Bottom end looked good, need tips for pulling the head off
#32
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The thicker gskt is for a resurfaced head or deck. Now would be good time to O ring and studs if you are going to hot rod it in future.
Was there any metal stuck to cyl wall? The aluniumum can be cleaned off cyl wall with muratic acid. Sounds like you are doing good. Don't need to hone cyl wall agressivelly. Very fine hone would be appropiate. Got a good torque wrench??
Was there any metal stuck to cyl wall? The aluniumum can be cleaned off cyl wall with muratic acid. Sounds like you are doing good. Don't need to hone cyl wall agressivelly. Very fine hone would be appropiate. Got a good torque wrench??
#33
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Nope nothing stuck to the wall. Yep, I've got a good torque wrench. Is there a troque sequence for the head anywhere on the internet? I also need the values for the head bolts and oil pan bolts.
#34
Check to make sure the rod is straight as well. An out of spec rod will load your piston on one side and cause premature wear. Severely out of spec and you can kiss your rebuild goodbye in no time at all. I would get a new one to be safe. Also measure the crank journal on that rod and ensure there is no damage.
#35
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Doubt rod is bent as wrist pin was still intact. Can be checked at most any engine machine shop if needed. There is a sequence on rod, main and head bolts. Get correct for year as I only have a 2000 FSM.
#36
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Can someone post the torque values for the connecting rod to crank bolts and oil pan bolts? I've oredered a manual but it won't arrieve till next week and I want to put the new piston in and button up the bottom end this weekend. Thanks!
#37
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I agree with this... that injector is destroyed. And I hope you did not lay that head flat on a hard surface, the injectors will hit and mushroom the tips of the nozzle
#38
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Install the rod cap and bolts to the connecting rod. Tighten the connecting rod bolts evenly in 3 steps.
² Tighten the bolts to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
² Tighten the bolts to 60 N·m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
² Rotate 60° clockwise.
For the oil pan:
1. Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use MoparT Silicone
Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent.
2. Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them into place. Slide oil pan gasket into postion.Using a new tube to
block gasket, install and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the
bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube brace bolts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Starting in the center and working outward, tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
Have fun! --Eric
² Tighten the bolts to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
² Tighten the bolts to 60 N·m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
² Rotate 60° clockwise.
For the oil pan:
1. Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use MoparT Silicone
Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent.
2. Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them into place. Slide oil pan gasket into postion.Using a new tube to
block gasket, install and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the
bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube brace bolts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Starting in the center and working outward, tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
Have fun! --Eric
#40
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Thanks for the obvious. The head came out with a crane and then was placed on thick cardboard. Edge Jammers are on order so all the tips will be replaced anyway. Its all good.
#42
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Got it running last night. Runs great! Pulls like crazy, nailing it in third gear broke the rear end out! Very quiet as well compared to my '01. The stick doesn't accelerate as fast due to the clunky shifting but it feels like it would have WAY more pulling torque. It has enough extra grunt that I think it may have a tuner downloaded into it. Anyone know how to tell for sure? I may have to get the dealer to re-flash it to get it out.
Couple questions, it has an aftermarket AFE open element intake. When put my ear close to it I can hear a knock. Anyone else experience this? I've been told its common on some diesels, airbox thump they call it. Thought maybe it was piston knock but I only hear it at the air filter, nothing from the bottom.
How stiff should the clutch be on the 6spd? I find it fairly stiff and wonder if its got an aftermarket clutch in it. Anyway to tell?
Couple questions, it has an aftermarket AFE open element intake. When put my ear close to it I can hear a knock. Anyone else experience this? I've been told its common on some diesels, airbox thump they call it. Thought maybe it was piston knock but I only hear it at the air filter, nothing from the bottom.
How stiff should the clutch be on the 6spd? I find it fairly stiff and wonder if its got an aftermarket clutch in it. Anyway to tell?
#44
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Piston/rings, cylinder head, new Jammer nozzles to replace the crushed tip on the #1 injector. New fluids and gaskets where needed. I figure I'm into it for about $3000 in parts so far.
Stills needs a new steering box(leaks) and a performance box(edge J/A). Also I think I'll send it to the dealer to get the ECM reflashed. It pulls REALLY hard, harder than I think it should stock so I think the PO had a tuner program downloaded into it.
Stills needs a new steering box(leaks) and a performance box(edge J/A). Also I think I'll send it to the dealer to get the ECM reflashed. It pulls REALLY hard, harder than I think it should stock so I think the PO had a tuner program downloaded into it.
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