My truck has the G56 tranny and about 30k miles. I had just changed the fuel filter in Fort Stockton, TX the day before in preparation for a trip to Tucson, pulling my 30' fifth wheel (est about 12k lbs). Shortly after leaving Ft Stockton on I-10 I proceeded to pass an 18-wheeler (I was going about 60 MPH in 6th gear at the time). As I pressed the accelerator (not too hard) the RPM's immediately shot up to about 2500 and then settled down to the usual 1800 (60 MPH) less than a second later. Well, this had me freaked out because it was Christmas day and not a particularly good time to get stranded in the wilds of TX. The problem occurred again a few more times during my journey, throughout NM and AZ, but not as radically as the first time because by now I was going easy on the accelerator so as not to cause further damage.

Here's the curious thing: up to this time there had been no indication of clutch failure but, the day before, I had changed the fuel filter. Is it possible that the filter change created more power...just enough to reveal a failing clutch? It's probably just coincidence, but I'll let you experts figure that out.

That being said, if I need a new clutch is 30k miles a reasonable expected lifespan of the OEM product? I've never had to have a clutch changed in any other vehicle I've owned for the life of the vehicle. Can there be another cause besides a slipping clutch disc, such as weak or broken pressure plate springs?

I know you guys recommend South Bend Clutch, as well as other aftermarket products but I'm not sure I want to spring for the bucks right now. Besides, I went to South Bend's website and it appears they have no distributor/dealers in AZ, so it looks like it'll be an OEM clutch for me. What should I expect to pay to have the dealer install a new one? (I know I can call the 2 dealers here in Tucson for am estimate but I'd rather get an educated answer from you guys first).

My last question: Would it be a better idea to locate a truck service co. in the area as opposed to having the dealer do the work? I'm concerned about warranty issues since I'm only a temporary resident here in Tucson. Thanks for your help, guys.

 

anything that increases turbo spool up and torque will find your clutch's weakness sooner...

better air filter, free flowing exhaust, a good cold day with super dense air, etc.

if you can get the clutch replaced under warranty, I would definately go that route. I would talk to the service writer and ask if he has a problem replacing the factory clutch with an aftermarket one. If he DOES have a problem with it, just let them install another OEM one to give you more time to shop for a good one later

 

Upgrade opportunity

 

the stock clutch in these truck is known to be a major weakness. i've seen all sorts of lifespans that people get from them. overall though, they don'tlive for long. no offense meant, but if you put a stock clutch back in, your nuts! so what if there isn't a distributor or dealer near you. call southbend or valair up, order a clutch directly from them, and find a competent tech to install it. Dan (owner) at valair went over all of the different options with me over the phone, then recommended an installer near me. the clutch holds seriously now, and will last far longer. if your just towing heavy and have no power mods, then get a nice single disc, and it'll last you forever.

 

i am pretty sure the warranty on the stock clutch is 12,000 miles. chrysler may not be smart enough to design a good clutch, but they're not dumb enough to warranty the stock crapper for long!

 

ford gm and chrysler clutch disc are only under warranty for 12/12

 

i must say, my 2 fords clutches were far better than the dodge. on my first truck it went 120,000 miles then needed a throwout bearing. clutch was still good. second one never had an issue in the 50k that i had it.

 

If the stock clutch doesn’t last long behind a stock 5.9, I’m surprised that it holds up at all behind the 6.7. Then again, isn’t the 6.7 detuned with the manual with respect to the auto? Anyway it is the torque that slips the clutch.

If you are out of warranty then I’d definitely pick up an aftermarket clutch. You could put another stocker back in, but you’ll be replacing it again. I started slipping my stocker at like 60 K miles at ~1800 RPM in double OD with the Smarty Jr (unloaded). Actually the 1st time it slipped was when I was accelerating/passing on the highway grabbing 5th I think. When I replaced it with the Southbend I inspected the stocker and saw nothing wrong with it; nothing broken, not wore out, not glazed.

 

I don't think your fuel filter change had anything to do with it, likely just a coincidence.

The horse power gains would be negligible unless your filter was severely plugged or possibly never changed.

I only change my filter every 15-20,000 miles and notice no difference in the performance of the truck.

That sucks that your stock clutch is slipping allready, so far mine has been flawless and I'm really happy with the G56 combo.

When it's time to replace I will be going aftermarket, likely a southbend.

 

I spoke to a professional diesel mechanic today (friend of a friend) and he's going to check it out for me prior to going to the dealer. He mentioned that a rear seal leak could be the problem and he's going to let me know. If that's the case then warranty should cover it.

As far as an aftermarket clutch goes, I've been in touch with Valair (Dan) via e-mail. I'll also check with South Bend (I think they took a long weekend off). I do agree that an aftermarket clutch is probably best, especially since this mechanic friend is able to install it. We'll see what he comes up with. In the meantime, the truck runs very well as long as I'm nt towing, so I don't think it's going to leave me stranded just yet.

 

Yesterday, I had a mechanic friend try to inspect the clutch for wear. He removed the inspection cover and tried to use his boroscope (a special tool with a light on the end) to inspect the clutch lining. According to him, he couldn't do it because, even with the clutch pedal depressed, the disk remains within a depression in the flywheel and can't be observed without complete disassembly. At least he didn't see any evidence of oil leakage, which eliminates that as a possible cause of slippage. I'm going to tow again in a few weeks and see what happens. Maybe it was only a fluke that has gone away (wishful thinking, i know...)

 

Hmmm, wonder if that's because the Fords don't make any power?

 

it was certainly on par with the power of the other (dodge, chevy) offerings at the time. dodge should have put a clutch in that could handle the power of the motor.