I followed the pictures and changed the core in no time at all. I removed fitting in the engine head to see if it was plugged. I found that the hole was only about 1/4 inch at the bottom of fitting. I drilled out to size of the end of fitting, this should help with the water flow i think. Lots of heat now.

 

I was told today that the fitting has a small hole to allow for engine warm up. I guess i will find out when i start it when cold.

 

i need to replace my heater core. I was wondering before i start, do you have to remove any of the plastic around the gear shifter, I have a 2001 with the 6 speed manual. is there another instructional for a stick.

thanks
Joe

 

It seems I had to remove the plastic from around the shifter to access the 2 bolts that connect the lower dash to the shifter plastic. Seems the boot has to be disconnected and placed up the shifter handle to access the plastic piece screws.
All help gratefully accepted.

 

Had to replace my heater core today... it was peeing flourescent green juice onto the floorboard. I did the cut & splice method. The Dodge dealer quoted me $1000 to replace the core and couldn't get to it until next Wednesday. I was able to do it in an afternoon for $71. The wiring and such to the gauges on my pillar pod were an added effort. I could not lay the dash back without removing the gauge pod. All in all, it took me about 5 hours.

Now, I'm still trying to remove the nasty anti-freeze film all over the inside of the windshield. I was using the defroster when the heater core blew and it fogged the entire inside of the windshield with anti-freeze.

 

While on problems, what do you do to remove the antifreeze smell from the heater box & duct work?

 

If you take the heater box all the way out, you could wash it out. When leaving the box in, I stuck the shop-vac hose down into the box where the core sits and sucked out what I could. The rest of it? Time. I wadded up a frabic sheet and stuck into one of the floor heat duct openings, so at least it smells a little better in the cab. Who knows... maybe it will take the wrinkles out of my seats too.

 

My dad has this truck now. 4 years later and still no leaks and have never had to retighten it.

 

Thanks for posting this shortcut cLAYH !!!!!
It saved me a bunch of time and trouble

 

I agree with the re-core of a brass and copper tank. I also agree with double clamping - it's the standard in marine use. I also agree with thinking outside the box. I wouldn't be on this site if I didn't. And I wouldn't have had some of the most fun vehicles of my life - 327-375hp fuelie in an MG-TF, Corvair 140 in a Porsche Roadster, blown hemi in a Glen L an Porsche Super 90 in a 13 foot Checkmate... oh yeah, and an 11 second Excelsior Henderson and a Triumph powered Whizzer....

 

What, no vids of the 11 second Excelsior Henderson or the Triumph powered Whizzer...???
Not fair!

 

You're telling ME! To my great regret, I wasn't taking pictures before the era of the cellphone. I have NO pictures of the Whizzer or of my Fuelie Vette powered 55 MG-TF, and I can't find any friends or family that have any either.
But I believe the EH is on the page I have all of my latest motorcycles on. http://www.labradoodlepuppy.net/home

 

Looks like time has told. 5years later, still no leaks, evap is still fine. Never had to re-tighten clamps.

 

I'm 2 years in. No re tightening and no leaks to date. I think this method is plain old good advice.

 

I'm only 1 month in but I agreee