Here it is, finally. In the picture it has 47 miles on it. I am sure some will notice the heater disconnected, still has tap water in it for starting and first road test, did not want to get tap water int he heater core. Looks good very little blowby even before the rings seat. I have a minor oil leak from the back of the block, probably valve cover gasket. Also a minor fuel leak (seepage) from the lines at the injector pump. Runs out good, sounds good, a little more exhaust note and a deeper sound from the Scotty II. Notice I put a tap for a boost fitting on the exhaust maniflod, and not seen there is one at the turbo elbow. Temperature is rock solid at 180 with this thermostat.

 

Congratulations, Hope she serves you well. Good Job! Jake

 

heck ya!! looks good hope all works good for ya

 

Looks good, let us know how it does loaded.
One thing about it, you should be expert at taking the Cummins in and out of the truck by now. Cool.

 

Let us know how that Freightliner cam pulls. I'm expecting that you'll get better fuel economy loaded, but I'm wondering if there will be enough power at the top end when you need to downshift on a steep grade.

 

Just running it around some town some freeway, to get some miles on it, put 110 miles on it. First observations seem to be something that the cam and race people probably can make something of. If you get on it and keep the boost up it feels strong all the way up, thats just seat of the pants. It may be a little slower to spool, and the EGT's I believe are lower. EGT drops off faster when slowing down. Pulling in from the highway to the driveway, it is already 300 or less. There is a difference though, cruising along in town I find that I am running lower rpms than normal, seems to like 1500 1600. Still has good pull at 2500 2600. Wound it up in gear once, more than I planned, went right up to the pin like it always did.

The sound is different, can't explain it. Engine sounds like a bigger engine, I mean up front, not the exhaust. Deeper sound, also much smoother than the old engine. Almost no blowby at 110 miles. Oil leak went away, I think the fuel seepage also. This new thermostat is really smooth, just stays on 180, never moves. And yes, it has Cummins mix coolant in it now.

 

HID: congradulations. I am happy for you. Now you can get back to work!

I know you gave us the part number for the bad thermostat, But by chance do you have the # for the good one? I want to change mine out.

What do you think of running a mechanical temp. gauge? I was thinking of this, and was wondering where it pipe it to. Would it be worthwile?

thanks,,,(not meaning to steal your spotlight.) and good luck.
Phillip

 

The new thermostat is Cummins #3967195. The revision date on the box is December 5, 2003. On the passenger side of the engine head you will see a line of large pipe plugs, they are all water. The front pipe plug is a 1/4 npt, if you can get a temp adaptor for that one, it would be the closest to the number one cylinder which is the most prone to overheat from a cooling system malfunction. I don't yet but very soon will have a mechanical gage.

 

I am going to look into that this weekend. I really dont like my temp. gauge on the dash cluster. i want something that is deadnuts, and I dont have to worry about some sender going out.

I am going to order that Thermostat asap, and change it out along with my coolant.

 

Well I ran two loads, it has about 700 miles on it. I like the combination for the work I am doing. Some observations:

I never had the oil change smell, this engine does, figure that.

The EGT's do look cooler with this engine. Cruises with full load on level freeway at 70 to 75 at 850 more or less. Full load does not see over 1000 at 2100 rpm and lower.

On a hard pull I don't see much difference in power, but cruising at 70, it is really smoother and holds the speed much better than before.

If necessary to wind up the gears to near 3000, goes right up, no problem, think it is a little less power at high rpm's

It smokes a lot less on starts and gear changes, really have to get on it to even see it.

There is no visable blow-by.

Mileage is about the same so far, but the engine is not broke in yet.

Overall the engine likes the 1800 to 2200 that I run constantly much better. In that range I think it is much stronger than the stock engine. It is so smooth at 2100 that I had to watch or I would get the speed up and not notice. For those familiar with Atlanta, I always run direct in the 60mph area and up to the top of six flags hill. From there to Birmingham it is in OD, with the 3.55 gears and holds at least 70 with no problem, with a full load of cars. On the hill in direct I only need part throttle for 60 to 62 and can speedup if I want to. I think it is a winner.

Now if I can find the pesky oil leak....

 

late coming to this thread, wha did you do to it?

 

Its a mid-sized truck ISB long block.

 

Sounds like the medium duty cam is the way to go for heavy work. I guess Dodge wanted their diesel to drive more like a gasser. Thanks for the info.

 

Can ya elaborate on that ATS exhaust manifold and the porting job. How much trouble did ya have installing that thing. Soon as mama says I can ima go get me one. I port anything and everything LOL I swear on my dog my little Stilh chain saw has doubled in power since the dremel job

Aaron

 

It is no trouble at all. The easy way is the take the old manifold off, mount the center section to the old manifold backwards, bolt it tight. Use antisieze on the joints and a dead blow hammer, like lead, or a wound leather so as not to hurt the casting, drive them in until they line up with the old manifold. Then it bolt right up like a stock manifold.

I found the machining on the inside of the ports at the head to be rough and restrictive. The gasket design makes porting easy. The gaskets actually fit into the threads of the bolts, so they line up easily, scribe the port line (gasket line) and break out the carbides and go to town. I went in as far as I could reach with the air die grinder and long shaft carbides. Turned out real easy and no problem getting a good port wall.

The manifold also has the bosses for the EGT on both runners, drill them before installing. I recently drilled mine for the pre-turbo boost gage also. Not hooked up yet. the easy way there is to use a fitting for brake flair steel tubing, get a 3 or 4 foot line from the parts store and bend it around how you want it which will take care of the heat problem.

I still had a problem of the rear section allen bolts loosening up and ended up putting on the stock bolts and spacers on the rear section. Much easier to check and tighten if necessary. For the others some are tight to get to, take an allen wrench and grind about half of the short side off, you then have a wrench that is easy to use for the hard to get at bolts. I use anti-sieze on the manifold bolts also.