Lift pump quit.
I just changed my fuel filter for the first time, and turned the key to let the lift pump cycle to get the last of the air out of the filter housing. There is no sign of life from the pump. It cycled before I changed the filter, when I warmed the engine to change the oil.
Any thoughts?
Did I mess something up?
Any thoughts?
Did I mess something up?
Not familiar enough with the '99 fuel filter cannister, but could you have bumped the wires to the lift pump when you changed it?
Other than that, your lift pump is probably dead.
Pretty sure you have to actually bump the key to the start position to have the lift pump actually pump.
Just turning the key to "on" flips the relays for the grid heaters, that might be what you are hearing.
You broke prime by changing the filter, prior to that the VP44 was sucking it's own fuel,
which it is capable of doing if the system is already primed.
However, it only pumps enough to feed the injectors, it doesn't pull enough to cool itself.
phox
Other than that, your lift pump is probably dead.
Pretty sure you have to actually bump the key to the start position to have the lift pump actually pump.
Just turning the key to "on" flips the relays for the grid heaters, that might be what you are hearing.
You broke prime by changing the filter, prior to that the VP44 was sucking it's own fuel,
which it is capable of doing if the system is already primed.
However, it only pumps enough to feed the injectors, it doesn't pull enough to cool itself.
phox
If you still get nothing after "bumping" the starter.
(Turn the key to the start position for a split second, just enough to engage the starter, not long enough to actually start the engine. Leave the key in the run position.)
This will allow the pump to run for approx. 30 seconds.
Then it's time to contact your dealer if under warranty, or your local Cummins or Auto Parts house for a new lift pump.
(Turn the key to the start position for a split second, just enough to engage the starter, not long enough to actually start the engine. Leave the key in the run position.)
This will allow the pump to run for approx. 30 seconds.
Then it's time to contact your dealer if under warranty, or your local Cummins or Auto Parts house for a new lift pump.
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From: 13 miles N.W. of Cleveland, TEXAS in the National Forest
MAKE SURE YOU TRY TO CRANK THE ENGINE (key all the way forward to the crank or start position) FOR A SPLIT SECOND FIRST.
When my first (of three) FP went down I tapped on it with the light end of a 10" crescent wrench right after I "bumped" the key to the start position for a half second. It started working and hummed long enough to pump out the air and get it cranked and running after about five "starter bump" cycles. It was DOA by the time I got the new one put on the next morning. You might put a meter across the FP leads to make sure there's electricity to the FP and or disconnect check and reconnect the FP's electrical connection. Then check the fuse and relay. All else fails go get a new pump. It's easy to hang one.
When my first (of three) FP went down I tapped on it with the light end of a 10" crescent wrench right after I "bumped" the key to the start position for a half second. It started working and hummed long enough to pump out the air and get it cranked and running after about five "starter bump" cycles. It was DOA by the time I got the new one put on the next morning. You might put a meter across the FP leads to make sure there's electricity to the FP and or disconnect check and reconnect the FP's electrical connection. Then check the fuse and relay. All else fails go get a new pump. It's easy to hang one.
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DarrellB
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
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Oct 6, 2002 07:31 AM




