Hello. I'm away from home and was going to have the wife take my truck in to get the front and rear pinion seals replaced. I know better than to take it to a @#*^$@# ship, but I figured I would have her check around a few places. I would do them my self, there pretty easy, but they are leaking bad and she has been using my truck during the winter months.....so, what is so technical about replacing these seals that I don't know? Knock the yoke out, pull a seal, lose very little gear oil, then repeat in reverse. Pretty simple. Done them before, but not on my 06 Dodge. So, Ford dealer said it would be $80 total. Thought that was a heck of a price. While checking around, I went to the Dodge dealer and they want $408 to do them. 1.5 hours for the rear plus new bolts (dodge recommends them) and 3.0 hours to do the front. They told me that it takes 3.0 hours for the front because they have to calculate steering torque. Doesn't that only come into play if I was replacing the ring and pinion? I'm not really all that knowledgable on front and rear ends, so I'm asking. What is the deal with the calculating steering torque to replace a front pinion seal, that Dodge Dealer wants to do, but Ford says has nothing to do with replacing the seal? Thanks for the help.

 

Anyone? Wife has an appointment to take truck in tomorrow for the $80 price, but don't want to have it done by the Ford shop if the Dodge dealer is right on this Calculated steering issue. Hopeing to get some advice or answers tonight. Thanks

 

They are refering to pinion turning torque. You will need inch pound torque meter to check preload before removing the pinion nut. Since a crush sleeve is used to set turning torque for the pinion bearings. You do not want to increase that turning torque more then a five inch pounds or it will preload bearing excessively and cause bearing failure. Too little and you will have a problem decreasing the bearing life. The nut needs to be replaced since it is a locking type and once removed looses the ability to lock properly and could loosen up on you in time. I also use blue locktite on nut for extra locking strength. The pinion flange will need to use a puller to remove. The teflon sealer on the splines prevents the flange from coming off easily. New sealer needs to be applied when reinstalling. ANy groove in the machined surface will need to be polished out with crocus cloth or seal will start leaking again in a short time. It is not a difficult job but care must be taken to do it right. If the bearing preload is excessive you will be replacing the bearings in a few thousand miles then. If you are interested in the factory recomended procedure I can post that for you but doubt tech will follow procedure to the letter thats why they only charge $80 you get what you pay for.

 

This is procedure for front diff the rear is similar process, I use total turning torque, the wheels and brakes need to be removed. The idea is not to exceed the turning torque by more then 5 inch lbs when tightening the pinion nut. If you go excessively tight with the bearing preload loosening the nut is not recommended or advised. I new crush sleeve will need to be installed then. By the way if the mechanic uses 1/2 impack gun to tighten pinion nut you can be sure you will be needing new pinion bearings in a few thousand miles or less. These diffs are bullet proof but need to be set up properly to go 100k miles or more.

1. Install new pinion seal with Installer 8882 (2) and Handle C-4171 (1).
2. Apply a light coat of teflon thread sealant, to pinion flange splines.




3. Install flange on the pinion shaft with the reference marks aligned.
4. Lightly tap pinion flange onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.
5. Install flange washer and new pinion nut.
6. Hold flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play is taken up.




7. Rotate pinion flange (1) several times to seat bearings.
8. Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) with an inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotate should be equal to recorded reading plus an additional 0.40-0.57 N·m (3-5 in. lbs.).
9. If torque to rotating is low, tighten the pinion nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved.
10. Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion torque to rotate again.
11. Install axle shafts and hub bearings.
12. Install propeller shaft with reference marks aligned.

 

HUGE help. Thank you very much. Guess that $80 was too good too be true. Thanks BigIron

 

Anyone know of a DIY for the rear pinion seal?

 

Right after the dealership installed my new seal I installed the free spin hubs. The seal doesn't leak and never will due to the front drive shaft no longer spins except in 4x4 and to move the oil now and then.

 

Never cost me over $300 to have the front and rears replaced.

 

On Friday, I went in and questioned Dodge about the $408 price, and they basically said that it is what it is. Thats the price. Went back over to Ford and spoke with a Tech thier, who is a pretty good friend. He said of couse we calculate turning torque, its a Dana axle. We have too. And the price of the $80 is pretty much still the same. Thats for the labor and seals, but they said it will be another few bucks for new nuts. Recommended I have them changed, as did the Dodge dealer. So, it will be under $130 max for parts and labor. Not sure how thats even possible at $65/hour rate, but I'm not gonna fight that price. Can't complain.

 

I've had it done a couple of times.
The biggest part was the special puller.
They used an impact off then on.
I had to have the flanges replaced as the original seal grooved it just enough that the new ones leaked. They were about $25 apiece.
No problems since!