What are the signs of a failing lift pump? I drive an 02' 24 valve for work and it has started acting a little funny, mostly at idle.

 

the truck will stall while making a left hand turn in front of traffic... or maybe while crossing the railroad tracks just before the red lights. Mine died while backing out of the driveway luckily enough. To this day I have the p0216 code (it's been nearly 7 months). It all started with ULSD.. Get bio... IMO

 

best way is to put a fp gauge on it even just under the hood off the fuel filter i found out my lp was dead, well i guess thats what -2 psi was

 

I still can't believe people don't have fuel pressure gauges installed on their 2nd gen trucks.

People people people for the love of your Cummins PLEASE install a fuel pressure gauge. Your wallet will thank you later. Then you can actually monitor what is going on

 

My lift pump started leaking out the bottom, by the wires. I noticed that I was leaving a small puddle after idling in my driveway. Fortunately, I caught it in time and replaced it.

 

how difficult is installing one? I need directions and pictures

 

There are tons of pictures and threads on installing FP gauges on 2nd gen trucks.

Here is a quick search on this site. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...archid=1136267

Grab your favorite beverage and enjoy hours of reading.

Some mount the fuel line on the Shrader valve (test port on the VP) some tap into line from the LP to the VP, others use a tapped banjo bolt on the fuel filter. Our 02's don't have the sender on top of the filter cap but you can buy one from Genos garage if you want.

Also there is alot of debate about using electric senders and isolators. The majority say this is a wast of money, myself included. I had an isolator on for about a year but the readings were so inaccurate I dumped the isolator and have fuel into the gauge now. No leaks, no smell and wished I would have saved the $70 to begin with but... I didn't get all the facts before I bought.

Good luck.

 

On 2002, get a spare banjo bolt. Drill the head with 21/64" drill bit and tap it to 1/8" NPT thread. Thread a $4 needle valve into it, after applying some Permatex thread sealer to the NPT threads on the valve. Use this assembly to replace the banjo bolt on the bottom of fuel filter housing.
Install compression fitting on the end of a piece of nylon tubing (best to find 1/8" tubing and 1/8" needle valve, but you may also adapt 1/4" to 1/8", this is what I did). Run the 1/8 tubing through the grommet on the firewall, driver side, behind the dash (you can see it well from the engine compartment). Install mechanical gauge in the cab, wherever you like (I chose near the shifter, down low). Tighten up all plumbing; open needle valve a couple of turns. You will be able to use it to throttle any pulsations or shut off fuel in case of a leak.
You will need to bleed the fuel system as if you replaced fuel filter, standard operating procedure.
-P
Edit: I found the thread where I had some pictures of my pressure gauge installation: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=138789

 

I agree get a Fuel pressure gauge its a lifesaver. The install is a so easy and straight forward you should have no problem. Good Luck

 

Turn the key on/off/on/off/on (do not start engine) and look in the odometer. If you get the code P0216, you need a new LP, and likely a new IP (VP44) too.