Quick way to change heatrer core(2-3hours)
so when your evap core leaks is everyone going to cut and splice it too. they do make higher pressure hoses and clamps. oh come on do it! when this evap hack is done it might be a good time to replace the heater splices too
Man, if you're into always doing it right, that means you can't use a screw driver as a pry lever, or reverse the blade on a circular saw, or not stop at a stop sign, or never go faster then the speed limit, or use a chest freezer for storing paint, or ......use a grinder without eye protection, or yank an extension cord out of the receptical, or switch lanes without using the turn signal, or park on the white line, or pass in a double yellow.
Keep up the perfect record, I've failed.
I had a 6200 kubota engine that lost oil pressure. I contacted the dealer and their shop said it was a problem they had with an alum. plug which was in the end of the camshaft to seal. After many hours they found the differential in temperature between the alum and the steel caused the alum to come loose. The BOOK said to virtually dis-assemble the engine to replace the cam.
I took the front cover off and welded a tapered roller bearing into the same spot. That took about 3 hours. That was 1986. It still runs with excellent oil pressure.
Point is: Think outside the box every once in a while, it makes life more interesting.
Keep up the perfect record, I've failed.
I had a 6200 kubota engine that lost oil pressure. I contacted the dealer and their shop said it was a problem they had with an alum. plug which was in the end of the camshaft to seal. After many hours they found the differential in temperature between the alum and the steel caused the alum to come loose. The BOOK said to virtually dis-assemble the engine to replace the cam.
I took the front cover off and welded a tapered roller bearing into the same spot. That took about 3 hours. That was 1986. It still runs with excellent oil pressure.
Point is: Think outside the box every once in a while, it makes life more interesting.
Maybe you should just stick to taking your truck back to the dealer so it done right.
Then you won't need to come here to learn different ways to fix your truck yourself. After all isn't that what this board is about?
i do my own work and i also work at a dealer and that has nothing to do with it. basically people can spend 1 more hour and replace the whole heater core. its not that bad. but you can do it your own way, i dont care. i was basically making a joke to spice things up.
Sure you were joking,we all knew that.......................
And then I was thinking, if you only go by the book, you have to be sure to use gaskets where the book says so, don't use any silicone. And only use OEM parts, don't go to NAPA, O'Reilly, Autozone or any of those places.
Jeepers, you can't modify anything if you stick with the book.
Jeepers, you can't modify anything if you stick with the book.
Lets have fun with this. Does DONE right include "flat rate" way of doing things ?
For fun - ....I worked in a dealer ship..and the Flat rate way to R & R a camshaft ( on this kind of car )was take the HOLE saw and make a hole in the fire wall. Pull the cam through there rather then pull the head.............
Was that done right ? LOL
If a shop is Flat Rate...these use every trick they can find.
For fun - ....I worked in a dealer ship..and the Flat rate way to R & R a camshaft ( on this kind of car )was take the HOLE saw and make a hole in the fire wall. Pull the cam through there rather then pull the head.............
Was that done right ? LOL
If a shop is Flat Rate...these use every trick they can find.
I did this repair a few days ago and after reading concerns about hose clamp leaks decided to use the constant tension spring type hose clamps.
Works great and won't leak.
These are the kind of clamps used on all new vehicles because they don't leak. You never see screw clamps on new coolant systems anymore.
Some folks mistakenly think these kind are more prone to leak because you can't reef down on them.
Actually the opposite is true.
Works great and won't leak.
These are the kind of clamps used on all new vehicles because they don't leak. You never see screw clamps on new coolant systems anymore.
Some folks mistakenly think these kind are more prone to leak because you can't reef down on them.
Actually the opposite is true.
^^^ like he said..these type of clamps dont leak, compared to screw type, the heating and cooling (especially in the cold) the screw type only have the tension applied and it stays constant, with the spring type the tension constantly tightens on the hose especially in cold weather, imports (Toyota for example) has been using them since the early 80's, actually might have been in the 70's, I only remember the vehs I had.
there is no way a screw type clamp can apply the same pressure as a properly sized spring clamp, the screw type would be stripped to get the same tension
there is no way a screw type clamp can apply the same pressure as a properly sized spring clamp, the screw type would be stripped to get the same tension
I did this repair a few days ago and after reading concerns about hose clamp leaks decided to use the constant tension spring type hose clamps.
Works great and won't leak.
These are the kind of clamps used on all new vehicles because they don't leak. You never see screw clamps on new coolant systems anymore.
Some folks mistakenly think these kind are more prone to leak because you can't reef down on them.
Actually the opposite is true.

Works great and won't leak.
These are the kind of clamps used on all new vehicles because they don't leak. You never see screw clamps on new coolant systems anymore.
Some folks mistakenly think these kind are more prone to leak because you can't reef down on them.
Actually the opposite is true.



