Common Problems and How Do I Articles Needed...
10-26-2006, 04:14 PM
#1
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Common Problems and How Do I Articles Needed...
Fellas im looking for some help on compiling some of the common problems or questions that come up often associated with the 12v engine for the tech facts section. Basically what im looking for is a list of some good threads that have helped out alot of owners.
You can either PM me with your article or you can post a link to the thread within this thread. Thanks in advance. Monty
You can either PM me with your article or you can post a link to the thread within this thread. Thanks in advance. Monty
10-26-2006, 11:16 PM
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Post #7 here (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=78573) is Rick's often reposed intro to BOMBing a 12v. I would be happy to polish it up a little, so it could be part of the how to articles... (at the least I believe the link is broken now)
10-27-2006, 05:20 AM
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Heres one that I did awhile back about the TPS problem
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&highlight=tps
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&highlight=tps
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&highlight=tps
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&highlight=tps
10-27-2006, 04:59 PM
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https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=82015
About losing prime overnight
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=70077
Starwheel adjustments
About losing prime overnight
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=70077
Starwheel adjustments
10-31-2006, 08:17 AM
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Here's a reply I sent on replacing fuel lines.
Well, if you have a 12 valve, which I assume you do if you found my name, then here goes.
1. Get diesel rated fuel hose. Enough to go from front to back is probably the best method. Keeps you from having to deal with cracks in the metal lines. I used about 12' of 3/8" (supply) and 12' of 5/16" (return) hose. That was on a regular cab. If you have something different, or just to be sure, measure yours from the front wheel to the back and then add a little for the bends. The marine hose is more expensive, but tougher and will last longer. There are a couple of sites commonly listed on these posts, or you can find it at your local marine shop.
2. Get a couple of good hose clamps for each end of the hose.
3. Remove the fuel filter. It helps to reach the return line.
4. Reach around down in behind where the fuel filter was and find the rubber line that runs to the injector pump area. Usually there will be a hose clamp of some sort there. Can't remember the socket size, but mine were the same as the new hose clamps. Take that clamp loose and pull the hose off.
5. While you are still somewhat patient, hook the 5/16" return line up to this same place and secure it with clamps. It is a tough job to reach in there. I found that laying over the valve cover helped.
6. The supply hose is right behind the fuel filter bracket. From the same position (laying on the valve cover) take this loose and install the new hose and secure with clamps.
7. Now route the hoses back to the tank, using the old metal lines both as a guide and anchor point for your rubber hose (I used zip ties).
8. Take your choice here. 1.Drop the tank-2 15MM nuts hold the straps in place. Use a floor jack with a big piece of plywood or 2x4's to spread the load out. 2. Lift the bed-6 bolts through the frame to the bottom of the bed. You can loosen the back two and tilt the bed back if you wish. Just make sure you block it up securely. 3. (the one I chose) Squeeze in between the bed side and frame. From this position you can see the module on top of the tank.
9. There are the two lines on top of the tank that are probably connected to some plastic pipe with "quick disconnects". They are kinda hard to get off, but I just used a screwdriver and pulled them apart. (the tool I had was the wrong size) You won't be using them anymore anyway.
10. Connect the supply line to the bigger fitting and the return to the smaller. (Also check out the condition of these fittings as they are a source of leaks) I used a bit of vaseline to help the hoses slide over the barb in the fitting. Secure these with the hose clamps. I would use one in front and one behind the barb.
11. After that is done, replace your fuel filter from step 3 if you haven't already and you are ready to prime. The air pressure to the tank works good. Just loosen the bleed screw on top of the filter housing and apply pressure with an air compressor and rag. Not too much, don't want to blow the tank up (10 psi is good).
Everything should prime up in 15-20 seconds when you get diesel coming out of the bleed screw. After all this, you are ready to start it back up and make sure you don't have any leaks.
Couple of notes. If you drop the tank, make sure you have enough room for the wires on top of the module to come down too without pulling or breaking them. Also, there is a line between the fuel heater and lift pump (about 6" long) that may leak too. I haven't replaced this one, but 1/2" is the hose size. You will probably need a couple of feet as the original is pre-moulded.
Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.
Well, if you have a 12 valve, which I assume you do if you found my name, then here goes.
