SDHNTR

I have a measly 42K miles on my truck. I just had the 3rd pinion seal put in my front axle a few weeks ago. Now I just noticed that the back one is leaking. Since the repairs are on my dime now, I'm getting pretty tired of this. I've had trucks of all sorts all my life and only once have I ever changed a pinon seal in all of them. This truck eats them for breakfast. Frustrating! What gives? Why do these things wear out so fast? Is there anything that can be done to make them last longer?

wiskeyVI

I made it 50k and mine is now seeping...

cody459

Mine looked like they were seeping the moment I drove it off the lot, never was more than slightly wet at the top. One day I was looking and notice the blow by tube was aimed right at top of the diff, so I put an extention on the tube and now doesn't look like it seeping.

Colo_River_Ram

What does the surface look like on the companion flange? if it is rough where the seal rides on it you need to replace it or put a speedy sleeve on it. also when installing a new seal you need to put a film of grease between the 2 lips of the seal as this is the only lube that it will get during its operation..

My 5500 front pinion seal was leaking as soon as i got home from the lot with it, the replacement is doing fine 8,000 miles later..

Pull Ya

Last week we replaced the rear pinion seal with a new one from Dodge. Two days later we replaced it again(the new one was leaking). All the surface area were cleaned and checked so I am assuming that the "new" seal was bad. One interesting side note---Auto Zone $40 for the seal--Dodge $11. Same seal-different package.
Jay

Southern Pride

my rear seal is leaking. how hard is it to do the change. just un bolt the drive shaft, then the nut holding the flange on, and then????

Jeff in TD

Some of the rear axles have a "fill line" stamped on them, about 3/4" below the plug. The guy at the dealership tells me that filling above that can cause blown seals.

Colo_River_Ram

Then with a seal puller like this one:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis56750.html

You pop out the old seal, clean out the seal pocket as needed.
Install a small amount of grease in between the lips of the new seal
Hammer the new seal into place without distorting it
Clean and replace the flange.
Install a new pinion nut and re-torque.
Replace drive line

Pull Ya

You may need a puller for the flange. Also don't forget to mark the flangle nut and the flange so when you put it back together make sure the marks line up. Change your diff oil at the same time you do the seal. The (at least mine) flange nut is a 12 point 36MM--be prepared.
Jay

D-Roc

I have also heard and found with many seals gone in my own truck that the Dodge seals are not worth your time, go the highest quality aftermarket you can find...

Ace

Uh, that would be incorrect, and probably why we are seeing so many of them leaking - incorrect installation. Teflon lip seals should be installed DRY.

cody459

Uh, that would be correct the teflon seal needs to be installed dry or otherwise its compromised.

Colo_River_Ram

So do I get some documentation on this prior to putting on the DTR Dunce Hat

shep1

Had my front replace at about 44k they also replaced the yoke and haven't had a leak yet at 56k.Knock wood. Also I've read that you should make sure that the vent hose is clear of obstructions. There's a plastic valve on the open end of the hose that can get plugged with road dirt. I check mine about every three months front and back.