Stop light wire
Stop light wire
Ok heres the deal:
I'm FINALLY wiring up for trailer lights and brakes, after my original post requesting help a year ago! I think I've got most of the lights figured out, but not the trailer brake.
The unit is a Draw-tite Activator II, p/n 5500. It has 4 wires, ground, power, trailer connection and stop light. The instructions say the stop light wire ties into the trucks stop light, for obvious reasons. My only question is this: which wire is my stop light wire? It says to plug into the cold side, if that helps.
Thanks, Cal
I'm FINALLY wiring up for trailer lights and brakes, after my original post requesting help a year ago! I think I've got most of the lights figured out, but not the trailer brake.
The unit is a Draw-tite Activator II, p/n 5500. It has 4 wires, ground, power, trailer connection and stop light. The instructions say the stop light wire ties into the trucks stop light, for obvious reasons. My only question is this: which wire is my stop light wire? It says to plug into the cold side, if that helps.
Thanks, Cal
Somewhere about the brake-pedal lever, you will find the brake-light-switch.
There will be two wires to this switch, one is all-the-time HOT, the other is only HOT when the brake-pedal is pushed far enough to work the switch; that one is the "COLD" side of the brake-light-switch.
The wire that connects there is the trigger-wire that tells the controller that you have applied the brakes.
It also should light the brake-lights when the controller is operated manually.
Be sure and wire the trailer tail-lights/markers on a switch/circuit to themselves; DO NOT tap into the trucks parking-lamp/tail-light wiring to power the trailer.
There will be two wires to this switch, one is all-the-time HOT, the other is only HOT when the brake-pedal is pushed far enough to work the switch; that one is the "COLD" side of the brake-light-switch.
The wire that connects there is the trigger-wire that tells the controller that you have applied the brakes.
It also should light the brake-lights when the controller is operated manually.
Be sure and wire the trailer tail-lights/markers on a switch/circuit to themselves; DO NOT tap into the trucks parking-lamp/tail-light wiring to power the trailer.
Many brake-controllers require a "pulse-eliminator" be spliced ahead of the controller to fix that.
It could be included in the controller, but they had rather get you for another twelve bucks.
bearkiller, could I ask a huge favor of you? Do you have some sort of diagram drawn up that I could look at, showing how to set up all this? I understand the basic concepts, but am by no means an electrician, so I need visuals to show me where to connect wires!
Sorry, the only diagram is printed inside my skull in some weird foreign language.

There ain't nothing to it; just do what I said in my first post and that will get the brake-controller actuater-wire connected.
Left and right turn-signal/brake-lights will need be tapped into easiest at the trucks tail-light pigtails; here is where a good test-light is necessary.
The trailer "markers", (tail-lights, running lights, parking lights) should ALWAYS be wired on a circuit entirely their own, with their own fuse(s) and BIG TOGGLE SWITCH---one that sounds like the hammer on a 45 coming back.
To accomplish this, tie a 12AWG wire, with in-line fuse, to the positive battery terminal; run this wire through the firewall, into the cab, to your BIG SWITCH; from the cold side of the switch, back through the firewall, down the truck-frame, to wherever the truck's end of the trailer-plug is.
Wired thus, the trailer marker-lights will not have any bearing whatsoever on the trucks lighting circuits.
Use plenty of solder and heat-shrink, so it will appear that you know what you are doing, none of those squeeze-together wire-biters or twisting wires together and black-tape mess.
Does any of this help ??
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