dieselfuel007

go into your display settings it will say intake air temp and that will bring it up on your display i did it cause i'm having the exact same trouble as you are mine didn't seem to be moving around much but it was 45 f here today and it was reading 65 f but that in the intake btw i put the cardboard in front of my rad and it still surges and doesn't mush much hotter

rpausewang

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter.

farmboy3510

I changed my display to read the intake air temperature and when it the temperature is 30 degrees F outside the temperature read between 75-80 degrees F on the display. I have a piece of cardboard that is 20" tall x 26" wide covering the radiator. When sitting idle in a parking lot, the temperature reads between 115-120 degrees F. I do not know if these temperatures are correct if the sensor is functioning correctly. The temperature sounds kind of warm to me, but I do not know. I change my fuel filter when I change my oil in 3,000 mile intervals. I run a second inline fuel filter between my FASS and my injector pump and I have also changed that. Any help would be appreciated.

NoSeeUm

Just tossing out ideas so take this with a grain of salt. Is it more of a random miss or a stutter that occures everyonce in awhile when you get on the diesel peddle a bit?

Stutter under power is sometimes due to too much timing when the engine is fueling fairly hard. Which could be caused by low IAT or a bad IAT sensor. This problem is just a quirk in the ECM programing and worse in some trucks than others especially when more fueling is added.

To test, you might try getting a 2k ohm resistor. The small type. Unhook your IAT sensor and then connect the resistor into the harness. This should fool the ECM into thinking the IAT is roughly 125F. Turn the Edge off and drive the truck. Keep in mind that this mod will disable your grid heaters for cold starts so be sure to plug the truck in or the engine might not start.

None of your other mod's would cause your problem, because you are running a fairly tried and proven set-up. That is if everythig about them is satifactory, and in all likelyhood it is.

You say that your boost is normal with no surging in pressure?

dieselfuel007

i'm in the exact same boat as you farmboy but my shudder seems to not be as bad if i came get my water temp up to 204f thats as hot as i can get it empty but if its not good and warmed up it still shudders does the cardboard run you to hot when towing?

NoSeeUm

This sound familiar? NWBombers Read the post by NowWe'reSmokin it might apply.

My truck has had this problem a few times also.

Jim

farmboy3510

The shudder that I seem to be getting seems to be intermittent. When I put my juice on 0 the shudder seems to go away or so sight that it is not that bothersome, so I think the whole shudder thing is directly related to a timing issue through my edge. I'm going to put a 2k resistor in line and see if that affects anything. When I tow I have to remove the cardboard in front of the radiator my water temp goes nuts when I left it in. The thing that is more of giant problem is my mpg is falling of the face of the earth. No matter what happens with the surging my mpg seems to keep getting worse. Does anyone know if this is related or my VP is on its way out. I have a rebuilt black pump from a Dodge dealer.

NoSeeUm

Hard for me to say. I would re-do the VP44 as a last option. When you are in there messing with the IAT. Pull it out and give it a good cleaning. Brake or contact cleaner is what I use.

Jim

dieselfuel007

i don't know about you farmboy but i cleaned my iat and it didn't help my problem i'm about ready to chuck my edge chip in favor of something else

NoSeeUm

There are allot of options out there. The Edge is not the only box that causes this stutter. In fact, one fellow wrote how his truck would do it with the Edge off or on. He fixed it with the resistor trick.

I don't know all of the details, but it is the static "set amount" of timing added by the tuner on top of the OEM timing that does it. Ussualy when the fueling is uprated. Of course, for lower IAT and ECT the ECM advances the timing and the problem ussually shows up this time of year. My truck did it with the XZT+ box with a previous version of Quad's SW on a day that was near 13F OAT. I ended up modding my IAT with a timed delay resistor circuit. Two minutes after I turn the key on my ECM sees a constant 105F.

FWIW I ran a Smarty for a couple of years. No issues at all, except when I was testing the Fuel Saver SW. That tuner uses dynamic timing advance as far as know.

On this flip side, I could really be completely off base. Installing a 2k resistor is more of a "Go no Go" test that is quick and cheap. Before you guys do anything more drastic and $$$.

Jim

dsl21

my Truck also has a exteme studder or miss, today while towing,grossing prolly around 26k ,it really acted up, it was 34 degrees ,and my water temp was close to 190, how do I get my display to read the intake temps?this resister,how do I put it in?do i cut the line to put it in?what does this resister look like?

NoSeeUm

No, just disconnect the wiring harness from the sensor. Bend the wires on the resistor and slide them into the holes of the harness connector. The resister simply takes the place of the sensor in the circuit. Keep in mind this will disable your grid heaters.

I use a ScanGauge to read IAT. An OEM display is not available to my knowledge.

Jim

dieselfuel007

how did you make the resistor time delayed to work with your heater grids

NoSeeUm

I got an IAT harness extender and spliced into it. Then I wired a variable resistor and the IAT sensor into a time delay relay. For the first two minutes after I turn the key on the ECM sees IAT resistance, after that it sees the resistor.

This is it


I can dig up the part numbers and vendors if you are at all interested. This set-up was around $80 IIRC.

FWIW a long thread on TDR. Which you probably can't access.

Jim