to change the subject a little, the pic of the dash. it looks like a new dash?

 

Thanks. This truck spends most of its time parked in a garage, and I also have a dash cover which I took off when I did this job. You can see the various velcro tabs stuck on there.

 

Needing to do this myself and was dreading it. Your instructions rock! Thanks tons.

 

You're welcome and I hope it goes smooth for you.

 

I just changed out the heater core on my 1995 truck. Took me 6 hours. Tore up the dash just a little more and I broke a tab off the glove box, but since my mechanic wanted $670 to do the job and I only spent $70, I thought it was well worth it. I did have some trouble getting my dash out of the way. I couldn't lower the steering wheel enough to really pull the dash back. But I got it back enough. I used Breeze Constant Torque hose clamps--I don't think they will be loosening. I got the new heater core at NAPA. I just asked for one to fit my truck and they gave me the one with the swivel connectors. It worked well. I used an angle grinder to cut the tubes. It's NICE not having to smell coolant anymore. I had been smelling coolant for 5 months, but never saw any drips. Glad I got it done. HUGE THANKS to the original poster.

 

I have a new problem tho. When I've got heat on max, and the selector **** for air control on "recirculate", cold air comes out of the holes/crack in the dash, but only when the truck is moving down the road. When I've got the **** on the other settings--where outside air comes through the heater box--no cold air comes from those same places. This probably means that I missed connecting something securely. Any guesses where I might start looking? Also sometimes it takes awhile for the recirculation door to close when I'm driving--sometimes 10 or 20 seconds--this is also new since I did the heater core.

 

Sounds like you didnt realign the vent openings or the seal came off before putting the dash back in place... As for the blend door, take a look and see if its moving like it should. It could be broken/stripped and then you'd need a heater treater to fix it.

 

You might also check the vacuum line from the vacuum pump, next to the power steering pump, to the firewall and beyond for a cracked vacuum line.

 

Wow. Cannt believe this thread is still here, was digging it up for someone who was asking.

Dad is still using the old 2001 as his farm truck. Still no leaks on the clamps, never had to tighten. Evap still holding on.

 

Wow, the thread is stiill going.....0
Yep mine is still holding and the evaporator too.
Thanks again cLAYH!!!

 

Update: After a year the heater hose I used to connect the new core to the old lines began leaking. I took it to my mechanic and paid his price, but he did it right.

 

I did mine 6 years ago. Still going strong.

 

Did mine last month and now will get to do it again as the core from LMC is just slightly oversize and won't drop far enough into the box for the temperature control to function.

 

Well, Dad sold the old dually last month. AC had quit. No idea if it was the evap or something else. Heater core still.workimg fine. Those clamps that people were saying would back.off and leak never did. Considering it was done back in 2009 Id say this was one of my more successful hacks.

 

Mine i still holding, thanks again cLAYH!!!