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Battery drain

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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #1  
HudsonValleyRam's Avatar
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From: Hudson Valley,New York
Battery drain

I posted on here back in July about a key off battery drain. I finally gave up a took truck to dealer. They had for 2 weeks and said there was no problem, and there wasn't. For the next 3 months or so, all was fine. In November problem came back and is still here. I have disconnect installed under hood in smaller lead to fusebox. As long as I switch to off when truck is not being used, batteries stay fine. If left on, batteries die overnite. I just borrowed a better amp meter, (inline) and draw is 2.99 - 3.04 and drops to 0 when I open disconnect.

Any ideas?
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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Utundra's Avatar
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Maybe as a start, with amp meter connected start removing fuses one at a time. Try to isolote what circuit is drawing that many amps.

Just a wild guess...ignition switch?

Hope this helps!
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 05:18 PM
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BigIron70's Avatar
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Read this might be your problem.
**2000 - 2002** (BR/BE) Ram Truck
The door locks will intermittently lock and/or unlock without any activation of the power
door lock switch or a clicking sound may be heard coming from the power door locks
(repeated locking or repeated unlocking). The condition may occur more frequently in damp
conditions such as driving the vehicle in the rain or taking the vehicle through a car wash.
DIAGNOSIS:
Vehicles that demonstrate this condition may have water weeping into the door/liftgate lock
cylinder switches causing the switch to intermittently short across the internal circuit. This in
turn may signal the Central Timer Module (CTM) to activate the power door locks. Because
of the nature of this problem, it is extremely difficult to diagnose this condition. Therefore,
customers that indicate their doors intermittently lock and unlock without having the door
lock switch activated or customers that indicate they hear a repeated clicking noise coming
from the door locks should have the Repair Procedure performed on their vehicle.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 09:28 AM
  #4  
Jeff in TD's Avatar
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From: Oregon
I second the suggestion above. Install amp meter between negative cable and negative post, and disconnect things until the draw goes away.

I think I would start with the ignition switch, as there have been posts about it being a problem.

Key off drain should only be a few miliamps.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #5  
markshop's Avatar
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From: burlington wi
Try disconecting the alternator. I just repaired that problem on a ford truck. Stuck diode in alternator. Draw was 2,89 amps. replaced alternator draw gone,
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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pwregan's Avatar
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From: plymouth, mass
alternator draw

Markshop,
when you say start with thealrternator how did you isolate it?
unplug it from wiring harness?
i have a truck with a draw down and was wondering how to test or isolate the alternator

thanks,
Patrick
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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HudsonValleyRam's Avatar
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From: Hudson Valley,New York
The draw is in the 20 amp IOD fuse. With fuse out, draw is .21 amps. Can I drive truck with this fuse pulled? The radio does not work dash displays "nofuse" where the mileage should be.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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gofastman's Avatar
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From: Alabama
Here is one for you to think about....mine did the same thing ...came out one morning and found the truck dead....i pulled batteries put them on a slow charge all day, came home installed batteries , truck fired and thought well that was weird....so i went inside the house....2 hrs later my nieghbor came over and my park lights were on....found it to be in the front comp bus connection to the fuse box....it had gotten wet in there im guessing from the car wash. just a suggestion
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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Saw you narrowed it to which fuse it was, did you find out what and why it was causing the draw. I am having difficulty with an '05 1-ton. Same exact symptoms that you had.
Thanks,
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 11:57 PM
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From: Texan living in the eastern settlement known as Georgia
I don't know if it is on that fuse, but my electric cooling fan clutch went out and drained my Optimas to below 4 volts in a day.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #11  
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I found my problem. When the radio was hooked up (it is the stock radio) there was a 4amp draw on the battery. The odd thing is that it didn't do it all the time. Sometimes there would be less than a 1amp draw then later you chould check and there would be a 4amp. If the radio was unplugged the draw went away, when plugged back in it was there, go figure. Time for a new radio.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 06:47 AM
  #12  
WL.'s Avatar
WL.
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From: Nashville TN
Please please please be it

I have been fighting this same problem for 6 months now. Went out and the Optimas were dead. Found a loose cable on the battery, charged them, tightend everything, been good for three months......until yesterday. Cables were all tight but dead. Hope it is as easy as the radio......cant hear it anyway after the lose of that kitty and muffler. Guess I will be pulling some fuses this weekend!
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