How do you tell if your lift pump is going out??? Mine sounds different than it used to its actually quieter... What are the symptons??? Please help and thanks...

 

The symptom is the engine stops running. It may start again but will only run a short time. At least that's for the old pump. Yours is the new style, in the tank.

 

It's wintertime - colder temps = denser air and denser fuel = quieter mechanical noises - put a pressure guage on it, for peace of mind - should be pumping ~8-9psi - connect the guage to the fuel manager water-drain with a hose and 2 clamps, open the drain for the test

Got a good 30"-0-20psi guage at 'zone, jcwhitney, etc, fer ~30bucks

The stock '05^ trucks will run with failed lift pump, but may 'starve' for fuel at high loading, towing and such - if filtration has been replaced with 2-micron element, engine may starve at low loading, as in simple passenger vehicle use - neither will hurt the CP3 Inj Pump, as it lubes itself first, then feeds the injectors

 

After reading this and your post on another thread, it makes perfect since and you saved me a lot of money I thought I was going to have to spend on a fuel system. At wot mine reads 0-1psi and does not miss or anything and after finding out that even if the pump fails the cp3 will draw fuel through it make me feel better about getting stranded on the side of the road. Thanks for the info.

 

No prob, glad if it helps - the CP3 is fully functional at up to 10"vacuum on the inlet, so there will be few incidents which will not get you home - it will still function above that, which may require running till it stops, wait a bit - if it restarts, run it again, etc - cannot hurt the CP3, as it won't make inj pressure if not enough fuel to maintain 180psi internal lift pump pressure, which includes lube pressure

 

If your lift pump fails very little fuel will be able to get through it, assuming it's a gearotor type pump similar to what been used in other intank pumps for years. The older carter pumps used before were vane pumps and you could suck fuel through them easier than the current type of pump.

 

The in-tank rotary plastic-vane pump for the '05 Dodge Cummins has a simple spring-loaded bypass regulator, dumping excess fuel back into the fuel tank, making it completely flow-thru when fail.

Requires less than 1" vacuum to draw fuel thru the stopped pump, as tested, drawing thru the oem DCX factory fuel manager head with DCX-spec'ed filter as furnished by the friendly boys at MrMoparts.

 

i just noticed on my moms 03 with the filter mounted liftpump that the filter canister is soaked in diesel, the starter has diesel on it and the frame has a bit of diesel on it i looked for a leak and cant find it and the lid is on tight, is this signs of hte lift pump failing?

 

Regardless of what type of pump it happens to be, I have one sitting in my garage(gotta love ebay) and I cant suck air through it, much less fuel. Unless someone has experience to the contrary I'm fairly certain if this lift pump fails the truck wont run.

 

The canister mounted pumps, like on the '04, block the fuel line completely when they stop running. That's why the engine stops.

I have my old pump sitting here and there is no way the CP3 could get fuel through it.

John

 

That is correct, Raspy - and, which caused the VP44 fiasco in the 2ndgen 24v trucks - a coolant system tester, which is a hand-operated vacuum pump, can be used to prove out flow-thru capability.

Can you post pics of your 'Ebay garage pump' Minwy? I posted pics of the oem '06 Dodge in-tank fuel module that I tested and installed - has the DCX p\n plainly visible.

Be interesting to see if we're all on the same page, here, knowwhuttImean?

 

Could this be a leaky injector causing fuel/oil mix to come out the breather? Have you checked the oil level of the truck to see if it's contaminated with diesel?

 

When the engine is cool, clean the filter and area with autozone engine cleaner in the orange\white can - flushes white so it doesn't upset the neighbors, and leaves no residue - let the rinse water dry,then crank the engine, noting where the leak starts

Could be the cap o-ring, could be cracked cap, could be loose banjo fittings, could be leaking seals on the fuel heater or the WIF module, etc.

Clean it up, then look for the leak - much easier to find, that way.

 

Not sure if this will work but here goes. Since I dont have a vacuum gauge at the house, I will say that its about like sucking just served shake through a straw I can get some air to suck through it but its not easy. If a person really wanted to know, they could unplug the pump and see if the truck will run, but its snowing outside so I'm not going to do that right now.

 

That's the one - show'n'tell rules!

Dunno if it's s'posed to be new, but the return appears to have some brown stain, so, if it's used -

If the po was using two-stroke oil additive, the remaining stuff would have thickened as the fuel evaporated, which would take more initial effort

Altho, drinking a milkshake thru a straw is highly subjective - the initial draw, here, requires overcoming the spring-loaded anti drain-back valve, then gets easier.

You can see the same surge on the hand-pump guage

- place it in a bucket of Diesel fuel, plumb the outlet, there on the left in the pic(which you know, but others may not), back into the bucket, power the pump, see if you get clear Diesel fuel circulation - sorta sounds like yours has something in it, like a sticky fuel additive - ours did not.

The Jeep runs with it un-fused - then again, the Jeep ran 53kmi without it, a bunch of those with the EDGE TRAIL module installed, switch mostly in the center position, 2.55\16 Goodyears on it.