1. Get diesel rated fuel hose. Enough to go from front to back is probably the best method. Keeps you from having to deal with cracks in the metal lines. I used about 12' of 3/8" (supply) and 12' of 5/16" (return) hose. That was on a regular cab. If you have something different, or just to be sure, measure yours from the front wheel to the back and then add a little for the bends. The marine hose is more expensive, but tougher and will last longer. There are a couple of sites commonly listed on these posts, or you can find it at your local marine shop.
2. Get a couple of good hose clamps for each end of the hose.
3. Remove the fuel filter. It helps to reach the return line.
4. Reach around down in behind where the fuel filter was and find the rubber line that runs to the injector pump area. Usually there will be a hose clamp of some sort there. Can't remember the socket size, but mine were the same as the new hose clamps. Take that clamp loose and pull the hose off.
5. While you are still somewhat patient, hook the 5/16" return line up to this same place and secure it with clamps. It is a tough job to reach in there. I found that laying over the valve cover helped.
6. The supply hose is right behind the fuel filter bracket. From the same position (laying on the valve cover) take this loose and install the new hose and secure with clamps.
7. Now route the hoses back to the tank, using the old metal lines both as a guide and anchor point for your rubber hose (I used zip ties).
8. Take your choice here. 1.Drop the tank-2 15MM nuts hold the straps in place. Use a floor jack with a big piece of plywood or 2x4's to spread the load out. 2. Lift the bed-6 bolts through the frame to the bottom of the bed. You can loosen the back two and tilt the bed back if you wish. Just make sure you block it up securely. 3. (the one I chose) Squeeze in between the bed side and frame. From this position you can see the module on top of the tank.
9. There are the two lines on top of the tank that are probably connected to some plastic pipe with "quick disconnects". They are kinda hard to get off, but I just used a screwdriver and pulled them apart. (the tool I had was the wrong size) You won't be using them anymore anyway.
10. Connect the supply line to the bigger fitting and the return to the smaller. (Also check out the condition of these fittings as they are a source of leaks) I used a bit of vaseline to help the hoses slide over the barb in the fitting. Secure these with the hose clamps. I would use one in front and one behind the barb.
11. After that is done, replace your fuel filter from step 3 if you haven't already and you are ready to prime. The air pressure to the tank works good. Just loosen the bleed screw on top of the filter housing and apply pressure with an air compressor and rag. Not too much, don't want to blow the tank up (10 psi is good).
Everything should prime up in 15-20 seconds when you get diesel coming out of the bleed screw. After all this, you are ready to start it back up and make sure you don't have any leaks.
Couple of notes. If you drop the tank, make sure you have enough room for the wires on top of the module to come down too without pulling or breaking them. Also, there is a line between the fuel heater and lift pump (about 6" long) that may leak too. I haven't replaced this one, but 1/2" is the hose size. You will probably need a couple of feet as the original is pre-moulded.
Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.
01-18-2007, 08:11 PM
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"Oh no, my ABS and Brake Light are on!"
If your ABS light and brake light come on, in most cases it's probably your Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (RWSS). This sensor is on top of the rear differential.
This sensor is controlled by a "exciter ring" that is interupted by the teeth on the ring sending a variable voltage signal to the computer depending on vehicle speed. small metal shavings can cause it to fail over time. The most common symptoms of the switch's failure are bad speedometer readings and tripping the RWAL computer located under the center of the dash.
Other obvious things can also trip the computer such as:
1. bad pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders.
2. bad fuses.
3. poor connections or broken and/or chaffed wire.
Once you have detemined that none of the above exist, you can try a system reset buy pulling the abs fuse and/or pulling negative battery terminals for 30 sec or so.
If the lights come back, the next thing to try is reading the RWAL fault codes.
To read the codes on 96 and older trucks:
1. turn key to the "on" position.
2. for just a second, ground pin # 13 on the diagnostic plug located on the knee bolster (#13 is a black wire, it's the 4th from right bottom row).
watch your ABS/Brake light for codes.
start counting with the first long flash, end with last short flash.
there are only 13 codes.
1. Not used.
2. open isolation valve wiring or bad control module.
3. open dump valve wiring or bad contol module.
4. closed rwal switch.
5. not used 4wd. over 16 dump pulses in 2wd.
