Post 100K maintenance?
Post 100K maintenance?
Coming up on the big 100K and was wondering about what kinds of things to do to the truck for long term maintenance. So far have done: power steering pump (35,000), rear drive shaft u-joints, front axle end ujoints, ball joints upper and lower front, front bearings. Should I just continue with fluids, or are their things I can be proactive about to prevent break downs? Water pump, lift pump, drive belts, timing chain, do I need to worry about these things? Kind of learning about maintaining this thing as I go so any help would be appreciated.
I plan on continuing the intervals for maintenance that I have in my maintenance book. The only real change for me will be that after my next axle gear lube change, I am DONE with the 15K change interval! I'll change MAYBE every 30K.
I have just over 100k. And I replaced idler pully bearing and replaced belt tensioner, and belt,rebuilt the alternater, valve adjustment in book said 150k but did any way, rear wheel axel seals,thermostat, All fluids. auto tranns band adjustment. lift pump, dicthed the stock one went with GDP with big hose kit and fillter kit. thinking I should get the starter rebuilt, had it in the cummins shop for a fuel system check and had them do a good ones over the engine. I like to repalce thing before they go bad, I hate being on the side of the road and have ford or chevy drive by, Drives me nuts. But this truck has NEVER done that to me yet. And Doing the work myself I learn new stuff and sometimes I have to get new tools to do the job, but it still cheaper than having someone elese do the job for you.
03 QC SB auto 2wd full gauges no cat. paid for.
03 QC SB auto 2wd full gauges no cat. paid for.
Do these alternators go after 100K?, When you did the rear did you do the bearings and inner axle seals? Is it a sealed bearing like the front? How was it changing the idle pulley and belt tensioner? I heard that those two end up going around 100K. Thanks for the info and future info, keep it coming.
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The alternator bearings were bad, Hard to tell when on the truck over the noise of the cummins. I took that to a guy here in town to have it rebuilt cost me $70(canadain) If run till they die it may or may not be rebuildable and it cheaper to rebuild then replace with a new one. The idler bearing was easy just pound out old bearing, loctite outer side of new bearing and press into the pulley. The belt tensioner has a plastic pulley(why i dont know) and it molds around the bearing, but you can just buy a new pulley with a bearing in it. My brother has the same truck and he ground the plastic off from around the bearing, loctite new bearing and pressed it in, 5000miles and still running. But I think its not a good move to do myself. I did change bearings and inner axle seals and the rear end(no the bearings arent a sealed unit) and I did the bearing and seal on the pinion.I did those becouse I havent done anything to the rear end but change the oil in there since new, so I figured why not parts are cheap.
03 3500 QC SB auto 2wd full gauges no cat. paid for.
03 3500 QC SB auto 2wd full gauges no cat. paid for.
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