Everyone read this,,,you may have a shorted wire!!
That little clip on the 06's is to hold the electronic waste gate wires, and no the 06's were not immune. I cleaned mine up from a leaking oil filter but never wrapped it. Took a little while but it never idled so much smoother, well since it was new anyway.
Thanks I may have the same problem. Truck started like it missed a few times then for over an hour poped and pinged and then wouldnt rev up then more pops and back fired like it was filled with gas but I had drove on this tank for about 75 miles with no problem. During this the engine light came on. Once it stopped the light went off and everything is back to normal. Does this sound like it might be this rubbing wire?
Thanks I may have the same problem. Truck started like it missed a few times then for over an hour poped and pinged and then wouldnt rev up then more pops and back fired like it was filled with gas but I had drove on this tank for about 75 miles with no problem. During this the engine light came on. Once it stopped the light went off and everything is back to normal. Does this sound like it might be this rubbing wire?
I had this same problem on my truck back in July, only it "fixed" itself and wouldn't reproduce when at the dealer. Despite a laundry list of codes, the dealer insisted it was bad fuel, probably water (that somehow was only bad for a few minutes). Someone else on the TDR reported a similar problem so I went looking at the wires by the AC compressor. After unwrapping the electical tape on the harness going to the AC refrigerant pressure sensor (3 wire bundle) I found:

two spots where the +5 volt line (pink w/ yellow tracer) had been rubbing against the AC compressor. I could just see where the insulation had just barely been worn through to contact the wires and short out the PCM +5 volt supply.
The big connector in the picture is the 2 pin that controlls the AC clutch. The wires in question do NOT go to this connector, but a 4 place connector (only 3 terminals are used) just off the bottom of the picture. For reference, this shot is under the truck, looking upwards. The blurry white round thing is the oil filter, and the silver unit is the AC compressor. I had both AC related connectors disconnected as it freed up the harness to work on and repair.
two spots where the +5 volt line (pink w/ yellow tracer) had been rubbing against the AC compressor. I could just see where the insulation had just barely been worn through to contact the wires and short out the PCM +5 volt supply.
The big connector in the picture is the 2 pin that controlls the AC clutch. The wires in question do NOT go to this connector, but a 4 place connector (only 3 terminals are used) just off the bottom of the picture. For reference, this shot is under the truck, looking upwards. The blurry white round thing is the oil filter, and the silver unit is the AC compressor. I had both AC related connectors disconnected as it freed up the harness to work on and repair.
-Steve
QUICK RECAP....
AC HARNESS vs. ALUMINUM AC TUBE
SEE PHOTO PAGE 4
TRANS HARNESS vs. GROUND STRAP
Auto Trans hanging intermittently in 2nd gear - Trace trans harness to where it passes the ground strap... check for short or chafing.
STARTER WIRE vs. STARTER BRACKET
No-start condition - From driver side wheel well - Trace yellow wire from the starter as it passes the starter bracket... check for chafing.
BATTERY CABLE vs. INTAKE HEATER RELAY BRACKET
Check alternator/battery cable (between the battery & air filter box) where the alt/bat cable passes the steel bracket of the heater relay... check for short or chafing.
CROSS OVER BATTERY CABLE vs. AIR BOX PIPE CONNECTION
Check the crossover battery cable where it passes by the pipe and air box connection... check for short or chafing.
AC HARNESS vs. ALUMINUM AC TUBE
SEE PHOTO PAGE 4
TRANS HARNESS vs. GROUND STRAP
Auto Trans hanging intermittently in 2nd gear - Trace trans harness to where it passes the ground strap... check for short or chafing.
STARTER WIRE vs. STARTER BRACKET
No-start condition - From driver side wheel well - Trace yellow wire from the starter as it passes the starter bracket... check for chafing.
BATTERY CABLE vs. INTAKE HEATER RELAY BRACKET
Check alternator/battery cable (between the battery & air filter box) where the alt/bat cable passes the steel bracket of the heater relay... check for short or chafing.
CROSS OVER BATTERY CABLE vs. AIR BOX PIPE CONNECTION
Check the crossover battery cable where it passes by the pipe and air box connection... check for short or chafing.
by reading this post, its as if they had a wire terrorist at work..