6. erratic speed sensor reading. (most common)
7. electronic control module fuse pellet open, isolation output missing, or valve wiring shorted to ground.
8. dump output missing or valve wiring shorted to ground.
9. speed sensor wire resistance/ high reading.
10. speed sensor wire resistance/ low reading.
11. brake switch always on, RWAL light comes on over 40mph.
12. not used.
13. electronic control module phase lock loop failure.
14. electronic control module program check failure.
15. electronic control module RAM falure.
mine was a code 10. it was a break in the molded section of wire off the RWSS.
*On 97-98.5 12V models, you will end up at the dealer to get the ABS codes.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
This sensor is controlled by a "exciter ring" that is interupted by the teeth on the ring sending a variable voltage signal to the computer depending on vehicle speed. small metal shavings can cause it to fail over time. The most common symptoms of the switch's failure are bad speedometer readings and tripping the RWAL computer located under the center of the dash.
Other obvious things can also trip the computer such as:
1. bad pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders.
2. bad fuses.
3. poor connections or broken and/or chaffed wire.
Once you have detemined that none of the above exist, you can try a system reset buy pulling the abs fuse and/or pulling negative battery terminals for 30 sec or so.
If the lights come back, the next thing to try is reading the RWAL fault codes.
To read the codes on 96 and older trucks:
1. turn key to the "on" position.
2. for just a second, ground pin # 13 on the diagnostic plug located on the knee bolster (#13 is a black wire, it's the 4th from right bottom row).
watch your ABS/Brake light for codes.
start counting with the first long flash, end with last short flash.
there are only 13 codes.
1. Not used.
2. open isolation valve wiring or bad control module.
3. open dump valve wiring or bad contol module.
4. closed rwal switch.
5. not used 4wd. over 16 dump pulses in 2wd.
6. erratic speed sensor reading. (most common)
7. electronic control module fuse pellet open, isolation output missing, or valve wiring shorted to ground.
8. dump output missing or valve wiring shorted to ground.
9. speed sensor wire resistance/ high reading.
10. speed sensor wire resistance/ low reading.
11. brake switch always on, RWAL light comes on over 40mph.
12. not used.
13. electronic control module phase lock loop failure.
14. electronic control module program check failure.
15. electronic control module RAM falure.
mine was a code 10. it was a break in the molded section of wire off the RWSS.
*On 97-98.5 12V models, you will end up at the dealer to get the ABS codes.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
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01-18-2007, 11:50 PM
#7
Registered User
I found this tip by Bill (infidel ) to be a huge help for priming the fuel system on a 12v. Any one who had to pump that silly little primer button will love it.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...rize+fuel+tank
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...rize+fuel+tank
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03-11-2007, 07:04 PM
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Over the years of browsing I actually made up an excel file of common issues and fixes, not to say it is the end all be all but maybe you'll find it helpful. I'll email it to you if you PM me your address.
03-23-2007, 06:39 PM
#9
Registered User
To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve:
I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.
Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.
If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .
After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.
Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...s&keyword=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.
From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=
I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.
Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.
If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .
After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.
Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...s&keyword=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.
From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=
03-23-2007, 06:45 PM
#10
Registered User
Removing Brake Rotor
Many times the rotor will come right off by hitting on it with a soft hammer from behind while rotating it.
If it doesn't...
Break the big nut lose with the tires on the ground but leave it tight. Jack the side you are working on high to keep differential fluid from running out. Remove wheel and brake caliper. Caliper takes a 3/8" allan head.
Remove three of the four bolts that hold the unit bearing on from the back side, they take a 12 point socket. Leave the last bolt most of the way screwed out, wedge a socket with extension in-between the bolt and differential housing, start the engine and turn the steering wheel to pop the bearing off. You will hear it very clearly when it pops. Leaving the big nut tight prevents the bearing form busting apart.
During this process keep the axle in it's normal position by stuffing rags under the u-joint. This keeps the axle seal from deforming and possibly leaking.
When you have the rotor off pound the studs out with a copper or brass headed hammer or press.
Pound the studs into the new rotor using a drift then make sure they are pulled in tight by tightening down a lug nut with a pile of washers under it.
Coat the axle stub with anti-seize before putting the bearing/rotor back on so it comes off easy next time.
