If you guys get the swivel type heater core you don't need to cut the tubing or take the HVAC box out. It's a narrow fit but it will clear.

 

To-MAY-to - To-MA-to.

Do what works for YOU, and lets you sleep at night........

Thanks to the OP for the thread and pictures.

 

Indeed... It's a very helpful thread.

 

Maybe these are dumb questions but....

Is all this info applicable to all the 2nd gen trucks? I have a 1997 but note some of you have later than the 1998 1/2 trucks. What years is this applicable to?

Another question: Doing it this way can you avoid disconnecting the wiring, speedo, vacuum lines, etc., etc., etc..... to get the dash down? This part is not mentioned in the original post or any of the later postings.
Thanks.

 

Applicable to '94-'02 trucks

 

Thanks Infidel.

Bump the second question...anyone? Sure would like to have a detailed run down on what does have to be disconnected.

 

You can leave the speedo cable intact. Wiring is just a connector so you don't have to cut anything. Vacuum lines go to the HVAC box, which remains untouched.

 

Thanks Wcbcruzer. Are we talking about just one connector or more? Where are they..or it? Can you identify them for me? I assume you do have to disconnect the HVAC box vac. line? Looks like I have to do this job or freeze all winter. Thanks!

 

TRJ, it's been about 10 years since I had a dodge dash down and when I did them I did a bunch. But if memory serves me correctly you only have 1 or 2 main connectors on these trucks. Like somebody said, pulling a dash on one of these trucks is simple. Maybe 4 main bolts on the sides, some screws across the top but nothing major. Pull the driver seat all the way back, drop the steering wheel and wedge it down to the seat.

This looks like a good write up. Seems like something I would do without worries. But my truck has nearly 200k, my a/c needs a recharge every year so I'm thinking when I get a chance I'll drop in a new core and evap just cause I'm there. If not for the evap I'd do the hoses.

 

OK thanks for the input. I guess I'll find them when the wires, etc. start getting stretched. I just love crawling around under a dash!

Any recommendations on brands of heater cores? Any better than others?

 

this should be a sticky...

 

I agree!

 

This is the bottom cut open.

 

I'd double clamp it. I blew a single clamped non-swedged radiator pipe on my mustang at Thunder Hill. It's been fine since with two clamps on each end.

On this same mustang we just replaced the heater core. I took the old one to a radiator shop and they reused the copper end tanks, silver soldered the pipes to the tank, re-cored it with a proper copper core and we're good as new. The thin cheesy $20 aluminum heater cores have very thin joints where the pipes intersect the tank and I just didn't trust them. The re-core was $85.

 

I cut the pipes when I changed my core this summer. There wasn't enough room to double clamp each end on both hoses so I only used a total of 4 clamps. The old core had leaked into the box & I continued to smell antifreeze. The smell has almost cleared up but not quite. I haven't put a lot of miles on.

Be sure to check the compressor before doing the core. My compressor is making a noise. It may be the clutch, bearings or something internal. IF I end up changing the compressor, I could have done all to begin with. I'll run it until it breaks because winter is here & there are other things that need attention.