Rollin' Smoke

Ok guys, be straight with me now. how hard would it be for me to do a valve adjustment on the 5.9? the truck has 134K and to my knowledge has never had a adjustment done. Is there a procedure I can get my hands on online? How long does this process take? Sorry about all the questions. I am mechanically inclined and have a good set of tools so I dont think that would be a problem, unless there is something special I will need!

SSminnow

Will pull from my service manual, give me a few minutes......

SSminnow

Here you go...did not proof read, so may have some extra info in there as well



The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o’clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting
is required.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
INTAKE EXHAUST
0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.
0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.
(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
² INTAKE 0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
² EXHAUST 0.508 mm (0.020 in.) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.



REMOVAL - VALVE SPRINGS AND SEALS
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect rocker housing injector harness connector.
Remove all injector harness solenoid nuts.
(4) Remove injector(s) for cylinder(s) to be serviced.
Refer to Group 14 for injector removal.
(5) Remove the rocker housing.
(6) Remove the rocker arms and crossheads from
the cylinder(s) to be serviced. Mark each component
so they can be installed in their original position.
(7) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B
(Fig. 33), rotate the engine to position the damper
Fig. 32 Measuring Valve Lash - Typical
1 - INTAKE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - EXHAUST
9 - 308 ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL DR
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)
mark in the 12 o’clock position. At this engine position,
cylinders #1 and #6 can be serviced.
(8) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(9) With the damper TDC mark in the 12 o’clock
position, add a paint mark anywhere on the gear
housing cover next to the crankshaft damper. Place
another mark on the vibration damper in alignment
with the mark you just made on the cover.
(10) Divide the crankshaft damper into three
equally sized segments as follows:
(a) Using a tape measure, measure the circumference
of the crankshaft damper and divide the
measurement by three (3).
(b) Measure that distance in a counter-clockwise
direction from the first balancer mark and place
another mark on the balancer.
(c) From the second damper mark, again measure
in a counter-clockwise direction and place a
mark on the damper at the same distance you
measured when placing the second damper mark.
The damper should now be marked in three
equally spaced locations and the damper TDC
mark should be in the 12 o’clock position.
(d) Remove injectors, fuel lines, and high pressure
connectors for every cylinder that requires
repair.
(11) Compress the valve springs at cyls. #1 and #6
as follows:
(a) Remove bolts and injector hold-down clamp.
(b) Using miller special tool #9010, remove injector.
(c) Install the valve spring compressor mounting
base as shown in (Fig. 34).
(d) Install the top plate, washer, and nut. Using
a suitable wrench tighten the nut (clock-wise) (Fig.
35) to compress the valve springs and remove the
collets.
(e) Rotate the compressor nut counter-clockwise
to relieve tension on springs. Remove spring compressor.
(f) Remove and replace retainers, springs, and
seals as necessary.
(g) Do not rotate the engine until the
springs and retainers are re-installed.
(h) Install seals, springs and retainers. Install
spring compressor, compress valve springs and
install the collets.
(i) Release the spring tension and remove the
compressor. Verify that the collets are seated by
tapping on the valve stem with a plastic hammer.
(12) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
engine until the next crankshaft damper paint mark
aligns with the mark you placed on the cover. In this
position, cylinders #2 and #5 can be serviced.
(13) Repeat the valve spring compressing procedure
previously performed and service the retainers,
springs, and seals as necessary.
(14) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
engine until the next crankshaft damper paint mark
aligns with the mark you placed on the cover. In this
position, cylinders #3 and #4 can be serviced.
(15) Repeat the spring compressing procedure previously
performed and service the retainers, springs,
and seals as necessary.




INSTALLATION
(1) Install rocker housing.
(2) Install fuel injectors and high pressure fuel
lines.
(3) Lubricate the valve tips and install the crossheads
in their original locations.
Fig. 33 Rotating Engine with Barring Tool - Typical
1 - REAR FLANGE
2 - BARRING TOOL
Fig. 34 Spring Compressor Mounting Base—Part of
Tool 8319–A
1 - COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BASE
DR ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 309
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)
(4) Lubricate the crossheads and push rod sockets
and install the rocker arms and pedestals in their
original locations. Tighten bolts to 36 N·m (27 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Verify valve lash adjustment (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST
VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Install cylinder head cover and reusable gasket
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) Connect battery negative cables.
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY
DESCRIPTION
The unique intake and exhaust rocker arms have
their own rocker shafts and are lubricated by passages
intersecting the cylinder block main oil rifle.
Crossheads are used, which allow each rocker arm to
operate two valves.
The solid push rods are hardened at the rocker
arm and tappet contact areas for superior strength
and durability.



REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rocker arm/pedestal fasteners (Fig.
36) and remove rocker arm and pedestal from cylinder
head. Mark the arms and pedestals so they can
be installed in their original position.
CAUTION: When removing the rocker arms, the
sockets (Fig. 37) may come loose and fall into the
engine. Make sure they stay with the arm upon
removal/installation.
(4) Lift the push rod(s) up and out of the engine
(Fig. 38). Mark them so they can be installed in their
original position.
NOTE: The #5 cyl. intake and exhaust and #6 cyl.
intake and exhaust push rods must be raised
through the provided cowl panel access holes.
(5) Lift the crosshead(s) off of the valve stems.
Mark them so they can be installed in their original
position.

tritont

I was pretty intimidated the first time I tried it. With a barring tool.... it took me 15mins to check them all. I had to adjust one. It's very simple to do... just follow what's posted above and you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner

Rollin' Smoke

thanks alot guys.....

RDM16CTD

Anyone have more info on the 'crankshaft barring tool #7471–B' - like how much does it cost, best place to get one, any photos?

Thanks

tritont

Cheapest place I found was Cummins, $35.00. You insert it in a access on the flywheel housing right under the turbo to rotate the engine. It's not a must have be sure help turn the crank.

You can use a real long extension on the racket to turn it from the top or if you don't have that, it helps to have someone up top to tell you when you're at TDC

pos dodge

or if its an auto you can take the three bolts out of the bottom holding the cover and use a prybar to turn the teeth on the flexplate. Save yourself $35.00.

RDM16CTD

Thanks for this info - I also found the tool (with a photo) on the Snap-On site (but for $55). Either way, it's a good investment instead of paying the dealer to do this job.

I also found some good write ups on the Geno's site, with diagrams, on how to do the valve adjust procedure.

I'm adding this to my list of 'do it myself' maintenance, altho my 05 probably doesn't need it for quite a while.

pos dodge

you can drain your converter as well.

Rollin' Smoke

can you post the links to those right ups aswell?

raycarlson

forget the barring tool just use the alternator pulley nut and turn it in reverse.it will rotate your crank easily and its right there where your working anyway

tritont

When you have to rotate the engine 360 a couple times.... believe me, the tool is well worth the $35. Hook up your air racket and it's done in no time :-)

I wouldn't want to do it one tooth at a time or have to rely on the drive belt to turn it.

Blueboy

I tried the drive belt, it didnt work. Buy the tool.

05 CTD2500

this link has some nice pictures

http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_910497/tm.htm