pressure plate and put it on?
#29
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my OFE has been flawless. It held 523 hp on the dyno, and I've since added the smarty and the fuel pump and it hasn't slipped yet. At the time I bought it, I never figured I was going to add many performance parts, but the OFE has far exceeded it's ratings trying to keep up. I'll be going with the sprung hub as soon as I can afford it.
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