If it doesn't...
Break the big nut lose with the tires on the ground but leave it tight. Jack the side you are working on high to keep differential fluid from running out. Remove wheel and brake caliper. Caliper takes a 3/8" allan head.
Remove three of the four bolts that hold the unit bearing on from the back side, they take a 12 point socket. Leave the last bolt most of the way screwed out, wedge a socket with extension in-between the bolt and differential housing, start the engine and turn the steering wheel to pop the bearing off. You will hear it very clearly when it pops. Leaving the big nut tight prevents the bearing form busting apart.
During this process keep the axle in it's normal position by stuffing rags under the u-joint. This keeps the axle seal from deforming and possibly leaking.
When you have the rotor off pound the studs out with a copper or brass headed hammer or press.
Pound the studs into the new rotor using a drift then make sure they are pulled in tight by tightening down a lug nut with a pile of washers under it.
Coat the axle stub with anti-seize before putting the bearing/rotor back on so it comes off easy next time.
04-21-2007, 02:10 PM
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this site is set up for all kinds of troubleshooting, first-timers, all generations, reported problems and part numbers. its about as good as a shop manual.
http://www.dodgeram.org/support_pgs/diesel_ix.htm
http://www.dodgeram.org/support_pgs/diesel_ix.htm
06-04-2007, 04:05 AM
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If your ABS light and brake light come on, in most cases it's probably your Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (RWSS). This sensor is on top of the rear differential.
This sensor is controlled by a "exciter ring" that is interupted by the teeth on the ring sending a variable voltage signal to the computer depending on vehicle speed. small metal shavings can cause it to fail over time. The most common symptoms of the switch's failure are bad speedometer readings and tripping the RWAL computer located under the center of the dash.
Other obvious things can also trip the computer such as:
1. bad pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders.
2. bad fuses.
3. poor connections or broken and/or chaffed wire.
Once you have detemined that none of the above exist, you can try a system reset buy pulling the abs fuse and/or pulling negative battery terminals for 30 sec or so.
If the lights come back, the next thing to try is reading the RWAL fault codes.
To read the codes on 96 and older trucks:
1. turn key to the "on" position.
2. for just a second, ground pin # 13 on the diagnostic plug located on the knee bolster (#13 is a black wire, it's the 4th from right bottom row).
watch your ABS/Brake light for codes.
start counting with the first long flash, end with last short flash.
there are only 13 codes.
1. Not used.
2. open isolation valve wiring or bad control module.
3. open dump valve wiring or bad contol module.
4. closed rwal switch.
5. not used 4wd. over 16 dump pulses in 2wd.
6. erratic speed sensor reading. (most common)
7. electronic control module fuse pellet open, isolation output missing, or valve wiring shorted to ground.
8. dump output missing or valve wiring shorted to ground.
9. speed sensor wire resistance/ high reading.
10. speed sensor wire resistance/ low reading.
11. brake switch always on, RWAL light comes on over 40mph.
12. not used.
13. electronic control module phase lock loop failure.
14. electronic control module program check failure.
15. electronic control module RAM falure.
mine was a code 10. it was a break in the molded section of wire off the RWSS.
*On 97-98.5 12V models, you will end up at the dealer to get the ABS codes.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
This sensor is controlled by a "exciter ring" that is interupted by the teeth on the ring sending a variable voltage signal to the computer depending on vehicle speed. small metal shavings can cause it to fail over time. The most common symptoms of the switch's failure are bad speedometer readings and tripping the RWAL computer located under the center of the dash.
Other obvious things can also trip the computer such as:
1. bad pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders.
2. bad fuses.
3. poor connections or broken and/or chaffed wire.
Once you have detemined that none of the above exist, you can try a system reset buy pulling the abs fuse and/or pulling negative battery terminals for 30 sec or so.
If the lights come back, the next thing to try is reading the RWAL fault codes.
To read the codes on 96 and older trucks:
1. turn key to the "on" position.
2. for just a second, ground pin # 13 on the diagnostic plug located on the knee bolster (#13 is a black wire, it's the 4th from right bottom row).
watch your ABS/Brake light for codes.
start counting with the first long flash, end with last short flash.
there are only 13 codes.
1. Not used.
2. open isolation valve wiring or bad control module.
