Fuel filter tricks
Never wipe the housing out... anything you put in the housing will transfer particles way larger than what is probably left in the housing after you have drained it... Also... after you have drained it I would just reinstall the filter and then bump the key to repressure the system... Filling the housing with the filter out it just as bad as not draining the housing at all.
Also... 12" extension with a wobble adapter for the 1-1/8" will make things SOOO much easier... no weird angles that could possibly crack the cap.
Oilguy
Also... 12" extension with a wobble adapter for the 1-1/8" will make things SOOO much easier... no weird angles that could possibly crack the cap.
Oilguy
Rick
You guys are right it was 1 1/8 but I bought a set up 1 1/2 so I was all set. My fuel filter was a fleetguard that I got at Cummins N.E. I must say the biggest tip was given by Oilguy. The 10-12" extension and the wobble made it simple to get in their. I got a big set of mitts so this made it real easy. I bought this truck used so I am not sure at what interval the previous person before changed it at. The filter was black and disgusting. But I will keep it on a strict oil change/fuel filter change at 8k (running Rotella T Syn) The cap seems to be plastic and cheap. I worry about over tightening it and possibly cracking it.
Oh yeah abd talk about easy. I hated changing my 94's filter. Reaching around the master cylender with a strap wrench then geting my arms scratched up by the brake lines that had plastic wire ties that were cut leaving a sharp end. Look liked I was messing with a cat
Oh yeah abd talk about easy. I hated changing my 94's filter. Reaching around the master cylender with a strap wrench then geting my arms scratched up by the brake lines that had plastic wire ties that were cut leaving a sharp end. Look liked I was messing with a cat
You know, I think I saw in a post somewhere a torque spec for the cap at 24 lbs/ft.
Holy Moly....that's more than a sparkpug on most engines! The first time I changed mine I lubed the new o-ring and tightened the cap down as tight as I could with my fingers on the caps' ribs. Then I took an inch/pound dial-type torque wrench and watched the dial to see where it would start turning the cap. At about 80 lb/in, which is about 6 1/2 lbs/ft, it started moving so I always just tighten it up by hand now and then torque it to 80 with the t.wrench but I have changed it and left it hand tight with no leaks.
Holy Moly....that's more than a sparkpug on most engines! The first time I changed mine I lubed the new o-ring and tightened the cap down as tight as I could with my fingers on the caps' ribs. Then I took an inch/pound dial-type torque wrench and watched the dial to see where it would start turning the cap. At about 80 lb/in, which is about 6 1/2 lbs/ft, it started moving so I always just tighten it up by hand now and then torque it to 80 with the t.wrench but I have changed it and left it hand tight with no leaks.
I tighten it til the lip touches snugly... The o-ring does the work so there is no need to break it off in theretrying to get it tighter.
BigDave12768 it make it nice doesn't it...you can use the fire wall to turn the ratchet against so you don't have to hold it steady in the air. I do a lot of these as it is part of my business... I find as many shortcuts as I can without sacraficing quality.
Oilguy
BigDave12768 it make it nice doesn't it...you can use the fire wall to turn the ratchet against so you don't have to hold it steady in the air. I do a lot of these as it is part of my business... I find as many shortcuts as I can without sacraficing quality.
Oilguy
HTH
Tony
Here is the conversion factor for it... have fun
1 foot-pound force = 1.3558179 N·m
1 inch ounce-force = 7.0615518 mN·m
So... hand tight...
Oilguy
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