I've been having the issue with the wait to start light coming on at random times along with the ten chimes. It was intermittent, then noticed it was mainly occurring when pulling a load. Now is occurring after about 40 to 50 miles even with just an empty trailer.

My local dealer did the diagnostic work including checking the fuel return rates and says I need to replace all six injectors at a cost of $5,000.00.

So here's the questions I have:
1. I'm supposed to head from MD to WY on Friday to pick up an old truck and trailer it home. Dealer cannot do the job before I leave. Is it safe to still do the trip? I'm trying to line up the dealer in Wyoming to maybe do it in the three days I have in Wyoming.

2. What is a reasonable cost for the job at a dealer? How about the reasonable cost at an independent shop?

3. How hard is the job to do yourself? I am a reasonably competent mechanic but mostly on older stuff. I've replaced injectors on the older style diesels but never worked on the newer stuff. I run an old 4BT in my off road rig.

I'd appreciate any advice I can get. Don't want to end up sitting on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere with a problem that's worse than when I started. Thanks

 

So I did some more reading. The job looks like it's not too bad to do especially with a couple special tools. I still have tho other questions though. I'd appreciate any input.

 

Best advice is to buy new in box Bosch injectors, NOT remans to save money. Remans, even the Bosch certified remans, have the potential to fail and cause severe engine damage, leaving you worse off then before.
That being said, if you can only afford reman injectors, be SURE to buy the Bosch remans.

Aother decent though expensive option is to buy new from BBI…they are NIB Bosch remans rebuilt to Smarty Power specs.

FYI--Todd at T&C Diesel is a reputable place to buy Bosch injectors from…he also REALLY now his way around the HPCR injections systems on these trucks and is readily available by phone to help.

http://www.tcdiesel.com/Pages/contactus.aspx

 

Thanks for the response. I've got them bookmarked.

I also have more info on costs so at this point I'm really looking for advice on whether I should take the trip and get it fixed when I get home or is that too risky?

A decent local shop here has recommended that I get a scan tool to be able to clear and reset the codes, plus use some Stihl 2 cycle oil in every other tank full.

What would you guys recommend. I'm looking at about 2100 miles heading out with an empty trailer and 2100 miles back with a loaded trailer with only about 5500 to 6000 lbs towed weight.

 

I had this issue. WTS light off and on, it would stay on longer and longer... then one evening on the way home from work, I noticed I wasn't building rail pressure and the truck had no response. I got home and smelled fuel, crank case was full. I had a cracked body. I sent my stuff to Don M at F1, he took care of things good. I would recommend getting/renting a injector line wrench, it makes the job a lot easier. I also purchased the connecting lines (goes from the fuel rail line to the injector), there is an updated version, and mine had rust on them from water contamination. Not a hard job to do if you're mechanically inclined, there are tons of injector removal threads and videos on the web.

I wouldn't take the risk. My turbo failed a few weeks after I replaced the injectors, the guys at HTT told me it could have been from the fuel in the oil.

Message me if you have any specific questions, I'll be happy to answer them.

 

Thanks MADHAT. I appreciate the help. You have a message headed your way. I just don't want to make the problem worse. Short story is, I can go back out and haul the old Rover home in the spring if I have to, and just take a car on this trip. Wife may not be happy about that but, oh well.

 

Just tell her you saved 15k by not destroying your engine, maybe she won't be as mad... if that fuel stays in the oil, you'll lose lubrication and burn a bearing or 6...

As far as injectors, I haven't purchased new ones, but you can try OEM... give my buddy Josh a call, 623-two nine eight-1186. He can give you a good price to start from, at least.

 

I am having same issue. I can tell you what your problems maybe. I have yet to fix mine but have part. But this is what your error codes say.

1 Fuel line leaking. (should be easy to see a fuel line leaking}
2 you have a bad feed tube. or didn't seat right.
3 Your FCA is bad (110 online) This causes those errors will also cause rough idles. Depends where you live on how easy of a job. down south simple to replace. Up in salt country. The t25 are all rusted and you need to remove another way

 

 

Gonna play it safe and take the car. I'll probably make another run out there in the spring or maybe even before that to pick up my old Rover.

BigDave, I'm curious why you don't include injectors as one of the possible causes.

Associated with the light coming on and the ten chimes is also a drop in power. I have no reason at this point to disagree with the dealers diagnosis.

I have found a local independent shop that is reputable and will do the job for much less. If I can find the time, I'll do it myself but time is the hard thing to find right now.

Thanks everyone for all the feedback.

 

Because my truck is all over the place after 6 new injectors. You can start it and it will purr. Or it will start up and smoke a bit and stumble and run rough. But put in a high idle it runs great. I get the chimes but zero loss of power. Plus I searched this issue and no one ever came back with bad injector