Bottom end looked good, need tips for pulling the head off
09-28-2008, 04:35 PM
#18
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Need to have cyl inspected for crack and for out of round or taper. You May luck out and be able to put new piston in hole. Find a used or reman head if possible. There should be some out there.
There is a good chance that parts went into turbo and ruined it. The exhaust manifold, and intake plumbing must be inspected for debris. This would certainlly include the cooler. Are there any signs debris got into other cylinders? If there is any change that other pistons got beat, you must pull and replace. Rings stick or break is reason.
The guy sure lied about running fine till shut down. It ran for some time to accumulate damage. Typical however from experience.
There is a good chance that parts went into turbo and ruined it. The exhaust manifold, and intake plumbing must be inspected for debris. This would certainlly include the cooler. Are there any signs debris got into other cylinders? If there is any change that other pistons got beat, you must pull and replace. Rings stick or break is reason.
The guy sure lied about running fine till shut down. It ran for some time to accumulate damage. Typical however from experience.
09-28-2008, 04:43 PM
#19
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This is *way* beyond a dingle ball and re-ring hone and rebuild.
I'd go to a Re-man RV head for the top end.
For the short block, I'd want a properly machined bore and oversized piston/ring set. If you can find a .010 or .020 over piston/ring stack and hone the bore to fit, I'd go that route.
That one cylinder will be slightly off balance, but not enough to cause problems unless you're spinning huge RPM.
jmo
I'd go to a Re-man RV head for the top end.
For the short block, I'd want a properly machined bore and oversized piston/ring set. If you can find a .010 or .020 over piston/ring stack and hone the bore to fit, I'd go that route.
That one cylinder will be slightly off balance, but not enough to cause problems unless you're spinning huge RPM.
jmo
09-28-2008, 05:17 PM
#20
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"PO said that he just stopped for a coffee and when he came back out it wouldn't turn over."
do you believe that?
i think the engine started hammering and blowing smoke so he turned down his stereo, stopped, shut it down and checked the oil then it wouldn't start
..... my wife had a similar experience with a 1980 Honda.
she was going to work on the freeway doing the speed limit, stereo on , she noticed in her rear view mirror a lot of smoke and a drastic loss of power, so she pulled over, raised the hood but couldn't see any thing.( she said she didn't hear any thing)
tried to start it, but it wouldn't turn over........
i retrieved the car, and found # 1 piston was not there,
apparently it too ate a valve. but it destroyed the engine.... i replaced the engine with a junk yard unit, and drove it another 100,000 miles
do you believe that?
i think the engine started hammering and blowing smoke so he turned down his stereo, stopped, shut it down and checked the oil then it wouldn't start
..... my wife had a similar experience with a 1980 Honda.she was going to work on the freeway doing the speed limit, stereo on , she noticed in her rear view mirror a lot of smoke and a drastic loss of power, so she pulled over, raised the hood but couldn't see any thing.( she said she didn't hear any thing)
tried to start it, but it wouldn't turn over........
i retrieved the car, and found # 1 piston was not there,
apparently it too ate a valve. but it destroyed the engine.... i replaced the engine with a junk yard unit, and drove it another 100,000 miles
09-28-2008, 05:27 PM
#21
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This is *way* beyond a dingle ball and re-ring hone and rebuild.
I'd go to a Re-man RV head for the top end.
For the short block, I'd want a properly machined bore and oversized piston/ring set. If you can find a .010 or .020 over piston/ring stack and hone the bore to fit, I'd go that route.
That one cylinder will be slightly off balance, but not enough to cause problems unless you're spinning huge RPM.
jmo
I'd go to a Re-man RV head for the top end.
For the short block, I'd want a properly machined bore and oversized piston/ring set. If you can find a .010 or .020 over piston/ring stack and hone the bore to fit, I'd go that route.
That one cylinder will be slightly off balance, but not enough to cause problems unless you're spinning huge RPM.
jmo
but i would consider a bore and dry sleeve in # 1 just to keep it std
09-28-2008, 06:36 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
Sorry I didn't get any pics of the cylinder but it sure looks good to me. I'll borrow a bore gauge and see how it is. Where would one buy that RV head you were talking about? How does it different from a stock head? Also when you buy a reman head from Cummins does it come loaded with valves/springs/rockers?
09-29-2008, 05:50 AM
#24
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Sorry I didn't get any pics of the cylinder but it sure looks good to me. I'll borrow a bore gauge and see how it is. Where would one buy that RV head you were talking about? How does it different from a stock head? Also when you buy a reman head from Cummins does it come loaded with valves/springs/rockers?
Look here:
http://www.cummins.com/cmi/content.j...menuIndex=none
If the bore looks good to you, have at it. It's at least get some instrumentation on it, though. The eyes aren't as precise as an engine needs.
jmo
09-29-2008, 06:35 AM
#25
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Might as well be checking on at least one new injector. That one looks toast. Probably wouldn't hurt taking all of them out so there's no chance in damaging them if they're not already.
09-29-2008, 12:02 PM
#27
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From my 2000 FSM:
Max std bore = 4.0203
Max out of round = .0015
Max taper = .003
Displacement has not changed so relativelly sure bore specs have not changed. Someone else can chime in with specs if found different.
Keep the faith. The solutions are out there.
Max std bore = 4.0203
Max out of round = .0015
Max taper = .003
Displacement has not changed so relativelly sure bore specs have not changed. Someone else can chime in with specs if found different.
Keep the faith. The solutions are out there.
09-29-2008, 08:15 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
Just measured it up, its within specs. Thanks for the numbers!
Where do I find the engine serial number? I cann't seem to find a CPL tag on the timing cover like my old truck had.....
Anyone know if pistons from a 12V motor will fit? Found a set for cheap....
Where do I find the engine serial number? I cann't seem to find a CPL tag on the timing cover like my old truck had.....
Anyone know if pistons from a 12V motor will fit? Found a set for cheap....
09-30-2008, 10:59 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ordering some parts today, there are two head gaskets available, 1.18mm and 1.25mm, any advantage to one or the other or go with what was in there?