So I've been all over the place on what to get for a truck. I'm close to the point of no return on mine - don't want to invest much more on major maintenance/mods if I'm just going to end up with something else.

Now I'm looking at some mega cabs. Most around here seem to have the 6.7. I'm going to look at one - 2007 with 137k miles. Same miles as my 2003 right now, but the 6.7 is new to me and I'm afraid of all the new emissions junk. I'm also looking at a 6.7 manual with lower miles, but that might be too much $$ right now.

What should I bee looking for on the 6.7 trucks? Both are 2007's. is deleting the emissions stuff a must? What is involved to make the truck reliable and should it last as long as my 5.9?

 

If you delete the emissions stuff you should have a truck that will last as long as the 5.9 will within reason, it is a must to delete but if you have any desire for fuel economy, depending on where you live and your emission testing requirements you have 2 options on how to go about it, read a post in the high performance section called "deleting the 6.7, a guide to making it run right" Blake did a very nice job putting it all together for us.

If they are at a dealer ask them for a repair history, if the 6.7 has had a bunch of trips to the shop then, make sure you get details and ask a few questions. especially injectors, turbo and or emissions stuff.

The 6.7s with a manual trans had a weak clutch, they have been best described on here as "barely adequate" on a good day.

With either truck it will come highly recommended to add some better fuel filtration but that's easy and cheap to do
any other questions feel free to ask, someone smarter than me can help more than I can

 

Read this tread it may help you to understand the 6.7L engine and system better.
Jim W.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...w-t310530.html

 

Thanks for the replies! I'm trying to figure out a better rig for the family. I don't want to give up the 5.9 tried and true, but trying to figure out the bottom line on a 6.7. They seem to be cheaper than the 5.9's around here if you figure for the miles/age. I need something reliable - too much towing with the whole family along through the middle of nowhere. I also don't want to lose too much mileage. I only got about 9.5 towing over 2 mountain passes (8500 lbs, travel trailer). I feel like I should be doing better. If it got any worse, I'd rather get a much cheaper big block truck and be done with it...

 

I was just looking at the pics again of the truck with 137k - There is noticeable soot above the exhaust pipe in one of the pics, but not another of the same area... Does this mean it's already been deleted? Run hard with a programmer? Anything else I should take from this?

It looks like maybe it was cleaned off between pics?!?

 

if it is a 6.7 and there is soot around the pipe then it has been deleted, hopefully properly.

Any chance the seller would provide pics of the exhaust system?

its a horrible thing to suggest but maybe on a test drive take it to a dodge dealer and have them hook it to a scan tool, it would be the easy to see if the parameters in the fuel system indicate a programmer

 

My truck is very similar to a 07.5 Ram with the 6.7L and 68RFE auto in it. My truck is a 08 but built in Sept 07. The truck has 3:73 gears with the 6 spd 68RFE auto and the 6.7L Cummins.

I have towed both ways out west with the emission equipment and deleted. My fuel mileage with the emission equipment with the 5er attached was between 9.8 and 10.7 MPG hand calculated in the mountains. The deleted mileage is now between 11.7 and 12.7 MPG in the western states towing in the mountains. On flat land the mileage is slightly better in both cases.
What I really like about the 6.7L engine is the integrated exhaust brake and the tow/haul mode of the 6spd auto transmission.

Now as far as emission equipment causing issues with the truck I do not see this has a big issue, the truck is now nearly 6 years old and should have all of the teething pains done by now. The only thing that will cause some issues will be the DPF in the future since this is supposedly needs to be replaced around 150,000 miles. This is a service item, who every will be selling the truck have them change this out first before buying the truck. If the truck has been deleted make sure you get the programmer or tuner included in the sale. You will need this to make sure the truck has no future issues.

Jim W.

 

Soot in the tailpipe could also mean a cracked DPF. I've had soot in mine (stock truck) for a few years but truck runs fine and appears to regen normally.