driveshaft u joints?
#1
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driveshaft u joints?
Can you guys tell me how to get the front driveshaft u joints out they don't have clips like all the rest do. Looks like they are pressed in and then a pin going through the end of it. Any thoughts?
#2
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They are pressed in and held by an injected plastic. Some guys heat the yoke with a torch until the plastic comes out (careful they say it can spurt out at you), I used a ball joint press on my rear ujoints and forced them out.
Like this......
Here you can see where the plastic hold it inside the yoke
Like this......
Here you can see where the plastic hold it inside the yoke
#5
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WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES IF YOU ARE HEATING UP THE PLASTIC WITH A TORCH. I personally think heat is the best way to do these, but I do know someone who did permanent eyeball damage when the plastic spurted out.
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so what shafts did they do this to? Should all of them have the wax and if not, then they are not stock u-joints. Just wanting to see which ones have been replaced and which ones haven't.
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Just did my front drive shaft. The front joint from the factory had plastic injected threw the yoke. I heated the yoke with a butane torch and used my otc ball joint press to get them out. The replacements u-joint at the front is precision 354G...... it comes with C-clips that go in the caps inside the yoke. The rear u-joints at the transfer case are precision 354. They have clips that match the factory. That rear double joint is a real bear. Heads up advise.... there is a bearing and cup inside with 28 needle bearings and a spring, with a rubber cup. When pounding out the cups mine fell out. Most of all BIG WARNING the front torx head (t-40) bolts were red loctite in. Used the butane torch the melt the stuff after stripping the head off the first bolt. The rear flange bolts were blue loctite, a little easier.
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