My factory trans cooler lines began to leak, after 324,000 miles, so I replaced them today. I used brass fittings and rubber trans-line. Should I have used steel fittings? (Couldn't find any)

I routed the trans lines a little differently than the factory. I ran the pressure line in front of the engine oilpan sump--seemed like the way to do it. It's not touching the oil pan. And I'm trying to make sure they are securely tied down. Any other tips?

 

I may be wrong, but I think the steel lines would dissipate more heat than rubber.

The only other thing I can think of is ensuring enough slack for high torque applications!!

Dad's let loose on his 94 in the Nevada desert in '98, the dealer replaced the plastic fittings with brass....

 

Bill Fleming sent me a PM a couple of years ago about using rubber lines.

But the problem I'm having now is how to bypass the trans temp sensor so I can stop driving around in 3rd gear. With the sensor (the one in the stock lines) disconnected it won't shift out of 3rd gear. Until I can come up with a fix I'm limited to about 45 mph. Anybody have a good fix?

 

Unplug the sensor and bridge between the two wires with a 1000 ohm resistor (25¢ - Radio Shack)
Leave the sender disconnected.
This tricks the computer into thinking the fluid is up to operating temperature.

 

Thanks Bill. I was hoping you'd chime in. Right now I just pulled the sensor from the old lines, taped it to the new lines and plugged the sensor in, but I'll get the resistor and do it that way.

 

Bill, I went to Radio Shack and they had 3 types of 1,000 ohm resistors. 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt and 1 watt. My guess was that the 1 watt resistor would be the best, but maybe I need something that will take more watts. Do you happen to know?

 

It doesn't matter, any wattage will work.

 

I got the 1 watt this morning, put it in, and it works great! Thanks Bill.