"99" Front Rotor Removal
#1
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"99" Front Rotor Removal
Does anyone have a link to the proceedure for removing the front rotors? There is a step to use the power steering to press the rotor off and I can't find the pics anymore.
Any other info on front rotor removal would be apprciated.
Any other info on front rotor removal would be apprciated.
#2
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with the truck on jacks, crack the (4) 12 point bolts holding the hub assembly on the backside. naturally make sure your axel bolt is loose as well.
then take a socket and extension, or whatever configuration you need to put on the 12 point bolt, then start truck up, turn the wheel until socket extension contacts frame, this should pop it right off.
then take a socket and extension, or whatever configuration you need to put on the 12 point bolt, then start truck up, turn the wheel until socket extension contacts frame, this should pop it right off.
#3
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#4
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What is the socket / extention end against on the wheel side?? I cannot see anything from that picture to show me where the other end of the extension goes. The explination says remove 3 of the 4 bolts and turn the 4th one out most of the way. Does the end go on the bolt head?
Also, is there a huge difference in replacement rotors? The parts store has 2 kinds, one for $40, one for $70 life time warranty. Any suggestions on rotors?
Also, is there a huge difference in replacement rotors? The parts store has 2 kinds, one for $40, one for $70 life time warranty. Any suggestions on rotors?
#5
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When I work on front end stuff brakes or what ever I never cheap out on parts. Buy the good stuff do it once and forget about it. I learned that along time ago working as a mechanic, If one side is toast change then both so there is no come backs down the road.
#7
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Does the end go on the bolt head?
Not sure what the nut on the extension end of the set up is all about, it's not my picture.
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#8
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I ordered my Brembo's & Hawk Pads for Tire Rack two hours ago...and the already shipped them out.
Now all I need is Infedel to come on down and help me put them on.
#9
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I also ordered Hawk pads yesterday from tirerack and they were shipped in a couple of hours.
Make sure to jack the side you are working on high and to support the axle in it's normal position by stuffing rags under the u-joint.
This prevents differential fluid from getting past the seal, trapped in the axle tube and taking a month to quit leaking out.
Make sure to jack the side you are working on high and to support the axle in it's normal position by stuffing rags under the u-joint.
This prevents differential fluid from getting past the seal, trapped in the axle tube and taking a month to quit leaking out.
#11
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i think in that picture Infidel, the nut that is shown on the end of the extension is just to add length , or appears that way.
For the next time i have to do it, I welded the 12 point socket on the end of a piece of square stock at the length i needed.
For the next time i have to do it, I welded the 12 point socket on the end of a piece of square stock at the length i needed.
#12
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WOW! That was easy! I have been dreading this for 3 years! I just replaced my rotors and followed infidels instructions and his "press" method. Only took 3 hours start to finish. Popped right out and smooth sailing from there. I even hooked my ABS back up cause the front brakes are doing there job again.
Thanks infidel! You da man!
Thanks infidel! You da man!
#13
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I also ordered Hawk pads yesterday from tirerack and they were shipped in a couple of hours.
Make sure to jack the side you are working on high and to support the axle in it's normal position by stuffing rags under the u-joint.
This prevents differential fluid from getting past the seal, trapped in the axle tube and taking a month to quit leaking out.
Make sure to jack the side you are working on high and to support the axle in it's normal position by stuffing rags under the u-joint.
This prevents differential fluid from getting past the seal, trapped in the axle tube and taking a month to quit leaking out.
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