Hey gang-
just got another 99 24 valve 4x4 truck today, & It stalls when I put it into gear with the brakes on.
If I start it, put it in gear without the brakes it will almost stall, but if I give it a little gas it will go ok. Drives down the road fine, shifts a little late into 2nd at first, but shifts normally after that.
When I come to a stoplight it idles down like it's going to stall, but it will push against the brakes & darn near push me through the intersection while on the brakes. Makes me think it's torque converter, but it does work fine on takeoff & normal driving.
Another problem I have I think is the alternator, because it won't stay charged very long, & Usually needs a jump. Going to buy a battery load tester, & take the alternator to advance & have them put it on the tester.
Any ideas??
Thanks

 

I can't help with your trans issue but I can give you some advice on your alternator and batteries. If you replace batteries, be sure to replace both at once with the highest CCA recommended for your truck. Beware of advance auto and other places like that testing your electrical equipment. Particularly alternators and starters. They have no way of putting a load on these items so their tests may say the the item in question is good, when under load it is not. They usually can load test batteries though.

If you have an original alternator, your best bet is to buy a kit and rebuild it. I went through two alternators from auto zone that were bad right out of the box before buying a bosch alternator that required me to take the pulley off the original. Unfortunately, I had already turned in the core. The same goes for starters.

 

when you say rebuild do you mean a brush & wire terminal block that go on the outside? If the pulley spins fine with no wobble you shouldn't need bearings, right?

 

I'm not totally sure, I haven't rebuilt one, I'm only speaking from what others told me after the fiasco I had with mine, and I've seen rebuild kits online. But as far as the bearing goes, I would rebuild everything while you have it apart already. Hopefully someone else will chime in who has more experience than me.

 

Usually you just need the brush kit.
I buy mine from
Larryb - LarryB's Brushes for Dodge Diesel Denso alternator, 1989-2007
But first you need to make sure that you still have the stock Denso alternator.

About the truck "pushing"- do you notice the same pushing if you pull it into manual first gear?
Did you take a look at the TC through the little inspection hole on the bottom of the bellhousing? It would be interesting to know if you have a discoloration or overheated paint on the surface with the lugs that are used to bolt the TC to the flexplate.

 

I'd start with unplugging the OD/lockup connector and see if it changes anything. Then replace the lockup and OD solenoids. A lot easier than changing the torque converter.

 

I would also change the fluid and filter, and Drop the pan check the for metal.

 

I've put brushes and rectifiers in lots of these Denso alternators, and never seen one that needs bearings or a stator.

As far as diagnosing a shifting problem, I would just disconnect the field from the alternator and take it for a drive. If the transmission problem remains, it would eliminate the alternator as a suspect.

 

Hey guys-
bought a new alternator for the truck, ran a ground wire from frame bolt of alt. to truck fender wall (bare metal).
Fired it up today & alternator was reading 40, then went down to 38.5 volts, & battery was only reading 11.5 v at the terminals & the batt leads. Checked it a few times & got the same-What gives? Batteries are used & about dead; would new batteries fix that? Really don't wanna shell out another 300 or so for batteries

 

You're kinda up against the wall there, if you have a bad battery or a dead cell or two you will need batteries anyway.

I'd get them tested rather than throw parts at it off a hunch.....

 

No. The voltage at the big charge terminal should be the same as the voltage at the batteries' positive terminals. There must be an open circuit between the charge terminal and the batteries. To confirm this, with the key OFF, check voltage at the charge terminal; it should be battery voltage. If there's no voltage there, inspect the charge wire from the alternator to the battery. The first place to look is the charge fuse in the PDC.

 

converter lockup solenoid is probably bad , easy to change once you drop the trans pan!