Astro

Most of the "Death Wobble" threads I've searched are with 4x4 trucks. Mine's a '97 Dually 2WD with IFS and it's vibrating like nuts. I also feel a slight clunk or pop in the floorboard when going over railroad tracks or potholes. Also when turning or braking at low speeds I feel the same pop/clunk.

Here's what I've recently done, all with no fix to the wobble and clunk...

New Front Tires, All 6 Balanced...TODAY
New Front & Rear Shocks... YESTERDAY
New Front Rotors & Pads... YESTERDAY
New Front Wheel Bearings... YESTERDAY
Sway Bar Bushings... YESTERDAY

When I replaced the front shocks, the old ones were blown out and came out in 2 pieces. I knew they were bad but drove on them til I could afford new ones. Same with tires, they were feathering and outer edges wearing from the bad shocks, but edges probably worn from bad ball joints.

I can see what looks like worn control arm bushings when I was under the truck. How much of a pain in the **** are they to swap out? Do I need a press? Are the Poly bushings any better than the Rubber bushings?

What about the ball joints? They are freaking expensive, but how much trouble are they on these trucks?

Tie rod ends are all the same, so no problem there, but I've never messed with the ball joints or control arm bushings on these trucks. I'm a gearhead and hot rod builder, just used to the old fashioned stuff.

Any recommendations/advice is greatly appreciated.

johnh

if the ball joints are the same as mine, you have to drill the rivets out unless they have been replaced before, then it's a LOT easier as the rivets have been replaced with bolts.........if they are OEM , it's a job for a professional

GAmes

Check your ball joints with the weight off the tires. One side could be bad and the other OK, so check them all. If one is bad replace them all. The 97 2WD ball joints press in. No bolts or rivets. I bought a press from Snap-On, but I think the lowner from Auto Zone might work. Be sure to check the tie rod ends and get a good alignment when finished.

Astro

thanks GAmes. Have you done the control arm bushings on yours?

GAmes

No. I replaced the ball joints and the outer tie rod ends at about 500k. The rest of the front end is original, other than the shocks.

XLR8R

2nd Gen control arms are junk, as well as the ball-stud track bar.

Astro

It's 2wd man

XLR8R

Thank God for that - looks like you just have to deal with the bushings & BJs.

Astro

Just ordered all 4 Ball Joints. Going to get a pair of heavy duty front shocks as well. These "new" shocks act just like the broken, busted up shocks I pulled out.

mechrisme

did you ever figure out the noise? my 2001 does about the same thing but I've changed out my ball joints

dguru

Before you try to press out the old ball joint remove the snap ring on the lower ones and look close at the top side. You will see where the factory welded them in two places. You will need a grinder with a small thin blade to cut those welds before you try to press them out. If not the welds will cut and roll the metal as they pass through and make the hole bigger. You will want to put two small welds on the new ones after installation because you will see that the snap ring is nothing but a fail safe. It has a 1/4" of room between the ring and the arm. It basically does nothing. Not welding them will allow them to move and get lose in the hole.

The top ones are easy.

BTW don't remove the arms to install the joints. It is not necessary.

dguru

I think the noise has something to do with a slightly warped rotor and lose caliper. Turn the rotor and look at it with the wheel off.

Another noise area when hitting bumps is the braces under the front and back of the cab cracking. Ohhh and don't forget the lose factory air cleaner mounts.

mechrisme

I went to Firestone and they told my vibrating was probably the rotors too, the cab cracking?

dguru

The reinforcement braces that run front to back outside the frame, on each side, under the cab. I think some of the seat bolts go into them but I don't remember. They get cracks where the floor turns up at your feet. Also the back of the cab cracks everywhere as well as where the braces are welded under the cab and to the back of the cab. I had to go crazy with a welder at 280000mi because I had holes opening up on the rear wall of the cab. If I get time I will snap some photos. Dodge was skimpy with metal.

If you have the factory air cleaner, bang on it and shake it. I bet you will find the inserts that the bolts screw into are all lose in the sheet metal inner fender. I ripped them out and used bolts, lock nuts and washers.

traverler48

Check the shaft that goes from the firewall or steer collum to the steering gear box. There was a TSB on them back in about 96. Mine is a 95 and they replace it free. I had the clunk and pop but no wobble when I ran over railroad tracks. Thats what the TSB called it clunk and pop. I had jerryrigged mine with a peice of 3/4 hose and 2 clamps around where the smaller slides in the larger of the tubes That worked great but then I saw the TSB on the TDR and headed to the dealer that was about 97.