HOW MANY MORE ARE THERE THAT WE DON'T KNOW ABOUT...???
I have been having the same problem with my 03' 3500 for over a year.Been to the dealer with no fix.Read this thead yesterday checked my wires today and sure enough there were three wires almost rubbed into against the a/c tube.Thank you very much.
I think I finally found the problem with my truck. It's been in the shop many time's for loss of power, along with many other thing's they could never figure out. This last time it left me stranded on the side of the road. Got it towed to the dealer, and they said it was showing the code for the cam positioning sensor.(041) They said there were 18 other's present as well. They said it was fixed and sent me back out on the road. Fourty mile's later it did it again. Luckily I made it to the next town. I called the local dealer and told him it was spark knocking real bad, and the other dealer had all ready change 2 cam sensor's. He said they have had a lot of truck's with my same problem. He said look at the wire going to the a/c sensore. It could be rubbing on the high pressure line. I looked, and sure enough, there it was. A bare spot rubbed through. I made it to his shop, he taped it up and put a wire loom over it. Now my truck runs better than it ever has.
So, everybody crawl under you truck and see if your wire is rubbing.
So, everybody crawl under you truck and see if your wire is rubbing.

I just had the complete engine wiring harness replaced by warranty and it solved my power surge problems. The truck runs nice and smooth now. I am hoping that it will also get better mpg's now.
I don't see the picture of the problem AC wire, can you repost this guys, thanks
I don't see the picture of the problem AC wire, can you repost this guys, thanks
Reg
Reg
I had this same problem on my truck back in July, only it "fixed" itself and wouldn't reproduce when at the dealer. Despite a laundry list of codes, the dealer insisted it was bad fuel, probably water (that somehow was only bad for a few minutes). Someone else on the TDR reported a similar problem so I went looking at the wires by the AC compressor. After unwrapping the electical tape on the harness going to the AC refrigerant pressure sensor (3 wire bundle) I found:

two spots where the +5 volt line (pink w/ yellow tracer) had been rubbing against the AC compressor. I could just see where the insulation had just barely been worn through to contact the wires and short out the PCM +5 volt supply.
The big connector in the picture is the 2 pin that controlls the AC clutch. The wires in question do NOT go to this connector, but a 4 place connector (only 3 terminals are used) just off the bottom of the picture. For reference, this shot is under the truck, looking upwards. The blurry white round thing is the oil filter, and the silver unit is the AC compressor. I had both AC related connectors disconnected as it freed up the harness to work on and repair.
two spots where the +5 volt line (pink w/ yellow tracer) had been rubbing against the AC compressor. I could just see where the insulation had just barely been worn through to contact the wires and short out the PCM +5 volt supply.
The big connector in the picture is the 2 pin that controlls the AC clutch. The wires in question do NOT go to this connector, but a 4 place connector (only 3 terminals are used) just off the bottom of the picture. For reference, this shot is under the truck, looking upwards. The blurry white round thing is the oil filter, and the silver unit is the AC compressor. I had both AC related connectors disconnected as it freed up the harness to work on and repair.
Man I'm going to be busy! While I'm at it, I may as well clean and grease every connection.
I have just been on a 2 months spurt trying to find out why my truck was setting the cam code every 2 days. I thought it was the TST so I bypassed it then it goes about a week without resetting the light. I replaced the sensor and still kept getting the light my tach has been erratic at idle for about 4 months now. I was just about to take the TST completely off the truck when I decided to search the forums for this code and stumbled upon this thread. I went to check out my truck and sure enough I don't have loom on those wires and I could see where it was chafing the back of the compressor.
I took the factory tape off and inspected the wires and couldn't see anything chafed through to the wire but re-wrapped with tape and stuck wire loom on both pigtails. My truck runs noticably smoother and has more power and the tach isn't jumping around at idle anymore.
I took the factory tape off and inspected the wires and couldn't see anything chafed through to the wire but re-wrapped with tape and stuck wire loom on both pigtails. My truck runs noticably smoother and has more power and the tach isn't jumping around at idle anymore.
I'm going to check my brothers truck for this. He has been having continuing problems with his left headlight not coming on and with his parking lights not going off. Have no idea if this would be connected or not.