3. open dump valve wiring or bad contol module.
4. closed rwal switch.
5. not used 4wd. over 16 dump pulses in 2wd.
6. erratic speed sensor reading. (most common)
7. electronic control module fuse pellet open, isolation output missing, or valve wiring shorted to ground.
8. dump output missing or valve wiring shorted to ground.
9. speed sensor wire resistance/ high reading.
10. speed sensor wire resistance/ low reading.
11. brake switch always on, RWAL light comes on over 40mph.
12. not used.
13. electronic control module phase lock loop failure.
14. electronic control module program check failure.
15. electronic control module RAM falure.
mine was a code 10. it was a break in the molded section of wire off the RWSS.
*On 97-98.5 12V models, you will end up at the dealer to get the ABS codes.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
09-03-2007, 09:17 AM
#14
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make ball joints/tie rod ends go next to forever by injecting grease into boot
ball joints/tie rod ends go next to forever if you don't allow them to go dry by injecting grease into boot.
metal to metal contact without lubrication is death of any bearing. prevent bearing surfaces from going dry (self-destruction) by keeping bearing surface loaded with grease or other lubricants.
auto manufacturers have long left off grease zerts on ball joints, tie rod ends and u-joints. IMHO this was not done by accident, mfg don't want major components to last forever. they do want most vehicles to last past warranty period.
heavy usage means shorter service intervals. that's why some CTD owners get 180k+ miles without problems. while others with 30k miles report ball joint failures.
use a grease needle to puncture through rubber boot around ball joint. then pump full of moly based grease every second oil change or so.
MUST fill joints full of grease before damage occurs. putting grease into a joint that's already gone dry is too late. damage has already occurred.
metal to metal contact without lubrication is death of any bearing. prevent bearing surfaces from going dry (self-destruction) by keeping bearing surface loaded with grease or other lubricants.
auto manufacturers have long left off grease zerts on ball joints, tie rod ends and u-joints. IMHO this was not done by accident, mfg don't want major components to last forever. they do want most vehicles to last past warranty period.
heavy usage means shorter service intervals. that's why some CTD owners get 180k+ miles without problems. while others with 30k miles report ball joint failures.
use a grease needle to puncture through rubber boot around ball joint. then pump full of moly based grease every second oil change or so.
MUST fill joints full of grease before damage occurs. putting grease into a joint that's already gone dry is too late. damage has already occurred.
10-25-2007, 10:16 AM
#15
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Shut down solenoid
The Other day I went to start my 95 ram 2500 and it would not start. It turned out the shut down solenoid wasn't engaging (pulling up). I took it off and like many others who have the rubber boot falling apart and plunger shaft was dirty. I removed the old boot and made a new one.
I took a large neoprene glove and cut the longest finger just below the palm. I then cut a small hole on the finger tip of the glove. After cleaning the plunger shaft of the solenoid I slipped the finger over the shaft and return spring.the small hole at the tip of the finger sealed tightly around the bottom part of the shaft. I used a tie wire to seal and secure the top of the open finger at the bottom of the solenoid with a plastic tie strip. The finger was loose enough to allow the spring to compress fully. This provided such a good seal I poked a small hole in the side of the finger so the excess air could escape. I reinstalled the solenoid unit and it worked great.
This should last a long time. The neoprene glove is oil resistant and very flexible, yet tough. It also keeps the shaft of the plunger in straight alignment making installation of the solenoid easier.
Hope this helps for those who had the same problem as I did.
I took a large neoprene glove and cut the longest finger just below the palm. I then cut a small hole on the finger tip of the glove. After cleaning the plunger shaft of the solenoid I slipped the finger over the shaft and return spring.the small hole at the tip of the finger sealed tightly around the bottom part of the shaft. I used a tie wire to seal and secure the top of the open finger at the bottom of the solenoid with a plastic tie strip. The finger was loose enough to allow the spring to compress fully. This provided such a good seal I poked a small hole in the side of the finger so the excess air could escape. I reinstalled the solenoid unit and it worked great.
This should last a long time. The neoprene glove is oil resistant and very flexible, yet tough. It also keeps the shaft of the plunger in straight alignment making installation of the solenoid easier.
Hope this helps for those who had the same problem as I did.