I had a kill test done a month ago #3 and #4 were at fault. Replaced the tubes a couple weeks ago, had another test done yesterday morning. Same results this time, so it's ruling out a real bad high pressure fuel leak. Speaking of rail pressure, it does jump from 6000-7000 psi at idle.

I do plan on removing those two injectors and having them checked on a bench to see what the story is. Could a plugged nozzle cause it?

Truck starts fine, runs fine, has good power, mileage is decent. No white smoke on start up, no rise on the stick. I do have a little soot sticking to the bumber, which I believe is from a nozzle not spraying right.

 

If pressure is jumping more then 500 psi at idle you could have FCA problem also. Does fuel pressure read 0 psi key on engine not running? PLV tests good no leakage?

 

It reads a steady 20 w/ the key on (probably from the aftermarket lift pump). I replaced the sensor cause it jumped back and forth from 0 to 20. FCA is new. It made a heck of a difference when I changed it. Throttle response was back to normal, no more surging at idle at a stop sign. Never did check the PRV though (truck started so good, didn't really bother).

I got the injectors out here a bit ago, and I didn't see any fuel cuts on the body where the tube mashes in. However, the entire nozzle on #4 was plum caked in soot. #3 looked normal, well as far as the eye can see anyway. I'm headed to Dickinson, ND (ABC Diesel) to have them tested on a bench. See if the nozzle is indeed plugging or plugged off and if the body does have a microscopic fuel cut.

 

Very important to follow steps when replacing injectors.

Tightening Sequence: a. Install fuel injector holdown clamp (mounting flange) bolts. Be sure the clamp is perpendicular to the injector body. Do a preliminary tightening of these bolts to 5 N·m (44 in. lbs.) torque. This preliminary tightening insures the fuel injector is seated and centered.
b. After tightening, relieve bolt torque, but leave both bolts threaded in place.
c. Install high-pressure connector and retaining nut. Do a preliminary tightening to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.) torque.
d. Alternately tighten injector holdown bolts to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) torque.
e. Do a final tightening of the high-pressure connector and retaining nut. Tighten to 50 N·m (37 ft. lbs.) torque.

8. Install integrated gasket
9. Connect injector solenoid wires and nuts to top of injectors . Tighten connector nuts to 1.25 N·m (11 in. lbs.) torque. Be very careful not to overtighten these nuts as damage to fuel injector will occur.

 

I got the torque part down. Injectors tested good (had them bench tested). They were over fueling a little bit, but the return was right on spec, and so was another aspect. I ohm tested the solenoids before I took off out of town, both were .6

I'm going after another PRV and integrated gasket. I'm hoping the gasket is a majority of the issue.

I'm going to be away for an hour or so, if someone could help me lead myself to the right track, call or text me @: 4 zero 6 - ate 5 two - 3 ate two 4. Thanks for the help.

 

What I thought were two good injectors, are now needing replaced. I showed the specs to a diesel mechanic that use to work for Chrysler. Fueling @ 650, they both were at 54.5 and the max is 50. So they were over fueling a tad too much.

 

The fuel return is perfect, so I'm wondering if I can replace just the nozzles.

 

Forget the nozzles. I realize F1 has a 2 week + turnaround. I'm going to send my bad two in for a reman, and the other 4 to have checked. What is their address?

 

you have to go through an F1 dealer. I have had great luck with Rip at source automotive. I just had a #2 injector go bad and Don sorted me out in less than a week.

 

Also forgot to mention that my PRV was bad, so that explains the rail pressure jump. I found a diesel shop on Ebay that's based out of Missoula, MT. They carry the new style Bosch injectors. Cummins from Billings, MT has a loaded fuel rail for $300. So, I'm only going to do the 2 injectors, the rail, and get a rail pressure gauge, along with 2 fuel pressure gauges. One before the filter, and one after.