24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Darn Oil Leak?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #1  
leeboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 4
From: Kamloops B.C. Canada
Darn Oil Leak?

Trying to solve this oil leak problem, its not alot, but im sure my driveway is gonna take a pounding and would like to stop it. If you look at the pictures, ( pic #1) there is that rectangle( with a point) style plate with 10mm bolts. Thats where it seems to always have a drip i see when i wipe things down. I snugged up all them bolts but it didnt do anything. Any ideas where i could look to solve this ? Ends up running or dripping down onto the stabilizer and coating the oil pan pretty bad.







Reply
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #2  
SIXSLUG's Avatar
Registered User
20 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,618
Likes: 168
From: Pacific NW, B'ham, Kalispell MT
Make sure it isn't coming from higher up and showing up at that point on the cover.

If not I guess I would pop that cover off and r/r the gasket with some rtv black and let it sit 24 hours before running it.
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 07:43 PM
  #3  
dg164's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: calgary, alberta
Does the leak get blown around by the fan a lot and makes a big mess? These pictures look like the leak I'm trying to solve as well!
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #4  
leeboy's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 4
From: Kamloops B.C. Canada
Its coating the whole underneath of the truck, seems to all end up on the oil pan and sway bars
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:20 PM
  #5  
dg164's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: calgary, alberta
I know a while back when I first started noticing the leak I was doing some reasearch and found out the possible cause could be the puke bottle being full, and that the stock one does have holes in the top to release gasses, so when it gets full it's starts to leak, the pics you have up kinda looks like around the location of the puke bottle I think So maybe that's the cause? Just another thing to look into thought if let you know!
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #6  
Diesel Dave2's Avatar
Pickin on the wrong admin...
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,568
Likes: 1
Locating oil leaks could be a real pain...What i would go,is a complete wash down of the motor...This will give you a good idea where the leak is located..
Reply
Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:26 PM
  #7  
rebal's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,899
Likes: 3
From: Yuba city Kalifornia
check the hose clamps on the turbo drain and the hose is on right too. the fan could be blowing it all over
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2012 | 02:51 PM
  #8  
dochawken's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
It is probably the inner timing cover leaking, take a power spayer and clean it really good then let it dry...start the truck and let it idle..you will see it is the inner cover. The gaskets and front crank seal are cheap but the **** labor kills you. I was quoted 1k in labor!! But the Cummins diesels are noted for this...Doc
Reply
Old Oct 21, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #9  
SIXSLUG's Avatar
Registered User
20 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,618
Likes: 168
From: Pacific NW, B'ham, Kalispell MT
An old racer trick: Clean it really good, dust it with baby powder and leak will show up fantastically.

