I installed Wildcat Max Flow system over the weekend. After installing and airbleeding lines prior to VP-44, tried to start, nothing. I was working alone, so I cracked #1 injector, cranked on it, got fuel from injector, retightened #1. Did this w/#3,#4, and #5 before it started. Started really rough, but then smoothed out. I did not crack injector 2 or 6, since it was running smooth. Yesterday while rechecking for any fuel leaks, I noticed a knock, kinda like a tapping valve on a gasser, so I opened the oil fill cap, no noise copming out of valve cover, sounds like it is coming from #2 injector, but not sure since VP-44 is so close. This morning after driveing to work(55miles), while letting EGT go down below 300, I noticed a miss or hicup every once in awhile, very random(ac turned off). I have noticed recently(now and prior to max flow install) that engine seems to run rougher than it used to between idle and 2k rpms. My question is, could there still be air in the line for # 2 and 6 injector? Will a weak injector be really noticeable? What will it sound like?

 

No on the air, once started it will purge the air, that is the roughness when first started. I had a weak injector on mine that missed once in a while. New injectors fixed it. Difficult to find which one it is when it is sparradic.

 

Have you tried running some injector cleaner through it? Might just be a dirty or clogged injector. Also go have your codes pulled from some place like Autozone.

 

I always use diesel additive at every fill up. Will it have codes even w/out check engine light. I have done the key on/off 4 times thing, never get anything other the odometer.

 

You only need to do it 3 times. I think that if you do it 4 times, then you won't get the scan. It is possible to have codes present and not have them show up on the odometer. This is why its a good idea to take it to autozone and have them do it, plus its free.

 

dodgediesel4x4
I will get by AZ soon, and have it checked for codes.

I noticed in your picture(siren in cubby) that your gear shift pattern is sideways. Mine is upside down. Have you ever been able to correct it? If so how?

 

That doesn't work on the 99's.
Have to take it somewhere that has a code reader.

I don't believe injector problems would result in any codes though.


phox

 

Yes, all I do is push down on the pattern and twist is to correct it. After a few weeks of doing this (problem kept on happening) so I just said to helk w/ it. If you really want to fix it though, just pop it off and glue it. You have to pop it off anyway to remove the shifting ****, fyi.

 

Stopped by AZ yesterday, had them pull codes, nothing. When I got home, I got an old piece of 3/8 hose, and used it as a stethascope, and tried to hear exaclty where the knock was coming from. Could not pinpoint the source from outside of engine, but when I put the hose in the valve cover, I could really hear it well. I am thinking I have 1 valve assembly out of adjustement, but not sure. Has any body done the valve train adjustment themselves? I am assuming the injectors must be pulled in order to be able hand turn the engine.?? If that's the case, I may order a set of BD1 injectors from Wildcat. Any comments on the BD1's is welcome. Thanks to all for your advise.

 

No problem setting them. I will take you at least 3/4 hour to do it. Injector do not come out for the adjustment. Wrench on the alternator nut will turn it one direction only. Easiest way is the matching or opposing cylinders, works easy and fast.

 

As mentioned, turning the alternator nut works great for doing the valves. No need to remove the injectors for this.

If you are still having problems after the valve adjustment, you might ask Rod about some Mach 1 EDM's. Wildcat has a sale on the F-1 injectors (the best in my opinion) right now. I remember Rod saying he isn't selling very many sets of extrude honed injectors these days.


Boyd.

 

Thanks for the info guys.
I was driving home from work yesterday(all highway except close to home) After driving for about 50 miles at 70MPH(2100 rpm) I have to stop at a light going into town. This is where the engine almost always misses or hiccups acouple times, well yesterday, it missed and hiccuped alot. A/C not on. It is not a surge , rpm falls from normal(875) to around 800 when this happens, and truck shakes pretty good. I am thinking maybe the IAT sensor is dirty, and after all the cool forced air over the intercooler, air suddenly becomes a little warmer at a stop. I did notice that If I move the throttle, it quits, maybe the TPS sensor?? Any ideas??