In the process of replacing the hub bearing and need to know what size socket to remove the nut. I was told 1-11/16 but after buying one, its too small. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Eric

 

Shoot, I thought it was 1 11/16 too or I'd have looked last night. FWIW, my socket is a little temperamental and has to be rotated and squared up just right to line up. Odd, yes, but true.

 

According to the Dynatrac instructions it is a 1 11/16" 6 point socket. You might just have a build up of rust on the nut, have you tried tapping not to be confused with beating the socket on? I looked in my Dodge manual and it states "use the correct size socket" allot of help that is!

 

I got it, it is 1-11/16. Some of the 'teeth' on the castle nut were bent causing the slots not to line up. After a little coaxing with some needle noses, I got it.


Thanks guys

 

Pretty sure that is the right size, it takes alittle tapping to get it on.

 

Okay now it's my turn, attemping to install ball joints, passenger side axle nut came off with 4ft pipe on 3/4" drive breaker bar, driver side is twisting the 3/4" drive extension with 4ft pipe. Driver side is not left handed is it? I sprayed with PB Blaster and will try again in morning.

 

No it's right handed, an impact gun is your friend. Be prepared to have a very difficult time removing the wheel bearings.


Good luck

 

Thanks Tim, tried impact last night, will try again this morning after PB had a chance to work. Hopefully bearings won't be that bad, they were replaced about 3 years ago under warranty and I don't drive this truck in winter or salt.
Regards,
Tim

 

Job complete, 4ft pipe comes through again along with some famous PB Blaster, great stuff.

 

Mine is 1 3/4.

 

I did my u joints last night-and after I broke the axle nuts loose with a 1-11/16" 12pt socket, I realized that you don't have to even remove it.

If you are changing ball joints, you can leave it assembled & just pull out the bearing, axle ect all in 1 piece.

 

Yes you can do it that way, XRF video shows it being done that way. My concern was re-installing the axle shaft, you need to slide shaft in just right and NOT damage the inner seal, IMHO it was just to much risk. My bearings came out with about a dozen slaps of the knuckle with the tie rod removed, slaps being hard on left turn stop and hard on right turn stop and they just popped out, guess the dealer anti-seized them. AMAZING!!

 

Thats a good deal Nascar, glad it went well for you overall.

 

Not bad at all, bearings and u-joints were still OK but I do need a caliper mount on driver side, seems the pads have worn through the stainless glides and had wore some pretty big groves in the mount bracket, will order new next week. Finally found my clunking noise at slow roll and rough road!!