Quick way to change heatrer core(2-3hours)
 

As mentioned here before the core can be replaced much quicker by cutting the tubes and then splicing them back together with heater hose and clamps. This eliminates removing the heater box, draining the coolant, or discharging the AC system.

Didn't even have to open the hood.

I was quite surprised how quick the dash came out, bunch of screws on top near the windshield(Cordless drill with extension made quick work of them), 2 big bolts on each side of the dash just underneath and then some screw in the center on the floor and drop the steering column, 3/8s impact for that. Take the glove box right out.

Attachment 74514

Dash held back with strap to upper door latch
Attachment 74515

Cut off with air powered cut off wheel. I spent some cleaning up the ends of the cut tube with a round file and coarse emery cloth.
Attachment 74516

I lost about a cup of coolant (which was easily soaked up with some paper towel) plus what was in the core.
Attachment 74517

Attachment 74518

I tightened the hose clamps with a 1/4 ratchet and socket to make sure they were good and tight.
Attachment 74519

Attachment 74520

Nice
 

Thats pretty slick. Did mine last march and took five hours or so found that I didn't need to drain the AC dang chiltons manual.

Hmm, good info and pics! Will have to use this in the future!

Napa sells a heater core that has tubes that will rotate around saving on cutting the tubes on the new one, But at the same time what ever makes the job easier good work.

For some reason my local NAPA dealer could not get me a heater core, of any kind, for my '01. Wasn't in the computer or the book. They figured it was a dealer item only so I tried another place. Was weird cause I buy a lot of stuff from NAPA and they are usually really on the ball.

Only problem I see is that multiple heating and cooling cycles expand and contract the hose and hose clamps and then they eventually leak.

I have to constantly re-tighten my hose clamps on my espar unit because of the expansion and contraction.

Good Idea, but it will get you later on. For the extra hour it would have taken to do it right the first time, doesnt make sense to me.

Found your heater core from NAPA in less than 5 minutes.
I guess your NAPA is lazy[laugh]

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...on=Heater+Core

A guy once told me that the heater core could be replaced by removing the glove box, instead of the entire dash. Is this true?

No,
You need to at least pull the dash back.
Its not that bad. It took me less than 4 hours to do it right.
I posted the TDR article about a month ago on a step by step procedure. Search for "I have heat again" Makes it easy.
If you cant find it or dont want to search, PM me your email and I will send it to you.

I read that article, good write up. My friend is telling me that it can be done by removing the lower panels on the dash & had me thinking. I haven't changed mine yet, but I'm not using hose clamps when I do. I don't think they would hold up very well unless you flared they ends of the tubing. Maybe on a DD, but what about high rpm high pressure applications? I think problems may arrise. Just my $.02

What kind of hose clamps do you use? I have had my Espar in for over 2 years,it runs everyday for 2 hours from Nov to April and never do I have to tighten the hose clamps.
PS-I was the one that cut the heater core pipes and posted the procedure on here originaly, about a month or so ago, only thing I didnt post any pics,cLAYH did a fantastic job of documenting the procedure with pics,Thanks cLAYH, just a side note,if them clamps ever leak,which I doubt, just slip the glove box out,reach in with a nut driver and tighten them up, providing you have the hose clamps posistioned corectly and cLAYH does and so is mine.

Re-swivel pipes on Napas heater core, no doubt they are good but remember that those swivel ends have some sort of a seal, probably an o-ring, so as far as leaks go, I have just as much faith in a clamped heater hose as a swivel with an o-ring, in fact even more so, the crimping that holds those swivel ends in leaves a lot to be desired,pretty mickey mouse looking, the core I installed had the swivel ends and I had every intention on installing it as per instructions someone posted on here ,but once I got the dash back,i could see no reason whatsoever to slide the whole unit back and fiddle around trying to manouver those pipes thru the firewall,furthermore the original core pipes had to be cut to get it out anyway, now, if I would have known that I was going to cut the new core pipes and conect them like I did,I would have bought a core like cLAYH did,no swivewls, not needed.
Another thing,(hindsight of course) and I stated this in my original writeup,I would have removed all the original pipes that come thru the firewall and put new long enough hoses thru the firewall and connect directly to the new core with the cut pipes,this would have eliminated one extra clamp on each hose and it would make it very easy to replace the core again in the event of a leaky core or whatever, simple procedure-once dash is lifted,loosen 2 clamps,slide hoses off,lift out core,cut pipes on new core,drop in core,slip hoses on,tighten 2 clamps,done deal, lose a 1/4 cup of antifreeze which you can soak up with a rag, no mess,no fuss,could do the whole deal in a hour or less even.

I'm not worried about the clamps leaking, I tightened them up very tight with a ratchet/socket and can access them thru the glove box if needed. I've never had a properly tightened cooling hose clamp leak because there was no lip on the end, fuel yes but no heater hoses.

You can not remove the heater core without pulling the dash back, the core slides straight up out of the dash and needs about 12"+ of clear space above it to come out.

I've tried those NAPA numbers before without success at my local NAPA here in Canada but I think the Canadian chain uses a different part number system and often sources their parts from different places.

They sell differing grades of hose clamps, I always try and get the HD clamps suited for Silicone hose service, they have a band under the worm drive portion to protect the Silicone hose. They do not seem to ever loosen up.

They are expensive, but worth it IMHO.

Same ones I get. Good old made in the USA stainless steel clamps.

Its probably more like the HD heater hose I used.

I dont care what anyone here says, personally I would take the extra hour and do it right the first time. I would hate to spend 2-3 hours AGAIN tearing the dash apart, having to but ANOTHER heater core, for an extra hour worth of work.

I'm with JLent on this one, if it isnt flared on the ends your looking for trouble.

I guess only time will tell. [coffee]

can the hvac box come off the firewall enough to change the heater core without having to discharge the A/c?