JMO, but it looks like its coming from the left side bolt right there in pic #1, which wouldn't make too much sense if the fan is on the right side of the frame.......meaning the oil is going upwind......
Reply
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 10:18 PM
  #10  
stonewalldiesel's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Stonewall Manitoba Canada
I just fixed mine. I have an 2002 and I have had a oil leak for quite some time now. Drove me nuts to try and find it. I finally ripped out the fan and rad shroud so I could see what the hell was going on. I decided to pull the front cover off where the cam gears and injector gears etc. are located. I replaced the seal that fits over the harmonic pulley. Its located on the cover itself. Mine was looking pretty ugly. It was causing some of the leaking. I cleaned the hell out of the cover and used some permatex high grade silicone to seal it up real good. I inspected the ring cover that mounts right to the engine block and it all looked good. I cleaned the hell out of everything and reassembled the fan and everything else. Fired up the truck and took it for a drive. Came back to my shop and there was oil everywhere again. I finally found the problem. Right behind the fan support bracket the ring case was puking oil out. I removed the fan support bracket and took a .008 feeler gauge and poked around between the ring case and the block. sure as **** there was a gap between the cover and the block for about 4-5". Looked like the original sealant have dried up and just disaapeared. I wasn't about to ripp everything apart again. I cleaned the oil and mess up and sprayed evrything down with brake cleaner and dried it all up and I gooped some Permatex along the gap took my feeler blade and pushed some sealant into the gap and then pushed a nice bead all along the ring cover in that area.. Leak is no longer there AT ALL!!!!! I guess this would be a quick fix. I feel that because the oil is just splashing around in there and is not under pressure it should hold up for a good long time.
Reply
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 08:42 AM
  #11  
dochawken's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
That is exactly what I just had done and it cured it...it was quite a job but at least the floor is dry now. I also discovered at the time that my new water pump was leaking and replaced that as well..so no more coolant loss nor oil. Thank you for your excellent reply
Reply
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 08:54 AM
  #12  
stonewalldiesel's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Stonewall Manitoba Canada
No problem, always good to share findings. Now I need to address high speed vibration. I get a bad vibration at 70mph. Coming from the rear of truck. Did ujoints new yoke seal, new diff. oil. Still there. Gotta look at axle bearings now. Pain in the butt. Although I do have 500,000KM's on the old girl.
Reply
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #13  
dg164's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: calgary, alberta
Ya wow tons of great Info! I still haven't pin pointed my leak! Definitely using this info thanks again! Is it a pretty tough job or is it pretty simple for the regular DIYer?
Reply
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 10:22 AM
  #14  
stonewalldiesel's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Stonewall Manitoba Canada
Well, you need to remove wiper washer tank, coolant tank, fan shroud. then remove belt, fan support housing with fan attached. I couldn't get the fan nut loose so I took it out in one piece. Upper rad hose needs to be removed also to get everything out. the inner 10mm bolt is the tough one. I ground a box end wrench so I could get it in the tight space and loosened it. I then removed the top 10mm bolt right above that one and put in a longer bolt to support the assembly. I then backed off the other 2 bolts and then worked on the lower bolt. Once that one was undone then I removed the rest of them. It's a bit of a struggle getting everything out but be patient and it will all come out without removing the rad. After that spray everything with degreaser and clean it well. Have a real good look at the gear case ring right below the water pump that is where my leak was. i missed it the first go around. I focused on the cover and seal. It still needed a new seal but the main leak was between the ring cover and the block. I went back in the next day and loosened off the fan support which gave me enough room to get in and seal it all without having to remove the ring cover. (That's a huge job) Hope this helps you.
Reply
Old Nov 10, 2012 | 06:30 PM
  #15  
dochawken's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by stonewalldiesel
Well, you need to remove wiper washer tank, coolant tank, fan shroud. then remove belt, fan support housing with fan attached. I couldn't get the fan nut loose so I took it out in one piece. Upper rad hose needs to be removed also to get everything out. the inner 10mm bolt is the tough one. I ground a box end wrench so I could get it in the tight space and loosened it. I then removed the top 10mm bolt right above that one and put in a longer bolt to support the assembly. I then backed off the other 2 bolts and then worked on the lower bolt. Once that one was undone then I removed the rest of them. It's a bit of a struggle getting everything out but be patient and it will all come out without removing the rad. After that spray everything with degreaser and clean it well. Have a real good look at the gear case ring right below the water pump that is where my leak was. i missed it the first go around. I focused on the cover and seal. It still needed a new seal but the main leak was between the ring cover and the block. I went back in the next day and loosened off the fan support which gave me enough room to get in and seal it all without having to remove the ring cover. (That's a huge job) Hope this helps you.
I always say I don't have the proper tools...but it actually boils down to no guts..lol The description of the tear down is perfect...you saved yourself 650$ my good man
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Commatoze
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
18
Sep 22, 2005 07:18 PM
belfert
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
2
Apr 27, 2004 05:18 AM
dodgeram
Other
5
Apr 14, 2004 09:28 AM
carl20320
1st Gen. Ram - All Topics
3
Jul 28, 2003 12:21 AM
97CTD
HELP!
7
Oct 28, 2002 08:26 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:17 AM.